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Huge Mistake? So I Bought This '92 244...


GLT_as_charged

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So I bought a 240. Unremarkable. Except this one was owned by a guy who wanted to go low, and low did he go.

post-46250-0-86949300-1378870170_thumb.j

So, Issue #1, the Biggie:

This isn't some trick suspension setup with coilovers, oh no. My man chopped the springs.

So beyond absolutely ruin the struts, miles and miles of this setup has actually bent the driver-side shock tower slightly up and into the engine bay, causing the hood to raise at that corner by maybe an inch or less. This is really the only visually perceptible symptom, it would probably take precise measurements to notice from the engine bay with the hood up. The few times I've driven the car it drives fine if you ignore the horrible crashing and bouncing. Steering turns lock to lock with no rubbing or noise and the hood closes.

So my question is: what would it be like to replace the whole tower?

Secondary question: would it be better just to leave and replace only the struts and springs since this will be a lowly non-performance daily?

Issue #2:

Simpler. Rear brake lights are not working. What fuses/relays control these?

Issue #3:

The wipers are not working. Owner told me it was mechanical rather than electrical. Nothing at all happens when I flip the switch. No movement or noise as far as I can tell. What's goin' on and whaddoo I do.

Thanks.

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I agree that Turbobricks is the place to go, this forum has been virtually dead for years.

Re #1:

Are you sure that the strut tower is pushing up the hood? It looks to my eye that the hood hinge just needs to be adjusted down, this is a very common issue. For adjusting see this: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=442656&postcount=17

Otherwise I doubt you'd need to replace the tower, any competent body shop should be able to fix it quickly. Does look like you will need new springs and cartridges, don't want to cut the springs much past 1.5 coils, that car looks more like 3+ coils.

Re #2:

First check fuse #7, should be 12v+ at both sides of the fuse. Next test the brake light switch just above the brake pedal. If you can get power to both terminals of the brake light switch with the pedal pressed, then follow this for everything downstream of that:

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=1959517&postcount=5

Re #3:

The wiper motor is a permanent magnet type, it has two large magnets glued to the inside of the round canister like part. Often the glue fails and the magnets shift out of position. It's pretty easy to pull that off and clean it really well, then epoxy them back in place. Otherwise check it electrically, for reference see: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=440943&postcount=3

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