86 Volvo 244 Gl No Start

[The Big Tuna]

so having some issues with the sisters car, and don't have time to troubleshoot this damn thing

short bullet points

• Replaced external fuel pump and filter
• Replaced internal fuel pump
• Replaced fuel pump relay

When hot wiring the fuses the pumps work. when the car died it did it suddenly and no lights came on. She could crank the engine like now but no starting. It was on a hot day as well… fuel pumps are not making noise as of now when keys are in secondary position.

sure im missing things, but any help would be greatful

thanks

spence

[Three Fat Tigers]

A few quick tests:

1) Unplug the MAF (AMM) sensor and see if there is any change. Should start if the sensor is bad, but may not want to run very well; and if so, try plugging the sensor in several times (ignition off) as it may have been a weak connection.

2) Try some starting fluid or carb cleaner. For starting fluid, pop open the top of the air box and spray the starting fluid into the intake hose, for carb cleaner, pull off any vacuum line off the intake manifold in and spray into that nipple. Best to have someone else to crank the engine while you do this. If the car tries to start, at least you know the odds are that the ignition and valve timing (timing belt) are ok and the fuel system is suspect. You can actually run the engine on the spray long enough to be sure it's fine.

3) Pop open the oil filler cap and make sure the camshaft is rotating while cranking. This only tells you if the belt is broken or not, but if not, it might still have skipped too many teeth to allow the car to start. Otherwise pop the distributor cap off, rotate the crank till the rotor is pointing at the #1 wire poisition, the first two cam lobes should be pointing up in a V formation.

Otherwise:

Check for fuel and spark: after cranking for a while, pull an spark plug and see if it's wet with fuel. Place plug into any spark plug wire, ground the plug to the engine/body and check for spark while cranking. If nothing, check again only plug the spark plug wire directly into the ignition coil (this bypasses a possible bad cap and or rotor). If still nothing, odds are the hall sensor in the distributor is at fault; inspect the wiring to the distributor, it's known to deteriorate. Make sure the terminals at the coil are in good order and that between the (+) terminal, (aka #15, blue wire) and the body you see full battery voltage with the ignition on (if not, the ignition switch might be bad). Make sure the ground points at the bolts for the fuel rail are in good order. There are tests that can be done on the hall sensor, I just don't remember them off the top of my head, will be late tomorrow before I can look it up.

If you find normal spark, regular and white-blue-ish, and evidence of raw fuel at the plugs or smell of fuel at the exhaust pipe after cranking for a while, odds are the timing belt had jumped several teeth. Where the plugs are dry or no smell of unburned fuel, odds are there is some sort of harness or connector failure and you just have to take an wiring diagram and multi meter and go over pretty much everything.

Might also check the IAC (idle air control) valve hoses, make sure they haven't popped off the intake, especially the one that connects on the underside of the manifold, although I might be thinking of K-jet re that connection, too tired to think.