Peacocks Wagon Build

[apeacock]

Instead of dicking around with warranty and shipping them out to an Ohlins service center, I'd just have a local hydraulic line shop replace that section of line.  It'd be cheaper and quicker to deal with a local shop.  I know Omni Services can typically turn that stuff around in a day or two - there's one not far from you in Buffalo at 3187 Eggert Road Tonawanda, NY

​Despite having this rear set up im not 100% familiar with the build on them. Will having them apart loose enough oil and or gas to loose their effectiveness? It works intermittently right now and after the last trip is once again level. Though it seems to be hit or miss so far. 

[Blockpartie]

IIRC you can't just remove the line from the damper. There is no check valve so you'd vent all of the nitrogen and loose some of the oil -> shock no longer working and in need of a rebuild. I suspect the same thing is happening right now.

They aren't self leveling if that is what you mean.

[apeacock]

IIRC you can't just remove the line from the damper. There is no check valve so you'd vent all of the nitrogen and loose some of the oil -> shock no longer working and in need of a rebuild. I suspect the same thing is happening right now.

They aren't self leveling if that is what you mean.

Ahh my understanding I that they are self leveling and a few places describing them list them as a replacement for cars with self leveling suspension, but perhaps that's only in refference to their fitment on the car itself.  

There are a few bike shops listed around this area that show they work on Ohlins (or at least distribute them)  I'll start making calls around to see what can be done locally. The service at performance shock was great but they are on the wrong coast. 

 

Next minor issue has been ride hieght. I guess the Tme springs are better suited to the Oem suspension and not this ohlins setup.  what should be 350/335mm front and rear is 340/300mm wheel center to fender. I like it lowered but I don't want to hit the front lip or anything underneath.  

[Blockpartie]

Ahh my understanding I that they are self leveling and a few places describing them list them as a replacement for cars with self leveling suspension, but perhaps that's only in refference to their fitment on the car itself.  

There are a few bike shops listed around this area that show they work on Ohlins (or at least distribute them)  I'll start making calls around to see what can be done locally. The service at performance shock was great but they are on the wrong coast. 

 

Next minor issue has been ride hieght. I guess the Tme springs are better suited to the Oem suspension and not this ohlins setup.  what should be 350/335mm front and rear is 340/300mm wheel center to fender. I like it lowered but I don't want to hit the front lip or anything underneath.  

​Well... the Öhlins are indeed a replacement for cars with self leveling suspension. That doesn't mean that the Öhlins are self leveling. With the exception of some S70 AWD models, all P80 AWD cars came with nivomats (self leveling suspension) and only Öhlins are intended as a "replacement" suspension. Non nivomat S70 AWD dampers or one of the many coilover kits will work as well, it's just not what Volvo intended.

Which brings us neatly to your ride height problem. Springs for cars with nivomats are different from cars with normal suspension are different from cars with Öhlins. Try installing rear Öhlins springs for less stance nation.

[JoshV70]

I'm not sure where in NY you are, but ANZE Suspension also services Ohlins and are located in Greenvale, NY.  A motorcycle shop that rebuilds Ohlins could most likely repair it, as well.

Edited May 13, 2015 by JoshV70

[apeacock]

​Well... the Öhlins are indeed a replacement for cars with self leveling suspension. That doesn't mean that the Öhlins are self leveling. With the exception of some S70 AWD models, all P80 AWD cars came with nivomats (self leveling suspension) and only Öhlins are intended as a "replacement" suspension. Non nivomat S70 AWD dampers or one of the many coilover kits will work as well, it's just not what Volvo intended.

Which brings us neatly to your ride height problem. Springs for cars with nivomats are different from cars with normal suspension are different from cars with Öhlins. Try installing rear Öhlins springs for less stance nation.

Yeah no stance is good stance for me. Should I go back to stock? Looking at the Kaplan coilover spring kit To get the proper height without messing around. 

 

I'm in buffalo ny. 

[Blockpartie]

May I suggest that you install the OEM rear Öhlins springs designed to go with the rear Öhlins kit? Car will be lowered slightly compared to factory height (based on US suspension, not EURO suspension) but not to your current level. P/N #9481769 for the springs, it's a set of two.

[apeacock]

May I suggest that you install the OEM rear Öhlins springs designed to go with the rear Öhlins kit? Car will be lowered slightly compared to factory height (based on US suspension, not EURO suspension) but not to your current level. P/N #9481769 for the springs, it's a set of two.

Thank you for the part #, now to locate somewhere that still has them. Is there a proper front set as well? 

[apeacock]

While still sitting on where to go with the new springs I stopped off in Webster NY after Carlisle and got to work making a new shock nut tool to replace the one I foolishly lost. 

Cut this one up first and got the 12mm x 48mm part right but it was just too fat to start with and wouldn't fit in the hole


The rest went well using the last 22mm deep socket lowes had on the shelf. 






Like a glove!!!!



Plus gratuitous Autocross!

Proudly ran the slowest time from my group at 1pm. However its hard to keep up down 200+ HP from the mighty XR. 



 

[andyb5]

Anthony, good to meet you this weekend!  Like we talked about, if you're unable to source the correct Ohlins springs, here is the part number for those S70 AWD springs 9203935.  

Here is some further information on the rear strut/spring combos if you're interested: 
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/160831-nivomat-equipped-4wd-wagon-suspension-refresh-option/?do=findComment&comment=2239166
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/151199-awd-nivomat-swap-using-regular-shocks-and-oem-springs/

[apeacock]

Anthony, good to meet you this weekend!  Like we talked about, if you're unable to source the correct Ohlins springs, here is the part number for those S70 AWD springs 9203935.  

Here is some further information on the rear strut/spring combos if you're interested: 
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/160831-nivomat-equipped-4wd-wagon-suspension-refresh-option/?do=findComment&comment=2239166
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/151199-awd-nivomat-swap-using-regular-shocks-and-oem-springs/

​Like wise sir! Checking into two final sources today for the Ohlins Kit and then I will move on the 3935 springs. Is there any change to the bump stops or other hardware? 

[JoshV70]

I had TME/Ohlins on my old 98 AWD and it sat perfectly. Do you think it's too low at the moment?  Also, I would recommend moving the front Ohlins cans further toward the shock towers as the turbo tends to heat them up quite significantly.  Looking good so far!

[Big Will]

Hi all,

Just want to jump in here for a minute on the Ohlins. I can say from experience that if you unhook the line from the shock you will lose some pressure. Ideally you wouldn't do that. However, if you do end up doing that, just make sure you go to a repair shop that deals with Ohlins (probably easiest to find a motorcycle shop) and have the reservoirs recharged. When you do so make sure you jack up the car a little bit. They should be at 145-150 PSI. It's really easy to do. Just remove the screw from the end of the chamber and don't lose the little o-ring on it. Then you'll recharge it via a needle (like for a basketball pump) with nitrogen. This can be done on the car, just make sure it's not sitting on the ground.

You won't have to have the shocks rebuilt if you unhook the line...that's a little extreme. If they had 75 or 100K on them then that might be a different conversation but not brand new.

As for springs, you can also use the Euro R stock springs which I believe were pn:9200184 but I'm not 100% sure those are still available.

Hope that helps!

 

 

 

[apeacock]

I had TME/Ohlins on my old 98 AWD and it sat perfectly. Do you think it's too low at the moment?  Also, I would recommend moving the front Ohlins cans further toward the shock towers as the turbo tends to heat them up quite significantly.  Looking good so far!

​

Yes much too low. My tires sit within the wheel wells on each side and are bottoming out with any kind of weight. Full tank of gas even does it over larger bumps. 

In the process of doing this right now the drivers side is now on top of the top torque mount and the other one will get moved over today I think. 

Part of me wants to stick them under the cowl 100% out of the turbo Heat wave. However that would negate the ability to quickly adjust them.

I also have the turbo heat shield off right now which should maybe go back in place. 

Hi all,

Just want to jump in here for a minute on the Ohlins. I can say from experience that if you unhook the line from the shock you will lose some pressure. Ideally you wouldn't do that. However, if you do end up doing that, just make sure you go to a repair shop that deals with Ohlins (probably easiest to find a motorcycle shop) and have the reservoirs recharged. When you do so make sure you jack up the car a little bit. They should be at 145-150 PSI. It's really easy to do. Just remove the screw from the end of the chamber and don't lose the little o-ring on it. Then you'll recharge it via a needle (like for a basketball pump) with nitrogen. This can be done on the car, just make sure it's not sitting on the ground.

You won't have to have the shocks rebuilt if you unhook the line...that's a little extreme. If they had 75 or 100K on them then that might be a different conversation but not brand new.

As for springs, you can also use the Euro R stock springs which I believe were pn:9200184 but I'm not 100% sure those are still available.

Hope that helps!

 

 

 

​
Can the Line be taken off from the shock side? 
Ive got a split that needs to be taken care of on the drivers side line and I imagine it cannot be removed on this end without everything going to hell. 
The hose is available and costs $94 but would require it being sent it and serviced (I asked where the closest one was and they said their center in IL was it)  - Maybe open to trusting somewhere local with a recharge if available. 


^update as well on that a shop here says they can handle the exchange process directly with Ohlins and the costs difference is minimal. 

I would the euro R springs think are still specced for the self leveling suspension though marked with '5' on the nivomat. I see the 184 springs are for chassis T. They are still available via FCP/tasca etc.

These 3935 springs are also available i'm just unsure if there are any mounting differences. (this were specced in the 850 awd nivo conversion thread)
http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/9203935


Next question:

It dawned on me I can probably just use my ramps and get the back end up enough to drop the shock out of the hole. Any potential issues with that? 

The s70 awd springs Andy was talking about seem like a good solution 

Edited May 18, 2015 by apeacock

[Blockpartie]

    [...]

You won't have to have the shocks rebuilt if you unhook the line...that's a little extreme. If they had 75 or 100K on them then that might be a different conversation but not brand new.

    [...]

​Different words, same meaning. Get it wrong and a rebuild will be necessary, the oil loss also has to be taken into consideration.

 

I'd advise you to not use the S70 AWD non nivomat springs. There is a considerable weight difference between estate and sedan, up to 100kg without load. Not ideal for when you want to use your cargo space. "Lowered chassis" aka Euro R springs, which are indeed for self leveling suspension, would be a better choice. Volvo also sells these springs for the front.

No problems with removing it this way. Spring and everything else can stay where they are.