Big Will Posted August 31, 2017 Report Share Posted August 31, 2017 Great work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted September 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 (edited) Thanks! Finally done with the dis-assembly of the suspension! Didn't have a ton of time over the weekend, but got both rear knuckles stripped down. Got the remnants of the abs sensors removed, wheel bearings pressed out (both were bad), the joint at the top for the upper arm, removed the dust shields without breaking them (thank god). Hoping that there is enough metal there to save them, looks like only superficial surface rust. Anyways.. Going to contact a local powder coater this week and see about having some of these parts done. Bare knuckle: And here is every part that I had to press, push, hammer, burn, cut, chisel, etc.. out of the rear suspension. Glad to be done with that part of the project... Edited September 5, 2017 by tuner4life 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burn-E Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 That last photo is like disaster porn. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted September 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Haha!! The rest of the shop looks about the same. Need to clean it up before doing any more work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDM Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Excellent work! You're inspiring me to do this to mine... I would suggest using good old rustoleum oil base silver on that pitted subframe. A couple of thick coats with a foam brush will do the trick. I'm not a fan of por15 (cost Vs performance rustoleum wins). Beautiful build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Did you end up getting a full P# list together for all the bushings you replaced ? Also about how much ? Just picked up the laser 99R and thinking of doing all the same stuff to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted September 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 16 hours ago, DDM said: Excellent work! You're inspiring me to do this to mine... I would suggest using good old rustoleum oil base silver on that pitted subframe. A couple of thick coats with a foam brush will do the trick. I'm not a fan of por15 (cost Vs performance rustoleum wins). Beautiful build! Thanks! I've actually already got the POR15. It was delivered yesterday. Going to do the subframe and a few spots of surface rust underneath. I've used it on several other projects and never had an issue with it. Just have to apply it by the book. I think that's where the negative reviews come from. 14 hours ago, Chilled man said: Did you end up getting a full P# list together for all the bushings you replaced ? Also about how much ? Just picked up the laser 99R and thinking of doing all the same stuff to it. I don't have a great parts list at the moment, but once everything arrives, I can take pictures of the packing lists and what-not. There are a few parts that are discontinued and you will have to jump through some hoops to source, but more are still available than I expected. I got most of my info from these threads: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?163864-98-00-AWD-Component-Parts-Listings http://v70r.com/forums/topic/37473-p80-awd-rear-suspension-bushings/ Big Will has also been a great resource during this project. He is very knowledgeable about these AWD cars. I don't have a total amount for what this will cost yet unfortunately and tbh it's probably best I don't add it up, It's in the (more than 2) thousands by now for sure. But I'm replacing every wear part in the rear subframe, both fuel pumps fuel lines, the entire exhaust, Nivos, brakes, driveshaft, etc.. I even got a wild hair the other day and ordered every bolt, nut, and washer that I could source. Might have been overkill, but I know that it will be done right. If you are confident working on suspension stuff and aren't scared away by pressing bushings in/out, then you shouldn't have too many problems. It's just a huge project in general. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted September 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 So... Last night, I disassembled the fuel system and tried to make sense of that mess. I've got a new pump, ejector, and filter. But I'll have to custom make the lines. Going to hit the local parts store in the next day or so and see if I can gather the necessary parts. Anything metal is rusty and I don't trust the old rubber. Going to try to replace all of it with nylon lines. Anyways, here are pictures from last night. Mostly for my reference, but I'll post them here too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted September 7, 2017 Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 Eh not concerned about doing the work thats the easy part. Finding the right parts these days seems to be the hard part. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Last night I worked on cleaning up the underside of the car in hopes of taking care of the several areas of surface rust. I'm going to clean them, remove any loose flaky rust and grind away as much corrosion as I can, then go through the complete POR15 3 step process to take care of it once and for all. I'm also going to try Eastwood's "Internal frame coating" on the inside of the rails (from the bumper brackets looking in) They are pretty good shape, but there is some surface rust in there. Hopefully this helps it. Most of the underside looks decent but the front left mounting bracket for the rear subframe had a soft area and once I got to poking at it I opened up a pretty significant hole. It seems that all of these added-on brackets for the AWD subframe collect a bunch of debris and start to rust from the inside out. There is a small drain hole in each, but they were all clogged with crud. The other 3 brackets look ok for now, but I spent a good amount of time poking a screwdriver in through the bolt hole and loosening up sand/salt/dirt that is packed inside, then blowing them out with compressed air. Not sure how I will prevent more corrosion inside of the brackets. Maybe I'll just pack them full of grease or Fluid film before installing the subframe. The 4th bracket (front left) will need a patch welded in due to the rust hole. I started cleaning up the area with a wire brush wheel in preparation for welding. Then I noticed another more disturbing issue. The side-to-side frame rail that is adjacent to this bracket is a bit rusted at the end and had actually cracked. It is also cracked underneath the subframe bracket and was only visible through the rust hole.I think I can get a welder in there enough to make a few tack welds, but it may be too rusty to get clean welds. I'm going to have a friend that is a bit better at welding look at it tonight, hoping for the best. What do you guys think of this? Here is the bracket with the hole in it as well as the part of the crack outside of the bracket: Here is the crack inside of the bracket. I'm worried that the only way to truly fix this would be to remove the bracket to repair the area and weld it back on. How structural is this area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 (edited) Upon talking with someone much better at welding than me, it would seem that the best (and only) way to correctly fix this would be to grind the welds off and remove the bracket completely. Then the cracked area can be repaired (patched with new metal most likely), then the bracket can be welded back on. That's a bit more than I was hoping to have to do, but it'll be fixed right. I'm toying with the idea of cutting them all off, that way I can clean behind them all thoroughly. The other thing I may do, is weld the entire perimeter of each bracket so that water and other harmful stuff can't get inside of them anymore. Since they aren't welded all the way around originally, water can run right in and get trapped. Either that, or I'm going to swiss cheese them so that any water that enters can flow right out easily and I can paint/coat inside easily too. Havent decided yet Edited September 12, 2017 by tuner4life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 (edited) I had a few hours last night to mess with this some more and took a wire wheel to the rusty areas to make any issues more visible as well as clean up the loose surface rust on the places that are getting POR15. That wasn't fun laying under the car... I was able to clean out and inspect the rear subframe mount brackets and both of them seem to be in good shape. Just the fronts have issues. I did find the right side of this frame crossmember to have a small rust hole and some cracking also, although the rust wasn't as severe as the left side. I think I can repair the right side fairly easily without taking removing the subframe bracket. I am a little concerned as to why this crossmember is cracking though. There isn't anything heavy mounted directly to it (subframe bracket is technically mounted to the side frame rails) and I don't see where there would be much stress on it. Not sure why it would be cracking unless the rust just has the metal that thin.. Either way. I'll weld it up and hope for the best. Here is the left side: I got the left side cleaned up too and there is definitely some metal missing now. Thankfully, the front-to-rear frame rail seems to be in good shape, the crack I was seeing inside of the subframe bracket was actually part of the side-to-side frame rail. There is a tab that overlaps onto the side frame rails and that had rusted away leaving a gap. I feel better about that, but will still likely make a patch to go under the bracket to repair what is now missing. Here is the right side after wire-wheel : I'm going to be borrowing a good MIG welder later this week and over the weekend. Hope to have this taken care of soon so I can move on with the project! Edited September 13, 2017 by tuner4life 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 mattsk8 just found bushings that work for the lower control arm at summit. He had to modify them, but they looked really good once he was done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Which bushing? I think I have them all in either OEM or Poly at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 10 hours ago, Commander Riker said: mattsk8 just found bushings that work for the lower control arm at summit. He had to modify them, but they looked really good once he was done. Yeah the solution Matt found was totally unnecessary. You can buy the appropriate drop-in bushings, no modifications needed, with the info in this thread: http://v70r.com/forums/topic/37473-p80-awd-rear-suspension-bushings/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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