boxpin Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 I have decided to start build#2. I have already been through one engine and it ran great then decided to die. Most likely because I beat it up. I am starting over after cracking all my rings. Assuming it was due to detonation, at least thats the only reason I can think this would happen. So out the engine came and off to get a face lift. Since I love pictures I am just going to make this picture heaven. I will post pictures as things advance. Out with the old. This was the carnage from the rings breaking. So whats new. Well this time I decided to go with a different clutch, lighten the flywheel and Wiseco pistons. To prep for or maybe just as a precaution we shimmed the block. Of course this was done before boring. Getting punched. /URL] Flywheel getting gutted. Had some vents added to the valve cover Sachs 707 mated up to the lightened flywheel Flywheel cut and balanced. Block is now home and assembly begins Shimmed. Some interesting things we found out about this grove. I will add additional pictures later. Crank balanced with the flywheel and polished. The finished flywheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Looks good. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tech Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Following for updates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fwdGTP Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Yeee, nice, I want to make a motor, you know an engine builder/machine shop familiar with this platform? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJGreenBudd Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Nice, what size did the bore end up after boring? Did you have any headwork done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Cool build. What's the end power goal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIZIO AKA 1 HND MEC Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 When you do the shim work did you consider some darts around the cylinders? How much you take out of the flywheel 4-5lb? Love your detailed pictures, thanks for sharing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Nice! Did you bend the ends of the tabs on an angle so they don't create a restriction/barrier in the coolant passage? Nice, what size did the bore end up after boring? Did you have any headwork done? The bore size would depend on the pistons he bought - Wiseco offers a specific range. If it's a 2.3L block, I would assume 81.5 bore, as that is the piston size they offer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Nice, what size did the bore end up after boring? Did you have any headwork done? 81.5 Cool build. What's the end power goal? The nice part is that I hit 342whp on broken rings so who knows were this will end up. No predictions, just see what happens. When you do the shim work did you consider some darts around the cylinders? How much you take out of the flywheel 4-5lb? Love your detailed pictures, thanks for sharing! The block is done, no darts. 4 lbs came off the flywheel. Nice! Did you bend the ends of the tabs on an angle so they don't create a restriction/barrier in the coolant passage? We left gaps on both ends of the shims so coolant can pass. Also kept them straight on purpose in the event that they walk they will hit either side of the block. They are pressed in there and also trimmed at the bottom to fit into the bottom section of the slice. The tops are recessed enough for the head gasket to bite into the slice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Info on shimming. When we were preparing to shim the slots we did some measurements and found that the center of the slot was deeper than the sides. It tapered out towards the edges. I dont know how the slot was cut but can say that it appears to have been done by a circular blade straight down into the section. I dont know if it really matters all that much but if your determined to fill the slot completely then you would need to make some mods to the shim itself. This is what I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 What's the purpose of shimming? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Info on shimming. When we were preparing to shim the slots we did some measurements and found that the center of the slot was deeper than the sides. It tapered out towards the edges. I dont know how the slot was cut but can say that it appears to have been done by a circular blade straight down into the section. I dont know if it really matters all that much but if your determined to fill the slot completely then you would need to make some mods to the shim itself. This is what I did. Nice, but a bit over-complicated there...for 14$ = 2 feeler gauges from Harbor Freight and you can shim the block in a 20 min process ...if you notice below ,even with certain style HG bite as some will claim that is needed they get pressed in ... and they start at the top, where the crack would originate...not 2mm below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrispy_T Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Well, VS Legend, even leaving that little bit of space at the top, the shims still create a great deal of strength in that area. There's less area susceptible to flex, which is what causes that crack to form in the first place. While you are correct that shimming to the top is stronger, having that small place for the HG to bite into is probably the lesser of two evils. It'll be less likely to blow the gasket under very high cylinder pressures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oblark Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 I just two pieces of stainless shimming steel and bent the ends over to stop them from slidding out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Nice, but a bit over-complicated there...for 14$ = 2 feeler gauges from Harbor Freight and you can shim the block in a 20 min process ...if you notice below ,even with certain style HG bite as some will claim that is needed they get pressed in and they start at the top, where the crack would originate...not 2mm below. Worry not. I didnt spend any time overthinking this. It took longer to draw that picture. We measured and said, "Well look at that". Got the correct gap needed, ground it down and pounded them in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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