The VAST Wagon Build

[Tightmopedman9]

I am beyond stumped.

I started going through a lot of troubleshooting without much of a logical process, just hoping that something will jump out at me as obviously wrong. Unfortunately, that hasn't happened. So, I switched my methodology, and haven't made anything clearer.

The current problem appears to be that cylinders #4 and #5 are not operating. I'm basing this on the color of the plugs. I put in brand new plugs and they all shows signs of combustion, except for #4 and #5.

What I established, is that with the coils out of the cylinders, I didn't have spark on coil #1 or #3. However, with the coils in the cylinders, I can verify that the car is running on #1 and #3 by unplugging the respective injectors and noticing a change in idle quality. Regardless, I cut the signal lead at both coils and jumpered it straight from the ECU. This got me spark with the coils out of the cylinders, but it didn't make a difference to how the car ran.

I checked compression on #4 and #5 and got 120 (barometric pressure today was 12.3psi, 8.5*12.3 = 104psi so 120 is good for a cold engine). I blew out the cylinders with compressed air and squirted some machine oil in. After running again and pulling all the plugs I can see that cylinders 1-3 were firing, but 4 and 5 are still clean.

 

Edited June 15, 2015 by Tightmopedman9

[BlackT5]

Your cam cover is coated/painted. Have you removed the coating with sand paper/emerycloth for all the grounds for a nice solid ground connection where the coils bolt to the head and the grounds for the coils mount. Same with the two eng grounds on the cover?

 

As for the FPR, you mentioned getting a bung welded to the rail at some point. Put one on each end and put the regulator after the rail. It's a bypass regulator and is suggested to be placed after the rail as per the Aeromotive site.

Edited June 15, 2015 by BlackT5

[mattwebb502]

Can you refit the distributor, get your fuelling issues sorted, then move back to the coil packs?

[lookforjoe]

Have you also rechecked cam timing? 12inHg Vac is really low for any Volvo cam setup. You should have 18inHg or better, even at higher (cold) idle.

Maybe you have poor combustion if the cam timing is far enough out.

Do you have another COP ECU you can swap out yet?

My gauge is also mounted on the FPR, and reads pressure fine. It shouldn't drop off rapidly  - perhaps your injectors are leaking? You could cap off the FPR outlet & see how long it holds pressure when it's not feeding the rail & injectors.

 

You can make a spark tester with an old coil wire

that way you can confirm spark when running .

 

EDIT: If cam timing is out far enough, it can impact the cam sensor  - mine 'loped' initially with the enemy cams due to the cam timing impacting the signal

Edited June 16, 2015 by lookforjoe

[Tightmopedman9]

I found the problem. There is continuity between injector 4 & 5. I cut the injector harness from a P1 S40 for the EV14 connectors and I used a seam ripper when taking off the stock loom; I must have nicked the wires in the process. I haven't fixed the problem, but a scope confirms this is the issue.

In other news, the junction between the turbo and manifold is leaking. I tacked the lower two M10x1.5 studs in place (don't ask me why) and I believe this might have warped the flange. Although, it may be because of the machining of the flange. I wanted to retain as much material as possible when milling the flange flat, so a small groove was left in the flange.

I believe this groove is the cause of the leak and the single layer gasket I used is not enough to seal it. I'm going to get a stock 300zx T3 turbo gasket:

Since the lower studs are tacked in place, I'll have to slot the bottom bolt holes and slide the gasket in. I'll coat it in a thin layer of axle grease to form a carbon seal when heat cycled. And I'll be crossing my fingers extra hard since there isn't any way for me to remove the manifold without pulling the engine.

Hussein, I appreciate the troubleshooting, but when not firing on all the cylinders vacuum isn't a very good indication of anything. The IAC will be open to keep the idle up, and the idle is usually low or high. Also, I've found that AFR has a large effect on vacuum readings. 

I've timed these RN heads a hundred times, and checking cam timing was one of the first things I did. It was fine.

I think the fuel pressure drop is a leak in between the fuel pump outlet and the pump, inside the tank. I'm re-doing the entire assembly to help with fuel slosh and a small seep at the right angle outlet. With the upgraded suspension I can starve the engine even before breaking the tires loose when at or below a half tank. I think I figured out a way to fix the issue though.

 

Edited April 30, 2017 by Tightmopedman9

[lookforjoe]

I found the problem. There is continuity between injector 4 & 5. I cut the injector harness from a P1 S40 for the EV14 connectors and I used a seam ripper when taking off the stock loom; I must have nicked the wires in the process. I haven't fixed the problem, but a scope confirms this is the issue.

I think the fuel pressure drop is a leak in between the fuel pump outlet and the pump, inside the tank. I'm re-doing the entire assembly to help with fuel slosh and a small seep at the right angle outlet. With the upgraded suspension I can starve the engine even before breaking the tires loose when at or below a half tank. I think I figured out a way to fix the issue though.

 

Good to hear you found the issue.

You must have a problem with the intank pickup, there is no way it should fuel starve with less than a couple gallons in the tank. 

Did you post a link to a superior spline coupler? I can't find it now, but I know someone did. I have to replace my angle drive.

Edited June 22, 2015 by lookforjoe

[Commander Riker]

http://www.pdvmotorsports.com/products/m66-collar

 

?

[German850R]

So, how does it run?

[Tightmopedman9]

So, how does it run?

Good, lol. I need to update this thread, haha. 

I'm only at 300 miles, so I have another 200 miles until the clutch is broken in and I can turn up the boost.

For the time being, I'm on wastegate boost at ~13psi, at which I'm pulling 1150kg/hr (typical maximum airflow seen from a 19t). I've been running about 22º of timing at this boost level. Usually I can only run 7.5-8º of timing at a similar RPM and airflow on a 19t. 

Boost onset RPM is very slow right now, despite the adequate amount of pre-load. I'll be investigating this today.

[Johann]

Although, it may be because of the machining of the flange. I wanted to retain as much material as possible when milling the flange flat, so a small groove was left in the flange.

 

Next time machine the groove out. Plenty of material left.

 

 

[German850R]

Good, lol. I need to update this thread, haha. 

I'm only at 300 miles, so I have another 200 miles until the clutch is broken in and I can turn up the boost.

For the time being, I'm on wastegate boost at ~13psi, at which I'm pulling 1150kg/hr (typical maximum airflow seen from a 19t). I've been running about 22º of timing at this boost level. Usually I can only run 7.5-8º of timing at a similar RPM and airflow on a 19t. 

Boost onset RPM is very slow right now, despite the adequate amount of pre-load. I'll be investigating this today.

Good to read!

I see at least 2 areas where this can go wrong:

1) What is the bypass valve connected to? Intake manifold vacuum?

2) the built-in TCV. Maybe worth trying a regular one. Maybe the frequency the M4.4 sends is too high or low.

Just guessing, though

[Tightmopedman9]

Next time machine the groove out. Plenty of material left.

Yes, I should have. Although, with the car running, it doesn't seem to be leaking at all.

Good to read!

I see at least 2 areas where this can go wrong:

1) What is the bypass valve connected to? Intake manifold vacuum?

2) the built-in TCV. Maybe worth trying a regular one. Maybe the frequency the M4.4 sends is too high or low.

Just guessing, though

The bypass valve is connected to the vacuum tree, directly after the throttle.

I know that right now the TCV is not controlling boost. The specifications for the TCV signal are 32hz max and .72A average current consumption. The ECU should be able to sink enough current without problem, but I can't remember what the speed of the control frequency is. I vaguely remember 25hz, but can't find anything to substantiate that. 

The BW documentation states that signal polarity matters; I assumed that polarity wouldn't matter, so maybe I have the wires reversed.

[German850R]

My bad. If you are on WG pressure, the TCV doesn't do much ;).

 

[Tightmopedman9]

Some pictures I've been meaning to post...

Since I have a M66 and a single mass flywheel in the car I needed a suitable clutch.  Ol' Dirty Noodle posted that a Sachs SD693 clutch has the correct shaft specs, but looking at pictures of this clutch it looked quite wimpy and probably not good for 500WHP. I ended up going with an ACT 3000204. It is a full face organic that looks considerably beefier than an 850R disc. Paired with a Sachs 707 plate I think this should combo should be plenty capable.

I redid the entire wiring harness and eliminated a lot of crap I didn't need. I also integrated COP wiring, wideband wiring, oil pressure and oil temperature. 

I didn't have a spare set of knock sensors, so I used a set from a P2. 

With the EFR 7064 there wasn't any bolt on options for the turbo drain, so I chopped up a K24 drain and created my own. Sorry for the crap pictures, but the engine was swinging on a hoist when I took these...

I found a straight 5' section of stainless 3" pipe at a local scrap yard, so I decided to use it for my DP. I think the filler rod ended up being more expensive than the actual pipe!

Welded a 6AN fitting to a spare M4.4 rail...

And then she was ready to drop in!

 

I'll get some more pictures up in a few days.

Edited May 18, 2017 by Tightmopedman9

[Martijn_B]

I'm a bit surprised by your choice for the ACT clutch, normally you would say that the 707 in combination with the R disk can maintain the right amount of torque for your setup. Any specific motivation tgat you went with ACT? Would be interesting to know, as I am dropping in my 707 next weekend with R disk.