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Peacocks Wagon Build


apeacock

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11 hours ago, Commander Riker said:

How many miles does your car have?  Did you notice the sub frame bushings as an improvement?  I think mine are going at 230k.

151,000 after the trip to do this swap. The sub frame bushings looked great actually. The improvement they give is cornering consistency. The sub frame as little to no shift when cornering so you don't have to re adjust your angle once in a turn. 

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Adding to the wealth of knowledge about manual swaps I figured it's worth confirming that the connector PN 8690674 is indeed correct for the reverse lights (Thanks Lookforjoe). It's made by EPC connectors and is "EPC E-4014" It was only $4.73 before tax. There's another website that lists is for $1.62 however they have a minimum processing amount so they want $38 basically. Tasca also sells the terminals that plug right into it. 

Housing - EPC housing

Terminals - Terminals

Hose - The savings!

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Somehow the OEM upper hose is cheaper then the parts store version. Go figure..
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Edited by apeacock
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Still getting the holes closed up. Sunday I took out the shift lever and removed the last of the plastic cable runner and foam material from the drive shaft hump. You really need to remove every piece of it to have it sit on the floor. 

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I used 2 washers under the 3 corners. Then a washer / rubber doughnut  / washer / bolt on top of that. 

Note as well I've not see a good picture of the wiring in this section. I routed the SRS loom over the cables where they come into the center console, then put them to the left of the lever. The heated seat power sits nicely between the two cables. I then zip tied the OBD II loom to the big metal H shaped piece so it clears the vertical shift arm without rubbing. 

I've seen the SRS wires placed right under neath but with the lower section of the shift arm protruding just enough it seems wise to get them safe and out of the way. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
4 hours ago, Timbo Slice said:

Nice work man! Really looking forward to seeing this car over the summer. You're coming to Ithaca right?

I'll be there!

 

8 hours ago, Big Will said:

You've done an awesome job with the project. Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing it.

Thanks! and thanks for answering a few questions down the line!

 

 

18 hours ago, Domo said:

nice

 

Thumbs up!


Got my rear damper back from Ohlins USA. Really ashamed I had it in there improperly and it tore through the cable. 
You can see how much it ate away at the body. 
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New tube and new more oil. Really dumb $200 mistake. 
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Edited by apeacock
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  • 2 weeks later...

May Update:

Fixed a gnarly random misfire with new Volvo plugs.
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Hopefully fixed the lower drain on the PCV breather box. The previous part was correct however It seems that the clamps FCP provides might do more harm then good potentially deforming the metal ring causing a leak. 

I also can't say what it means but while they look the same, the old part was marked 28 and the new one 21. 
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Coolant bottle had a crack in the top so out it goes. The new one looks so much better too, hard to believe something has basic as that makes that big of a visual difference under the hood. 
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Long debated is the location of the front strut reservoirs. I know it can't be the best place for them and I'm considering a relocation but wanted to gather some hard evidence before doing so. Erik from Ohlins USA said while he didn't have a set maximum temperature they should be exposed too, his track experience showed 150-200* was a good range. 

While not scientific I drove to my mechanics, stopped, drove to the store, stopped, drove home, walked inside got the temp gun and took these measurements. There were also some nice hard pulls in the mix there
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Measure the top and bottom of the unit.
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Drivers side front

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Exposed portion of the turbo
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Wrapped portion of the down pipe. 

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Makes me think i should cover that exposed portion. 



Bonus Volvo 240 stuff:
Installed my junkyard find drivers door pocket and some un-destroyed blue seats. 
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With the pcv leak and everything else maybe finally done for the time being I could actually turn my sights on cosmetic upgrades to the engine bay. 

I only painted from just above the intake up but when standing looking at it seems to come across nicely. 

Andy and another member here guided me a bit on paint choice. I went with Duplicolor self etching primer and the "Aluminum" engine enamel paint color. 
Can on the left is the one you want.
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I can also safely say I can have the engine and everything down to this state in about 60 minutes now. Alternator out, ps off as well for paint

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I used some spare junkyard injectors to keep the ports clear and I would 100% recommend this as the best way to keep where they sit in the intake clear. 
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Spare oil cap doing it's job as well. 
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Looking good!
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Finished product. Also wiped down all the black plastic under the hood. 
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18 hours ago, gmsgltr said:

Ah so you painted the top of the block in the bay! Sweet!

It looks great - I love it when under the hood has some detail ;)

yes indeed! took inspiration from Andy and the guy with the crazy 850R. 

Figured I could finally turn my sights on engine appearance with the PCV oil leak and Coolant etc all taken care of. I took the manifold out to paint it as well as the PS pump. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just a text post today:

I realized as some already may have. That the passenger side seat foam fits the drivers side as well. While it's possible to even use the lower leather portion, I decided to keep my better condition non stained leather from the R seats i bought. 

The swap took no more then 45 minutes (seat was already out). Just a matter of undoing snipping the hog rings on the edges and then from the front and back of the center cross over portions. 

The difference is amazing. Whenever I ride in the passenger seat of my cars I'm really jealous as to how high up the seat seems to be.

Very much a swap I would recommend. 
 

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