Aequitas_Veritas Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 First, you will need a T55 torx with a 3/4 inch drive and a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar, and other standard tools. You also need a press, as well as this kit: 1. First things first, as with any timing belt job, jack the front end up, pull off the passenger wheel. Lift the cover for the crankshaft bolt. Hold it open with needle nose vice grips. Take off the side timing belt cover. Crank the engine over to TDC (Top Dead Center). 2. Remove everything covering the camshafts on the side closest to the battery. This is usually a cap you have to replace on the intake side, as well as a crank position sensor on the exhaust side. On my engine I removed the distributor I installed when I swapped it to my 850, as well as the Crank Position Sensor. 3. Install the cam locking tool across the back of the cams. Remove starter and cap beneath the starter on the side of the engine under the intake manifold. Slide the cam lock tool into the hole beneath the cap and make sure it bottoms out. If it doesn't, crank the engine a bit further clockwise and push the tool all the way in. Crank the engine counterclockwise just barely until it stops against this tool. Crank the engine counterclockwise just barely until it stops against this tool. 4. Now that everything is locked in place, take the timing belt off. For a video version of the above steps refer to IPD here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Great write up. I just thought I would mention how I got my cam seals in. I just used the old seal as a drift and didn't use any additional sealant. Worked well and hasn't leaked at all, on top of that it saved me a wee amount of cash. Also with that kit that you have pictured I found it necessary to shave the bolts that hold the cams in just a bit. Out of the box they didn't tighten down the cam holder on the back of the cam enough. The holder slipped while torquing the cam wheel and ended up taking a small piece of the cam out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aequitas_Veritas Posted March 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 Also with that kit that you have pictured I found it necessary to shave the bolts that hold the cams in just a bit. Out of the box they didn't tighten down the cam holder on the back of the cam enough. The holder slipped while torquing the cam wheel and ended up taking a small piece of the cam out. Huh, I did not have this problem with my kit, But your right, the bolt on the cam holder tool has to be tight because of how hard you have to crank down the cam bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Shadow Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 attempting this right now...on dinner break with the wife and kids. notes so far. *Since i have dual VVT and two sensors one for each cam on the rear of engine. i dont need a cap, do need however, four seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aequitas_Veritas Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Oh ok, I wasnt sure if there was a CPS on the intake cam with dual VVT cause I have only done it to my engine that had the seal because of the distributer I installed. . On the S60 cam seal job I did on my friends car that had a cap over the intake cam and single VVT I installed both a seal AND the cap for double protection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Shadow Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Just wanted to chime in and say thanks paul for the write up. I was confused when i got to #9 Instead of removing the hub from the gear. I removed the belt, then checked how the vvt hub worked. then i understood what you meant by the vvt hub play. once i understood that. i made sure my cams were locked marked off the timing mark. release the intake hub swapped seals then when i put it back. i didnt tighten it down yet, just snug then made sure it had the same play as before and lined up the marks tighten them down repeated it with the exhaust cam. and yes in my 05 the wire harness is in the way also for the rear vvt. i didnt want to remove the hub from the cam gear. this will really have messed me up. Like paul said, once you do it, its cake walk. it took me 4 hours to do. i removed the hub a few times just to make sure. cranked it over by hand a few times. first time it didnt line up. i feel like i accomplished alot today. this job was quoted $450 to do, plus parts. i thought it was high. ima cheap bastard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Sounds like you got the hang of it Steve. Sorry you didn't see the video in time, I sent it to Chuck but he probably didn't have time to get it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pierremcalpine Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Hi, Great write up and comments, fellas! I'm preparing to do mine (2003 V40 with one VVT gear and one non-VVT). The only real difference that I'm seeing based on a read of the VIDA instructions for my vehicle is that they call for the use of a counter hold (999 5199 see below) when untightening and tightening the non-VVT hub. I think I understand why this is required (so that you don't put too much torque on the cam itself) but can quite figure out a) whether it is really required and why it's not required for the VVT hub. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Hi, Great write up and comments, fellas! I'm preparing to do mine (2003 V40 with one VVT gear and one non-VVT). The only real difference that I'm seeing based on a read of the VIDA instructions for my vehicle is that they call for the use of a counter hold (999 5199 see below) when untightening and tightening the non-VVT hub. I think I understand why this is required (so that you don't put too much torque on the cam itself) but can quite figure out a) whether it is really required and why it's not required for the VVT hub. Any thoughts? You will need to lock the cams from the rear anyway, so the counter hold isn't needed to hold the non-VVT gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pierremcalpine Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Thanks, Volvo5.0! I wondered about that. Much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PsychoBeano Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 Bump it up! How did you all shave down the bolt for the cam locking tool? Metal file be fine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 I have read that you should not use any sealer between the cam seal and the engine block, but I’ve also read that you should. I had the best luck with using a hardening gasket maker . I put a thin layer around the outside of the seal, waited a few min for it to get tacky (per the instructions) and then pressed it in with my press. DO NOT TRY AND JUST PUSH IN THE SEAL WITHOUT USING A PRESS, you won't get it even, and if you press it too far or the slightest bit crooked it is going to leak. So I pressed the cam seals down into place just to the bottom of the divot. Feel around the outside of the seal to make sure the depth is even all the way around the outside of the cam seal. I lube the outside of the seals with anaerobic sealant, then gently rock it into the bore until it stops. Seems very easy - just push the seal in evenly until it doesn't go in anymore. Never had a leak using this procedure (pushing them in all the way) using OE seals. The anaerobic sealant acts as a lubricant so the seals slide in super easy, and once it dries the seal is fused into place pretty well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kampman Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 If you need a cheap (as in free) drift, the lip on the inside of a '99+ cam sensor cover is the perfect size to drive in the front seals. A few taps in the middle of the cover with a hammer is all it takes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIZIO AKA 1 HND MEC Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 This should be PINNED, with so many ppl swapping over to RN engines!!! GREAT GREAT INFO, thanks for sharing !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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