Mesoam Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 did you loose all of your mechanical skills recently? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted October 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 did you loose all of your mechanical skills recently? Did I ever have any? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashvolvo Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 Do I have to bleed the brakes? And if so could I just do that one side or do I have to do all 4 corners? I have ATE Blue fluid and that was done a couple years ago. If the last time you did it was a couple of years ago, I'd be doing it again for sure. Doesnt take long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBrick Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 invest in a power bleeder...I just had to do mine TWICE this weekend (that long brake leak thread!), and it was so easy. It took longer to go out and buy the brake fluid then to bleed all four. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Dave, If you are quick about it you can get away with just the one. Tip: You'll have to spin the caliper onto the line since the other end of the line will be attached to the solid brake line and won't spin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lcc014 Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 invest in a power bleeder...I just had to do mine TWICE this weekend (that long brake leak thread!), and it was so easy. It took longer to go out and buy the brake fluid then to bleed all four. When using power bleeder, will it hold the pressure while we go around to take off all tires ? Or we have to re-pump the bleeder again for each wheel ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBrick Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 i pump it up to 20 psi....after bleeding one wheel, it usually only goes down to 18psi, so I pump it back up. It's good to pump after each wheel to maintain pressure. Also make sure you pour an entire big can of brake fluid in. You don't have to take off wheels...I can reach the rear bleed screws with the car on the ground, and the fronts I just jack up one side at a time and crawl under from the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy. Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 I pump it to 15psi and just check it every time I bleed the brakes. if it goes below 15, then I just pump it up again. I second the pouring of a whole can in there, never want the reservoir to go dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lcc014 Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Thanks for the information. One more question about using power bleeding. Do we need to start the car to use power bleeder ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBrick Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 not at all, you don't have to start the car. Pour an entire can (1 quart) of Dot4 synthetic brake fluid in there, secure cap on master cylinder, pump to 15-20psi, and bleed away. One trick - when you're done, tilt the power bleeder on it's side (so the inside feed tube is on top, sucking air) and SLOWLY release the pressure by unscrewing the power bleeder top (never the connection on the master cylinder). This will suck the extra fluid back into the power bleeder, and not leave your master cylinder overfilled. Then simply pour the leftover brake fluid back into your quart. If you want to do a really good flush (first time, or previous brake fluid looks nasty), you may want to pour 2 qts into the canister just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lcc014 Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 not at all, you don't have to start the car. Pour an entire can (1 quart) of Dot4 synthetic brake fluid in there, secure cap on master cylinder, pump to 15-20psi, and bleed away. One trick - when you're done, tilt the power bleeder on it's side (so the inside feed tube is on top, sucking air) and SLOWLY release the pressure by unscrewing the power bleeder top (never the connection on the master cylinder). This will suck the extra fluid back into the power bleeder, and not leave your master cylinder overfilled. Then simply pour the leftover brake fluid back into your quart. If you want to do a really good flush (first time, or previous brake fluid looks nasty), you may want to pour 2 qts into the canister just in case. Thanks for the information and great tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted October 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Dave, If you are quick about it you can get away with just the one. Tip: You'll have to spin the caliper onto the line since the other end of the line will be attached to the solid brake line and won't spin. Awesome info here. I was wondering this. Since this is not my DD I am going to replace the caliper without bleeding to see how that goes. I am going to seal off the line as fast as possible to ensure minimal air and leakage of fluid. If I find it to be spongy I am going to buy a Motive power bleeder. Also the NAPA remfb caliper I got is an ATE VOLVO caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NEU Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 At the minimum you are going to have to bleed the caliper, not the whole line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsterns Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 New or Rebuilt calipers do not come filled with any fluid other than what may be left behind from pressure testing prior to sale. You will need to bleed the caliper unless you want to push air into it the first time you press on the brake, causing you a much more lengthy bleeding experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted October 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 New or Rebuilt calipers do not come filled with any fluid other than what may be left behind from pressure testing prior to sale. You will need to bleed the caliper unless you want to push air into it the first time you press on the brake, causing you a much more lengthy bleeding experience. What is the process of "bleeding the caliper" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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