Brad850 Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Thanks for the explanation Marteen. I'll go for the switchable one as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venderbroeck Posted February 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 (edited) Alright, some more progress on the defloaters after a day of working on them: -overdeveloped all pcb's to get rid of the photosensitive layer. -cut the pcb's to size -drilled all of the holes in the pcb's -drilled the enclosures, and installing the led holders & wire ports. -soldered on, and programmed all the microcontrollers This is how it's sitting atm: Unfortunately the saw blades I bought were of terrible quality, and they weren't particularly cheap either. I could make them blunt just by looking at them, so cutting the pcb's took way longer that it should have :s. Now it's just a matter of soldering on the rest of the parts and wiring to the pcb's. Also the plugs have to be crimped on when they finally arrive. Edited February 6, 2016 by venderbroeck 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIZIO AKA 1 HND MEC Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 Can I pick-up mine? can't wait anymore!!! Joking, great job Man!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venderbroeck Posted February 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 Haha not quite yet :p Uni hit me full force again, but I did find a little bit of time to work on tge defloaters. Currently I'm adding the rest of the electronics to the boards. Ill take some more pics when I finish adding the electronics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 What's the downside of having a switchable unit that works with COP? Just wondering why you don't make all of the units switchable by default 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesdunns70t5m Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 ^ +1 good question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) My guess is that with the exact same parts he can build either version (so that he can mass-produce without having to worry too much about customer-specific customizations when ordering parts and building), but at the cost of not having an on/off switch for the COP one. An on/off might still be useful, as mine initially failed emissions with the defloater attached - on fast down-rev, the combustion mixture isn't exactly 'clean' :D, which is the entire reason why Volvo designed the revs to float in our cars while shifting. Edited February 9, 2016 by Boxman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venderbroeck Posted February 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) That's more or less the reason. Although I didn't know about it failing emissions tests. You're the first to report that. I can determine which option it will have solely by wiring it slightly differently. Without the on/off switch the defloater can still be disabled relatively quickly by disconnecting the rpm feed, although you need a small spanner for the nut on the ign coil. Toolless disabling can be done by disconnecting its bosch plugs, which can be done in about a minute. (Or 10 secs if you've done it alot like me :p ) Edited February 9, 2016 by venderbroeck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 So basically, if we do not have COP compatibility, the defloater can be disabled with an on/off switch. If we have COP compatibility, the defloater cannot be disabled without unplugging it from the IAC. If that's the case, I'd like my defloater to be COP compatible, just in case I decide to change things up in the future :) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Agreed^ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, venderbroeck said: That's more or less the reason. Although I didn't know about it failing emissions tests. You're the first to report that. I think it depends on the garage and how nit-picky they are, and maybe the specific setup of mods combined. When I rev my engine while stationary, during defloating my AFR usually goes towards the lean end. This is expected and fine. During emissions they always have to test at ~3000RPM while the car is standing still, and upon throttle release the combustion momentarily goes non-stoich, throwing the CO way over the limit momentarily. I think you could argue the <0.3 CO limit is only valid at idle and higher revs and not on throttle release, but the garage saw all my mods under my car and initially pinned it on "too heavily modded exhaust". Didn't really matter much, I went there to see how they tested it, saw what happened, disconnected the defloater and asked them to go again, and then it passed. Likewise, if they let go of the throttle slowly instead of slamming it shut, it'll pass the test fine. It just scared me a bit to get that call saying "your car failed emissions" on my first check with my new engine and custom exhaust.. :P Oh and I went with COP too - better be prepared for the future. Disconnecting it if you really need to is literally a one minute job. Edited February 9, 2016 by Boxman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorx Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Hey Maarten, Long time ago reading this great topic. Log logbox looks lovely. I think daily logging is a must for achieving a perfect tune. Regarding self etching or ordering: Take a look at Eurocircuits they are good and not expensive. They have a new cheaper production line. Seeedstudio from China also gets positive reviews. I have no experience with the latter. Keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venderbroeck Posted February 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Good info, I'll definately check it out. It would save me a lot of time if I could just order those. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad850 Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 7 hours ago, Boxman said: During emissions they always have to test at ~3000RPM Luckily here in NJ they just plug in to the obd2. I've heard them rev cars for 30+ seconds. I think I'd have to stop them if they tried doing that with mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venderbroeck Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 Does anyone here know how about import duty regulations for the US?I'm wondering if, and how much import duty one would have to pay to get all of the defloaters imported into the USA in one box.It's probably dependent on the value entered on shipping. I want to buy ensurance on the shipping, so I think I have to state the value of the package truthfully for it to be covered properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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