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Nivomat Equipped 4Wd Wagon - Suspension Refresh Option?


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Very nice work, and thanks for including such a thorough write-up

Did you take measurements of the replacement shock? I'm interested in the overall length of the shock, the inside diameter of the mounting hole at the end, and the length of that opening. Thanks!

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I didn't measure it. At free length they are almost identical in length as you can see in the picture...

the mounting hole is smaller than the nivomat's top tube diameter but slightly bigger than the replacement shock diameter.

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Good write up, you should post it on v70R.com in the suspension section.

One thing could you measure the coil wire thickness? It looks a lot larger then the Nivo coil. Nivo coil is 12mm IIRC and Ohlin coils are 13.5mm, if it's larger then the Ohlins I'd get them at cut them down to match my lowered suspension.

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yEbh4pS.jpg

I put on the front springs of a FWD 850 here today and damn it's probably raking too far forward. I think it will be alright if I put the spare wheel back into the trunk. But yeah this is for your reference what the FWD front springs will do to your AWD 850 / V70... The finger gap are almost equal when you measure it but the car is most definitely unnaturally raking forward.

Oh yes I bought clear corners for the front from IPD too hehe.

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That needs to be one heavy spare to leave that out. The springs might settle down after some time, but it's not going to be that much. Are the front springs lowering spring?

You need to cut the rear springs a coil or 2, maybe even make some Nivo spacers to keep the shocks from bottoming out.

Thats one of the reasons I was asking for the coil measurement, since it's a stiffer spring it's not going to compress as easy as the Nivo spring. I know you said they look the same but as you can see they aren't and can't be if they were 12mm they'd be the same as Nivo springs so the have to be larger then that.

So how is the ride with these spring and shocks? Does it have any bounce? Like over hard dips in the road?

BTW the "finger method" of measurement is fairly inaccurate, you should try using a ruler or tape measure to determine drop.

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The swap itself is perfect if you didn't muck about and used the existing front springs of an AWD 855 / V70 for the front suspension as well. I don't know if the front springs are lowering springs they just came out of a junkyard 850 sedan without wheels. The theory is that it's now sitting even lower than a FWD 850 because the front has added weight of a bevel gear gearbox.

Ride is compliant and Euro like and I am very satisfied with that. The rake is my only concern. But the it looks pretty awesome from a 3/4 view lol.

I'm going to measure it out when I have time going to a track day with my other car tomorrow gotta rush to make that track-worthy.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Someone was asking me how thick the spring coil is and since I grabbed it out today to cut a coil it's 13mm or 1/2" thick. Hope that helps.

Ride is excellent no bounce this is a solid combo for you guys with dying/dead nivos out there.

SMW0swl.jpg

by cutting exactly 1 coil off the rear you can match the front height nicely.

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  • 1 year later...

Could you not use XC suspension on the 850 AWD and V70 AWDs? Springs and Shocks, would the ride height be HIGHER? Are the XCs using Nivomats as well :( (please say no!)

Nice writeup though! I'm getting MEGA wagon-bounce in my 97 850 AWD when I go over bumps and dips in the road..... makes me feel like I'm ridin a lo-lo 63 Cadi on bags....... then I realize, it's a Volvo lol

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Could you not use XC suspension on the 850 AWD and V70 AWDs? Springs and Shocks, would the ride height be HIGHER? Are the XCs using Nivomats as well :( (please say no!)

Nice writeup though! I'm getting MEGA wagon-bounce in my 97 850 AWD when I go over bumps and dips in the road..... makes me feel like I'm ridin a lo-lo 63 Cadi on bags....... then I realize, it's a Volvo lol

All XC's have Nivomats, and ride higher than the base AWD models.

OP said "The theory is that it's now sitting even lower than a FWD 850 because the front has added weight of a bevel gear gearbox."

That is unsprung weight in the subframe - that wouldn't affect ride height.

Correction below :)

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All XC's have Nivomats, and ride higher than the base AWD models.

OP said "The theory is that it's now sitting even lower than a FWD 850 because the front has added weight of a bevel gear gearbox."

That is unsprung weight in the subframe - that wouldn't affect ride height.

You have that last part backwards. Anything supported by the suspension (ie, body, engine, drivetrain, etc) is sprung weight. Hubs, wheels and brakes are unsprung weight because they are outside the suspension. That is part of why saving a couple pounds with a set of 2-piece rotors or forged wheels makes a noticeable tactile change in how the car responds whereas eliminating the same amount of weight (a few pounds) inside the body isn't noticed as easily. Technically, half the weight of the shock absorber is unsprung weight.

Granted, both those examples are rotational weight as well as unsprung weight, so any possible weight savings in wheels and brake rotors are so crucial to race teams.

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  • 2 months later...

So I'm on the fence here about what to do. First gotta start by saying this is an amazing write up! You da man :D

I understand that the Nivomats basically support the car up and the springs help a bit but that when the Nivo's fail they sag because the Nivo's don't support anymore, and the springs aren't strong enough to hold the car UP anymore (hence the 'Nivomat Sag'). Is this correct?

Continuing on.... in my 850 AWD the previous owner replaced the Nivomats with some sort of Air Shock system. I don't quite have a sagging rear end like cars with failed Nivomats do, but it BOUNCES like no other! I'm guessing the stock springs are still in there, with these air shocks.

so now my options:

1. Replace the Air shocks AND Springs with the aforementioned parts

2. Replace ONLY the Springs and continue using the Air Shocks

3. Do nothing and hate driving my car lol

Clearly, #3 is not a feasible option.... Do you think that replacing JUST springs would be strong enough to support the car up AND not bounce so much or do I need to have strong dampening within the shock to remove the bounce on the highway and over bumps. It's to the point where I go over speed bumps SLOWLY and it bottoms out the rear end when it comes down.....

PS. not trying to hijack thread but I feel its on topic with this suspension refresh and thus wanted to continue the convo for future "bouncy wagon owners" who come across this thread.... (to the Mods)

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The bounce is going to be because whatever shocks you have are crap & no longer damping anything. You need to replace the shocks, and maybe the springs, depending on what shock you go with.

You should check your tires too - bad shocks will typically cause a 'cupping' effect on the outer thread, so you may need tires if the situation has been ongoing.

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