manoduv Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Hello, I did a search but can't seem to find much info on the junction replacing. I bought new hoses and this part: http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-heater-hose-coupling-850-c70-s70-v70 in order to skip dealing with the brittle plastic. This part looks to connect to the heater core behind the firewall, is this still doable from the engine bay? Or do I need to go about it as if I were removing the heater core through the interior of the car? Thanks for any info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meat Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 http://www.___.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=40547 Probably couldn't find it because that guy called it a coupling valve, which some do. I also call it the junction and it took me forever to find that about a month ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manoduv Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 http://www.___.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=40547 Probably couldn't find it because that guy called it a coupling valve, which some do. I also call it the junction and it took me forever to find that about a month ago. Ah, thanks. So you went the long way with the heater core removed as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 You must remove the heater core, there is no other way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meat Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 I'm about to find out right now, headed to the u-pull to get this piece for replacement. I could have sworn I read somewhere about just loosening the heater core and sliding it back far enough out of the way. We'll see, I'll let you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 I could have sworn I read somewhere about just loosening the heater core and sliding it back far enough out of the way. That's right, the heater core doesn't have to come completely out. Even if it did it's probably one of the easiest heater cores you will ever remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 I wouldn't bother with a used one, they get brittle! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 I'm about to find out right now, headed to the u-pull to get this piece for replacement. I could have sworn I read somewhere about just loosening the heater core and sliding it back far enough out of the way. We'll see, I'll let you know. Sure. To me, this is the same as removing the heater core. It's really easy, don't over think it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meat Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 I've not so much as looked behind the dash on this car before. But it was super easy, took me 45 minutes. I swapped the engine out a while back (and still have never looked behind the dash) and snapped one of the silly little necks in the firewall in the process. I thought it was a bad design until today, Just a couple of screws in the side of the heater core housing and those hoses (and optionally, the heater core) are out. The heater hoses in the engine bay are a snap, then pop the two torx screws out, remove the cover and go back under the dash to finagle it out. Honestly, the worst part was getting it out from between the heater core case and the gas pedal, with the cable off it would be much easier. One thing to note, the clips are not round, they have flat notches in them, so they only go in and out one way. Don't twist them. The ones in the cabin are more prominent, but it goes for the heater hose clips as well. Also.. I paid $4 for it. (and the clerk called it a heater control valve, so that's 3 names. Although I believe that's incorrect, as it doesn't control anything.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meat Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Keaton85 was right, the one I got had a hairline crack on the inside of the heater hose connector. However, I also decided I was right in that it's a silly design. So I took all 4 connectors off, which makes a great little bracket. I ran 2 pieces of actual rubber heater hose through each hole and clamped them onto the heater hoses, then pulled those through and clamped them to the heater core. No leaks, free and if it ever does leak, it's $1 to replace and takes 20 minutes with no need to remove anything but the hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 I no longer replace those couplers anymore, I also only go the standard 5/8 heater hose route now when the coupler breaks or starts leaking at the o-rings. Which is inevitable. Once and done, cheap (but a lot more than $1 lol) and hassle free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meat Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Therein lies the trick. Buy hose in spools. I have a 25' spool of heater hose and a 50' spool of vacuum hose. It's a beautiful thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 That's great advice but well then you spent like $25 or whatever, not $1. Were the hose clamps free or did somebody pay you to use some? Calls to mind the posts that say "repair your car for $4.49" and then describe a method that uses $60 in tools that most people may not have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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