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!help! Boost Goes Dead At 20Psi. Car Becomes An N/a


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After your response I have to agree with fwdGTP, I bet its that 90deg hose. Even without the air filter, there could be lots of vacuum in that pipe, especially with how much air that 20G is flowing. Is is a nice 5 ply piece with >5mm wall thickness? or one of the cheaper 2 or 3 ply pieces?

Are you still running a stock airbox?

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The BOV was replaced but both were HKS BOV's. For the boost to go away so fast you would think it would have to exit from something like a BOV but that thing does not whistle when this happens.

don't the BOV release the pressure only when the throttle is close like in between shift? in your case your throttle plate is still partially open.

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Check for timing advance at WOT

38 deg

I know im not at the same level of boost but, my car was doing something similar and it was an intercooler hose collapsing.

I'll be checking that tomorrow. I think I will take the hood off and put a gopro on the windshield to get an overview of the engine.

don't the BOV release the pressure only when the throttle is close like in between shift? in your case your throttle plate is still partially open.

Fully open and I hold it open in the video to show what its doing.

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Only reason timing is so high is because it's down in a load range that would normally be for cruising. Has to be some type of collapse causing this, because there is almost certainly no leak of any sort, since afr and timing reflect that everything is working correctly at least for that "boost" level.

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It's something mechanical stopping the turbo from spinning, I think. Can you hear the turbo spinning when this happens?

The only time you would ever see 0 boost at WOT is if either the rotating assembly of the turbo becomes seized, or if a coupler completely separates or blows off. You could be pulling the intake hose shut, but it does not sound likely based on your description of your setup.

Tears in couplers that open at a specific boost level will not completely evacuate the pressure from the intake tract, just partially bleed it off. To lose that much volume of air would likely make the car instantly stall as well, since it's MAF-based injection. The wastegate opening all the way would also not drop the boost completely to 0.

I would suggest checking your turbo for endplay and sideplay, and making sure there are no foreign objects in front of the compressor housing.

I will say that the collapse theory can hold some water if you really can easily collapse a hose by hand. If you cannot do this, I doubt that's what is happening.

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Bet its that damn upper intercooler hose.

It can't be. That hose is pressurized. The only time intercooler piping will collapse is on throttle tip in, when there is slight vacuum in the intercooler piping before the turbo has time to start pumping.

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Sounds like it has to be some type of intake restriction stalling out the compressor. Literally only explanation I can think of.

After your response I have to agree with fwdGTP, I bet its that 90deg hose.

Points to fwdGTP and RZT5. See if you can spot it.... I wont say anything else other than this video also identified a failed strut tower.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsykLjWR_xQ

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Holy Crap!! My car is BACK BABY!!!

Lessons learned:

1. Cheap low-ply Silicone hoses are just that

2. Bigger turbos require a lot of intake air, a lot. It was not easy to push in that hose, it was sucking pretty hard to do that.

3. The Snabb intake is worth it

4. The stock MAF is probably not big enough to handle the volume required.

5. The stock MAF is probably a bottleneck

6. You must have a free flowing intake filter system. It would be nice to know what the CFM is at WOT

Hope everyone learned from this one. I did.

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