Stefan Mohammed Posted February 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 [Minor Update]: So the progress over the last few days has been slow. Even if all the mechanicals are finished as soon as possible, we still have to wait until the tuner comes back from vacation and can tune the car (which is around the 20th). Instead of rushing to finish the small tasks we have to do, we are taking our time and using the oppertunity to work on the car as a chance to lime (lime is a Trinidadian slang for hanging out or socializing - cultural tidbit for the day ). As far as the work goes, we have only done some electrical work, minor modifications to the fuel system and we reinstalled the downpipe (I decided to stick it out with the OEM downpipe for a while until I have sufficient cash flow to facilitate a custom downpipe). As usual, I have pictures of the job below. AEM UEGO sensor attached to stock downpipe (nothing special to see here) AEM UEGO sensor harness and Ultra Racing Strut Brace (with IPD Sticker ) AEM Wideband Failsafe Gauge Wiring something that needs a switched 12v source onto an unused slot on the passenger fuse box Very tired (and dirty) me trying to figure out how to trigger a different MAP on the Haltech using the failsafe feature on the Wideband failsafe. As usual more updates should be coming soon (hopefully major ones at that). Stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 [update]: Things are finally starting to take shape. I got back the modified fuel rail, intake manifold and throttle inlet pipe from the fabricator today. The fuel system is pretty much done and the throttle linkage system is complete except for the accelerator pedal (which is being organized by the middle of next week). I finally got my PCV refresh kit from FCP today and we decided to tackle the PCV job. Remember that oil leak that we suspected was coming from the front crank seal? WRONG. The PCV system was in dire need of a service. The ports on the block were gunked up so badly that they were effectively clogged. The entire block behind the accessory bracket was soaked in oil coming from the PCV to the point where it leaked down the side of the block and looked like a front crank seal blowout from below. With the accessory bracket removed we could easily see that there was no oil on the crank pulley (no front seal blowout). We cleaned up as much of the block as best as we could without using too many harsh chemicals and minimal water since the wires for the ME7 and Haltech are still exposed. We could have done a much better job at getting rid of all the gunk that the block was covered in. Nonetheless the clean-up we did was more than sufficient and considering that the next major phase of the project is a complete engine rebuild and engine bay refresh (carded for late next year), it didn't make much practical sense to linger over making the block look new. This phase of the project is finally entering completion and the car should hopefully be driving by late next week. The remaining work is limited to many small finishing details, the accelerator pedal and, changing the slave cylinder/throwout bearing/rear seal/idler bearing/water pump/timing belt tensioner. Acceptable clean up of engine block Modifying the pressure line for the fuel rail Modified fuel rail with new pressure and return fittings Fahim and Kevin working on the fuel pressure line Random engine bay shot Custom throttle cable bracket Things are finally starting to make sense More major updates coming soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 [update]: Today we finished the fuel system, rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and rerouted most of the vacuum lines. It turns out that my clutch problems were all caused by a master cylinder with blown out seals. I ordered a new master cylinder but it was only when I received it that I realized that there is a left hand drive and a right hand drive version of the master cylinder . Nonetheless, we were able to strip apart both cylinders and swap internals; the clutch works now! We ran the fuel pump for about 4 minutes tonight to make sure that there we no fuel leaks along the system and that the fuel pressure regulator was working and once we were sure that it was leak free, we moved onto the vacuum system. We rerouted most of the accessory vacuum lines to clean up the install. We also did some minor work on other systems but nothing significant enough to talk about. Also I had a visit from my friend today who drives an 850 T5 (one of about 5 in the country!) He has a pretty simple setup (IPD Exhaust, IPD Tune, 15G, Stock Injectors, K&N Air Filter, Greddy Turbo Timer, Bilstein HDs, Slotted+Drilled Rotors. Auto Tranny) but for what it is, his car is fairly impressive and definitely has a lot of potential. He should be upgrading it with a 16T, Blue Injectors, ARD Tune and a M56H just now so I'm very excited to see what he has in store for it! Slight modifications being done to the fuel injector retaining bracket. Finished fuel rail (needs some cleaning up though, to both head and to the rail) AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator mounted in the engine bay. Removing the clutch master cylinder. Kevin found the controls for the electric power steering system!! Reinstalling the clutch master cylinder. My friend's 850 T5 My friend's 850 T5 The engine bay in my friend's 850 T5. Very similar yet very different to my engine bay! Interior in my friend's 850 T5. More updates to come soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Awesome work, glad to see you got the clutch problem figured out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Awesome work, glad to see you got the clutch problem figured out! Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Glad you are making progress on this build. Very cool to see a T5M S80. Right hand drive, at that! Didn't notice that before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted February 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 [Very minor Update] Things are moving slow again but the conversion is nearly complete. All that NEEDS to be done now is the fabrication/installation of a new accelerator pedal, modification of the throttle cable, final integration of the Haltech with the ME7 and factory CANBUS, final wiring of various auxillary sensors into the Haltech, modification of the waterproof breakout box that the Haltech sits, interior/engine bay reassembly and, road tuning. Everything listed are activities that will be done on the day before/day of the final electrical work and pedal installation so there's not much that I have to do up until that point. Nonetheless, I'm still looking at fixing a collapsed subframe bushing, starting some interior reassembly, installation of a catch can and, painting the chassis braces either metallic gray or black. I seriously doubt I'd be posting any more updates until the pedal assembly is done (which might very well be on Saturday). Since the last update we did a few more adjustments to electronics and the DIM though. Here's a pic of the DIM when it was out of its' housing: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DScottM Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 Awesome progress... Only wish i had the time, resources, and know how to make a build like this come together this quickly haha... Keep it up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted February 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 [update]: The engine is running again! So over the past 2 days we mounted back up everything and started the car. We drilled a 3/8" NPT fitting into the manifold to hook up a step-up solenoid for the idle and once that was done, we reassembled the intake (that banjo bolt is a hell to put in!). Once we started we were getting a tonne of smoking piping out of the turbo housing and we were hearing a very strange pulsing sound coming from the turbo at idle (it disappeared when the car was revved). We initially thought a bearing might be cooking and after diagnosing it on VS forums, we thought it might be a torn CBV diaphragm. After routinely inspecting the oil, we saw that the oil was also had a very milky consistency; this coupled with the fact that the exhaust was smelling very sweet led me to believe the headgasket was toast. After further brainstorming we figured out that when I washed the block, I forgot to plug the port for the dipstick tube . So today we did an oil change and started it back up. No more sweet exhaust smell and much less smoke coming from the turbo (I understand that some smoke is normal when the turbo has a little oil in it or the turbo housing/manifold has oil). Despite this success we were still hearing the pulsing sound from the turbo. While the car was on at one point in time, Kevin reached into the bottom of the intake plenum to grab the throttle body and vacuum from the 3/8" NPT port that was previously drilled for the step-up sucked his hand in; the noise stopped instantly. We quickly realized that the vacuum leak raised the idle speed too high to the point where there was wastegate chatter at idle. We plugged the port and the sound instantly went away, success! About a minute after plugging the port the car stalled. When we went inside to start it back up we noticed that the plug we used to block the old low pressure return hose flew out of the hose. We found a bolt, got creative with some thread seal and a clamp and we plugged the port again. We pressure tested the fuel system to ~60 PSI for close to an hour and the line is still tightly sealed. We also trouble-shooted some problems with the brake booster and brake light and after we were finished with that we called it an early night. The fabricator for the pedal has still not collected the pedal (I can't even reach him by telephone right now) so that is still the major setback. In the interim we have very little work to do so we don't plan on working on the car for a while. I still have some pictures (and a video) for your entertainment . Random shot of the engine bay when we were hooking up the vacuum lines and other hoses. And the brake light works! Running very rich! (For now!)Teaser video!!https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151725016563294&set=vb.728018293&type=3&theater Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted March 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 [update] I've been too tired lately between school/business/my personal life and this project to post frequent updates. Since I last posted, we ran into more problems with the fuel system and we had some additional setbacks. One night, we were trying to adjust the fuel pressure on the fuel pressure regulator and we weren't able to adjust it at all; the fuel pressure was just stuck at a constant 60 PSI. We did some brainstorming and quickly realized that something in-tank must be causing some restriction. Fast forward a broken fuel pump locking ring later and a damaged pump head, we found that the restriction was a built in mechanical FPR in-tank. We removed the in-tank FPR restriction valves and installed the spare pump head from the S60 donor... we still had to order a new locking ring to secure the pump though. After all of this we can finally adjust fuel pressure. We also had some other minor problems with the fuel system; the high pressure line running into the fuel rail kinked from too tight a bend radius so we replaced that hose with one with a tighter bend radius. I also ordered a new fuel filter but it seems I got the wrong part, the new fuel filter is shorter than the OEM filter and the fuel lines aren't long enough to connect to it. We have some left over hose from routing the return line so we might very well just lengthen the pump out to the in on the fuel filter and put an end to that problem. We finally got around to installing the catch can, the A/C idler step-up, an IPD HD CBV (I would have gone with the viva performance piston style CBV over the IPD but seeing as I'm changing the turbo to a Garrett GTX series turbo in the not too distant future, I figured that viva CBV was too expensive an upgrade to justify), OEM Round-Style upper engine mount with my old IPD Upper Poly Bushing and, we also fixed the compressor surge problem we had with the Turbo as well (a vacuum source was kinked). Strangely enough, the CBV replacement was pretty easy to do, contrary to what I read on the forums. All 3 CBV bolts cracked very easily with the use of a 1/4" drive spanner with a short 10mm socket and the CBV just popped out (and back in) easily enough. The catch can install was pretty straight forward as well, we just attached the in of the can to the out of the OEM oil/air separator and the out of the can into the turbo inlet pipe. The new round-style upper engine mount was pretty much the hardest bolt on part upgrade we did this entire week. Since the bushing that came with it was brand new we had to blow torch the bushing (only for a few seconds to weaken the rubber but not heat up/weaken the metal) to make the rubber easy enough for a hacksaw blade to cut through and then we cut out the bushing and popped in the IPD poly bush. Then there was another unexpected problem. The original plan for fitting the Haltech PS2000 ECU was to put in in the breakout box for the main engine harness. We chose this mounting location since it was waterproof and since the Haltech could not fit inside the box with the ME7. We would have originally installed the Haltech inside the car but the wiring harness that I bought for the Haltech was too short to be used. We knew that the cover for the breakout box would need to be modified to be taller so it could fit the Haltech but when we test fitted the wiper motor assembly we realized that there was no space to extend the top of this box. After a very long brainstorming session where we contemplated scrapping the short Haltech harness and installing the long harness (which is roughly $350 USD) we finally found a cable route that allowed us to install the Haltech into the car itself. After installing the Haltech we attempted to reinstall the wiper motor, drainage assembly and the wiper cowling. It turns out that the drainage assembly is designed to work over the contours the OEM engine harness and that the extra bulk from the Haltech harness prevented it from fitting properly. It was clear that the drainage assembly could not be easily modified to accommodate this without impacting the effectiveness of the drainage system. A heated discussion with Fahim and Kevin ensued. We were all positive that the harness could not pass through that grommeted area or through the stealthy (yet short) cable route we previously identified without blocking the drain hole. Fahim and Kevin insisted that the most practical way of getting the cable under the wiper cowling was to route the cable along the fender in plain sight and to cut a small hole into the cowling to allow the cable to pass. This would work but it would look hideous to me and I also had some scepticism with how well protected the cable might be with that route. My proposed route was to route the cable along the route of the engine harness (on the side of the engine coolant reservoir/power steering reservoir) into the grommet and let the Haltech cable enter the firewall to the right of the OEM harness to clear the drainage system. While my method would theoretically work the cable was actually too short for it to run like this. Through collective brainstorming, we made a notch into the firewall on the left of the main engine harness grommet to open up the grometted area and we were able to pass both cables around the drain hold in the drain assembly. Unfortunately, all that tugging and pulling on the unfinished Haltech Harness must have disconnected a wire splice on the OEM main harness as the car no longer starts (it started when we initially installed the Haltech into the car but not after we made final adjustments). We did some basic troubleshooting but seeing as the electrical are still incomplete we decided that that job was best left in the hands of an electrician. After consulting with the tuner, we were assured that the problem with the wiring harness is most probably a minor problem as the Haltech’s fault indicator is not active and some other functionalities in the Haltech (the fuel pump prime function for example) are still active. The electrician is also proving to be quite a problem himself. When I was searching for an electrician, he was the only one who was willing to wire a standalone into a Volvo. He was supposed to wire the car earlier this week and then cancelled the appointment at the last minute due to an emergency. He rescheduled to come on Friday and he failed to show up again; this time his excuse was that he had the virus. I am of the very strong opinion that he is unwilling to finish the job as he had some difficulties wiring the car on the first day and he already collected half of his pay. He also fails to answer his phone and only calls me when he is about to cancel or when I contact him through multiple channels (IM, Email, Text Messaging and voicemails). As far as the pedal assembly goes, I also had major problems getting a fabricator to do the job for me. I went through 4 different fabricators until I found one who was willing to get the job done. He took the pedal on Wednesday and it should be finished on Saturday. He will need to install it himself as there are still some final adjustments to be made on the car itself. Right now the only setback before the car can be tuned is the electrician and the pedal. With the pedal nearing completion I just have to worry about the electrician. While the car can technically drive as it is (once the problem we created when moving the Haltech is fixed that is), many things are still incomplete electrically speaking. The radiator fan, turn signals, reverse lights, high beams, low beams, washer fluid spray, driver/passenger power windows, passenger side mirror adjust, a/c compressor trigger, information dial/read button on indicator stalk, horn, tachometer and, water temperature gauge all do not work. I’ll update the thread as soon as progress is made with the electrical system. Kevin planking (routing wires into the interior car) ontop of my engine bay! Still routing Haltech Cables Haltech and OEM cables in the breakout box Haltech tucked in to the rear/side of the CEM Fahim positioning the Haltech IPD Uprated CBV IPD Uprated CBV Old and new/wrong fuel filter. We might just get it to work though. Nothing too dificultFahim climbing into the engine bay to get better access to the wastegate pushrod so we could adjust it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted March 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 Old square-style/worn-out upper engine mount next to the new round style upper engine mount with my used, low-mileage IPD poly bushing. New round-style upper engine mount with IPD poly bushing installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 [update] The electrician bailed out on us. We could not contact him for two weeks and when we finally got through to him he made an appoinment and never showed up. After trying to contact him by telephone/text/email/whatsapp/voicemail/etc we gave up and we realized that he's not coming back to finish the job. I finally got a replacement electrician for the job so the new date to complete the electrical work is the 19th of this month. The electrician is coincidentally the fabricator who did the accelerator pedal for me. That reminds me, the pedal assembly is complete! The throttle response is pretty amazing coming from a fly-by-wire throttle but what's more amazing is the throttle sensitivity; what used to result in 1200RPM with the B6294S gives me around 2500RPM on this TB. That's what you get from having a big throttle body I guess. The throttle would definitely take some time to get used to though, it requires a lot more effort to move the throttle pedal, the throttle pedal has a sort of grating feel to it and the sensitivity and response is so much more than what I'm accustomed to. In other news some interior parts are back in and we are putting things back together in the engine bay. The door has also been properly reinstalled/straightened. This is a list of things that needs to be done when the electrician comes to finish the job: Repair/Integration of: Driver’s side power window Sunroof Reverse Lights High Beam Flash High Beam ON/OFF Toggle Driver’s side headlight parklight Driver’s side side-marker light Indicators/Hazard Lights ABS Warning Light ON Horn Approach Lights Wiring of: A/C Compressor Trigger CVVT Solenoid Control Haltech Air Temperature Sensor Engine Bay Cooling Fan Idle Control Solenoid AEM Wideband Failsafe Ground Trigger Staged Shift Lights Launch Style 2-Step Launch Control/Anti-Lag Turbo Timer My other life committments haven't allowed me to update this thread as activiely as I would like too. As soon as some major progess is made on the car (i.e. the car starts to drive) then I'll make sure to post a lengthy update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coloradov70xc Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 So very excited and jealous of this build!! I Talked to you a few nights ago in the chat room and the progress you have made in the last week or two astounds me. Excited to see her finally done!! This is what makes volvo drivers, volvo drivers for life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted March 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 So very excited and jealous of this build!! I Talked to you a few nights ago in the chat room and the progress you have made in the last week or two astounds me. Excited to see her finally done!! This is what makes volvo drivers, volvo drivers for life. Hey Colorado!! I definitely remember you and your Swedish Racing Green (Polestar Blue) rims!!! It's definitely not complete as yet but it's pretty close! Thanks for support, I hope I could have a video of it driving soon enough so you could see what she's really like! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmzoller Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Fabulous! Glad to see some awesome updates! (: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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