apeacock Posted July 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 (edited) in the process of getting a parts order above $50 I see that FCP sells the rear latch for a very reasonabl $17.99 Tired of looking at the old nasty one so simple enough Lots of crap down in there Went full out and dremeled down the bolts and even painted them silver again Still need to finish the wood in the back but other wise a worthwhile little cheap endevor Status of the Rear Ohlins is good. Both have new hoses now equipped with super custom heater hose. Pass Drivers Should have been done long ago but this should save the $200 expense of getting new hoses again. I also question the presence of this crud in the oil filter I've been seeing it for the past few oil changes. But I also only change it on miles not really time. Or maybe a combo of both. Oil is mostly the same since parking it in Decemeber. Driven I think 4000-5000Km in that time. Valvoline 10w30 Max Life Full Synth. The bits aren't reflective nor are they ferrous Perhaps just carbon goop? Edited July 9, 2016 by apeacock 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 More parts and installs Still tracking down a smallish oil leak from the front of the block. Went ahead and replaced the oil pressure sensor and the oil dipstick oring. In prep for a bigger turbo I installed a Innovate MTX-L gauge and the included Wideband sensor. Had the exhaust shop weld in the included 1" bung for me. As for power I guess the 20A red wire is always on. Went with the brown 2A connection in the yellow accessory plug. Gauge instructions say 3A supply so maybe this isn't the best spot? Found that car quest (converting to advance auto) sells these 1/8" male ends that work well at inserting wires into that connector. They were $0.69 so i bought a few. They are slightly too wide to allow the clamps to close flush on the yellow connector. However it does still work just fine. The cord for the wideband is to fat to fit through the normal connector in the firewall so i used the port for the throttle cable on 98- cars. Cut a + into the plug and fed the wire through. Routed it under the carpet then up under the A pillar. Contending with the wires for power and the boost gauge was interesting. Visible are those purple wires I pulled from the old Auto transmission harness. Took an idea from Steve0 and cut up a loktek pod to fit nice over the normal single pod. Really didn't want a triple pod setup so this will have to work. You can see there's a gap left where they meet and that's just by design. Thin cut dremel wheel worked well for this. Screen reads weird because of the camera Also sourcing more parts for this pretty thing to be installed. If any one ha advice on how to best setup the lines to it that would be great. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 Might want to check with Ben McNally (BMac) - I think he used a BW Turbo on his S60 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ol' Dirty Noodle Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 3 hours ago, lookforjoe said: Might want to check with Ben McNally (BMac) - I think he used a BW Turbo on his S60 I believe your right, and I think he has a website or email it'd be easier to get ahold of him on, Timo prob knows better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 He is using a precision, but Steveo and Ryan Carey are using a 7064. I welded a 3/4"ID drain above the oil level on a pan for Junies (modman), that worked well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted July 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 4 hours ago, Tightmopedman9 said: He is using a precision, but Steveo and Ryan Carey are using a 7064. I welded a 3/4"ID drain above the oil level on a pan for Junies (modman), that worked well. Any pictures of where. Once he knows how to do it I think we can proceed. That oil leak seems to be coming from the oil pan as well. hopefully dropping it makes it better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted July 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 So lesson learned. When the book says 3A of power minimum it means 3 amps of power! not 2.... My supply I had was woefully inadequate and cause the whole thing to read 22.4 after only a few minutes of use. Apart from being other wise weird. Break out the relay! I've never used a relay to add something to a car so it was certainly new territory. Picked up some 5amp fuses, a RL44 relay, and the fuse holder for $15. Black 20A supply coming from the Red car side connector (Always on) Purple 2A supply (switched with key turn ) Green Ground being shared by the relay and the gauge. Used the purple 2A supply to switch on the single pole of the relay to allow the 20A current to flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted July 18, 2016 Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 15 hours ago, Tightmopedman9 said: This is awesome thank you. I'me going to the yard today and taking home another oil pan to modify. (or have some one modify in this case) If i wanted to go the AN fitting route, what size should I use? I presume too 90* at the bottom 45* at the top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow95 Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 nevermind. Already been asked and answered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 1 minute ago, Yellow95 said: Got any pics of that? asking the important things! Isn't that what the pictures he attached are of? drain right into the pan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow95 Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Just now, apeacock said: asking the important things! Isn't that what the pictures he attached are of? drain right into the pan? Yeah I saw it after I posted. Sorry for the clutter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Just now, Yellow95 said: Yeah I saw it after I posted. Sorry for the clutter. Doesn't matter to me! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 Turbo is pretty glorious. Parts should all be sourced an ready to go. Waiting on the IWG. Based on the pictures provided I can see that a full on AN fitting would likely cause some fitment issues. Russell makes a 3/8 not to -10AN 90* elbow and it seems to fit perfect and not extend any further then the homebrew k24 line tightdopeman has. Planning on making a drain at the very top of the oil pan to replace the one higher up in the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 Nice, that fitting looks very low profile. Are you going with the dual port wastegate and 4 port solenoid? I replaced the CBV on mine with the turbo smart as well; it didn't do anything for performance but the stock CBV made this super annoying (I thought) whine at light throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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