lookforjoe Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Can't really tell from that pic if the stack height of the PP is correct. The PN on the package is correct, but that doesn't mean much. Did you compare your original clutch parts with the Spec parts at any point? Thing is, a very small height discrepancy is all it takes for the clutch not to function. This is the DMF Spec PP (on SMF intended for DMF clutch) - yours doesn't really look any deeper, and the SMF version should be obviously deeper... total stack height, you can see how shallow the DMF PP is from this angle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob82pigdog Posted March 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Can't really tell from that pic if the stack height of the PP is correct. The PN on the package is correct, but that doesn't mean much. Did you compare your original clutch parts with the Spec parts at any point? Thing is, a very small height discrepancy is all it takes for the clutch not to function. This is the DMF Spec PP (on SMF intended for DMF clutch) - yours doesn't really look any deeper, and the SMF version should be obviously deeper... Wow, I'm surprised how similar your DMF PP looks. I thought it woould be super easy to see the differences in the pictures. Personally I didn't compare the SPEC parts to stock. Frikkin A, though. I hope the shop would have. That's wrenching 101 basic stuff. Transmission shop just called and confirmed it is some issue with the pressure plate and/ or clutch. Hydraulics look good. He said the throw of the bearing looks normal just not engaging the fingers enough. It looks like either SPEC sent the wrong PP or it's not torqued down right. SPEC doesn't cover labor on their warranty so if it turns out they sent me the wrong part, I will have paid for this job to be done twice! I gave the shop the go ahead to tear it back down so we can finally see the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Well, SPEC would say basically what you just did, the first shop should have compared the PP coming out to the one going in to make sure they were the same size/shape. If they went ahead and installed a DMF clutch kit on a SMF instead of telling you to call SPEC, that's on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob82pigdog Posted March 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Shop number 2 works fast! (Turns out the tech used to own and maintain an 850R.)They called to report an improperly tightened pressure plate. None of the bolts were tight! Unbelievable.They compared my original clutch and PP, which were in the back seat, to the SPEC parts and said they are correct. I had them take pictures and they know the situation so they are going to provide documentation for me. The car should be put back together by tomorrow morning. I still won't be able to breathe easy until I get the call that everything is all back together and the car functions properly. Wish me luck on getting the first shop to pay me back! I don't want to screw them over. I just want them to pay me back the cost at shop number 2, work that wouldn't have been necessary had they done the work properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 I love it when a plan comes together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ol' Dirty Noodle Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Knew it glad it worked out, now try getting your money back from shop 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Hopefully you paid with a card, if they give you any grief don't hesitate to charge back the entire amount. Blaming you/your parts when they didn't torque them down is just fucked up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob82pigdog Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Thanks for all the replies and help! Yes, I paid with a card so hopefully I'm covered there. I'll give them the chance to refund me just the cost of shop 2's work. Otherwise I'm going full amount with a charge back. Can't wait to roll up in my wagon with parts that don't work together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Great news! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob82pigdog Posted March 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 (edited) Got the car back and it feels great! One last problem. The tech that did the work said the tranny case is already leaking at the parting line. He said the pink Volvo sealant is the wrong stuff and gear oil will eat through it. And that some type of RTV should have been used. I asked about this in an older post and 2 or 3 people said the pink stuff is what to use! Who's wrong about the sealant? I looked up under the car and it still seemed dry. I'll watch for a puddle in the morning. I think I'll die if I have to pull that gearbox again. No more money to pay for someone else to do it this time but still no good place for me to do the work. Edited March 11, 2015 by bob82pigdog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 Good question. Volvo doesn't have instructions for disassembling the M56, they only exchange them from Sweden. So, don't know from that angle. Wonder why he says pink stuff doesn't work? It is used on the head to hold on the cam cover, and also on the pan to block mating surfaces, and those get hotter in all liklihood han the trans. Unless the transfluid eats the pink stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshV70 Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 Always used RTV sealant on transmission cases. Glad it's back together - update us on what shop #1 has to say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 I use grey stuff on gearbox casings. Pink stuff on engine stuff. The 12mm hex bolts need to be tightened at 25 Nm. You could stretch that to ~28 Nm and see if it helps. Often the leaking comes from badly cleaned and flattened surfaces. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 Anaerobic sealant is definitely not intended for the trans. If you noticed, the stuff that was in there was a form of RTV. you don't want to use generic RTV, use the grey stuff as Johan said. Subaru also sells it, since Volvo doesn't. Subaru PN 004403007 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 That's good info that should really be in the stickied manual swap thread too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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