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The VAST Wagon Build


Tightmopedman9

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  • 1 year later...

Long time no update... I finally got around to putting some more work into the car, trying to get it ready for hitting the 1/4 this year. 

Last time I put the valve cover back together it was after taking it off 4 times in the span of a week and I didn't do the best job sealing it up, not to mention I used Permatex's anaerobic sealant (which I haven't had good luck with even when taking my time). I was losing about a quart every 800 miles, so I decided to take it back apart, do it right, and while I was in there add some free power.

I measured 2 sets of cams from some heads I had in the shop and measured their lift.

Intake - 30637410 - 8.38mm, 259°

Exhaust - 8642712 - 9.04mm, 291°

Duration was measured at .005", which I know isn't a standard anyone uses, so just take the measurements for the sake of comparison. One set was from an '04 R, the other from an '05 R and they turned out to be identical. 

I was hoping that the cams in my head were less aggressive, being that the head was originally from an '05 LPT engine, but they turned out to be the same. 

Not wanting to seal up the valve cover without doing anything performance related I decided to swap out my intake cam for an exhaust cam. In order to time the cam correctly I fabricated a new cam locking tool which would hold both cams in the same relative position to the Volvo 'base' position. I measured the peak lift on the intake cam relative to the base position for the tool and then rotated the exhaust cam to the same location and welded up a new locking tool. 

wIAj

On the left is the angle from the base position to maximum lift on the intake cam, on the right is the exhaust cam in the intake cam's base position using the cam locking tool.

Luckily my cam locking tool cam with two additional pieces that fit into the back of the cams, so I just welded one onto some 1/2" steel plate at the correct angle.

C6n3

9JTN

Since I'm also controlling the VVT solenoids with M4.4 I swapped an intake VVT cam hub onto the exhaust cam. I measured the exhaust VVT hub as having 16.8º of range and the intake VVT hub at 28.3º. The VVT unit only advances the cam from its' base position, and knowing that I could now advance both cams almost 30º I decided to add 8º more static retard to the cams. With this much retard the engine had almost 0 compression until the VVT units pumped up. After some experimenting I decided that this was too much retard and wan't producing any more power so I set them back to their normal base position. 

At idle I fully advance both cams and the car idles very smoothly. I can actually reduce the idle speed to 700RPM without much degradation in idle quality as well. 

Based on the calibrated butt dyno V1.03 I measured a 18.437298445WHP increase in power from the cam and VVT hub swap. Seriously though, the difference was noticeable. 

My Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump died on me, which may have been due to the fuel filter element I was using. The fuel filter I bought only has cellulose filter media available which is not compatible with E85, so the filter had become very clogged, which I think led to the early demise of the pump. I'm currently looking for a 10 micron stainless element fuel filter, but haven't had much luck. I replaced the Aermotive with a Walbro 460LPH in tank and redid the wiring to 12AWG. I also redid the fuel pump wiring entry into the tank with a purpose made fuel cell bulkhead fitting. 

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I used a 6 pin Deutsch DT series connector and split the power wires into four at the connector to negate any contact resistance. I know it was overkill, but I had a problem with melting the wiring on the Aeromotive and I didn't want to deal with that again.

I'm working on adding the SAS pump to my crankcase breather system, turning on above a set load threshold and sucking through the catch can. I'm not sure it will do anything beneficial, but it won't take much work to implement so I figured why not.

Next up is an intake manifold which I should be done fabricating in a week or so. 

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I also got some new wheels.
1dYA

Wrapped in some Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2's, they're stock equipment on the Ford Focus RS in 235/45R18 so I was able to pick up a never mounted set on CL for $250. They're not the most aggressive street tire, but the ride is comfortable, the slip predictable and the grip good, and for the price I couldn't say no.

I had to decommission my TDRs, which was unfortunate since I spent 15+ hours prepping and fixing them, and $180 on paint. I realized every wheel had a significant hop in it, even the wheel which I had only been running for 1 year and had never curbed. Also, I found 3 cracks on the inner rim on one wheel after painting and had already fixed two cracked spokes on another, only for them to re-break just a week after putting them on. I guess that's the price you pay for running 17lb wheels... I'm going to try and re-fix the spokes and keep them for some track days. 

 

 

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Nice work! Having both cams with 9mm lift and additional duration should make a tangible difference - nice that you made a no-brainer tool for setting them up everytime. Hopefully, since you have done that, it won't be needed :D

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Nice!

I like the black wagon spoiler! ;)

Those are some tall tires! It seems you aren't running fender liners - right? I'd imagine tritons (7.5" wide and a heavy wheel) with those tires ride much different than 17" TDRs...

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10 hours ago, gmsgltr said:

Those are some tall tires! It seems you aren't running fender liners - right? I'd imagine tritons (7.5" wide and a heavy wheel) with those tires ride much different than 17" TDRs...

I don't want to make driving the car a chore so I didn't go for super skinny tires. Their a good enough compromise. 

I was on 215's with the TDRs, so the grip is more, but the handling characteristics feel about the same. 

The DW900 injectors I'm using sit just a touch deeper in the fuel rail than the stock injectors, so the o-ring didn't fully seat in the manifold. I cut the stock mounting tabs off and welded some new ones to drop it about 1/4". Not exactly show car quality, but it was free and took me 15 minutes...

1ljW

 

Sn_W

On the right is the injector o-ring before lowering the rail, on the left is after. 

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13 hours ago, Tightmopedman9 said:

I don't want to make driving the car a chore so I didn't go for super skinny tires. Their a good enough compromise. 

I was on 215's with the TDRs, so the grip is more, but the handling characteristics feel about the same. 

I hear you there... I need to get rid of my 18" wheels for this reason. I want to continue to maintain my fender liners but the 225/35/18 tire is indeed a chore... looking to do TDR's likely in 17"

 

 

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19 hours ago, cruzer555 said:

Nice build! Hows that clutch setup holding up? Considering doing the same to my S60R... Oh and how much did the machine shop charge to re-pin for the 707?

Its a good setup. Its never slipped and since it's a full face organic it is easy to drive and has a wide engagement point. The pedal is really stiff though.

I'm not running fender liners, which is something pretty shitty to give up, but I just try not to drive when it is wet or on dirty roads.

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1 hour ago, Tightmopedman9 said:

I'm not running fender liners, which is something pretty shitty to give up, but I just try not to drive when it is wet or on dirty roads.

When is it not wet and dirty in Denver?  I'll be there all next week.

We had a solution many years ago, I still have no rub,

 

 

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1 hour ago, ErikS said:

We had a solution many years ago, I still have no rub,

 

 

Good job you added pics - Aaron's post said make horizontal cut (which makes no sense anyway) - when actually it's a vertical pie cut from the fender to the strut tower lol

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On 5/2/2017 at 3:56 PM, Tightmopedman9 said:

Its a good setup. Its never slipped and since it's a full face organic it is easy to drive and has a wide engagement point. The pedal is really stiff though.

I'm not running fender liners, which is something pretty shitty to give up, but I just try not to drive when it is wet or on dirty roads.

Good to hear, thanks for the insight there. I don't mind a stiff pedal at all so it's perfect for me there.

 

You're a tuner so I probably don't even have to ask about power right? Chances are you're making more than me lol!

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