Blockpartie Posted September 21, 2017 Report Share Posted September 21, 2017 It's more a locker than a LSD. It was standard on all AWD models. Volvo was quite proud of their AWD system and made a video that explains how it works: 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted September 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2017 I spend a good bit of time on youtube and I'm a little upset I hadn't seen that before! So neat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blockpartie Posted September 21, 2017 Report Share Posted September 21, 2017 Very neat. I wonder how much of this Volvo has preserved in their archives and what has been lost. So many strange and wonderful things they did in the '90s... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted September 22, 2017 Report Share Posted September 22, 2017 And it's an m58 car! The Aye Doubleyou Dee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quiksilver Posted September 22, 2017 Report Share Posted September 22, 2017 10 minutes ago, apeacock said: And it's an m58 car! The Aye Doubleyou Dee. All 850 AWDs were M58s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted September 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2017 (edited) The first step of prepping the body was to actually clean it. 20 years and 240k of grime under here. I used purple power at 100% strength and a few different shapes of scrub brushes, then rinsed with fresh water in a spray bottle. By the end of last night I was dirty, wet, sore, and tired, but it's clean. The left side has been cleaned compared to the right side and very top of the picture which are untouched. And all clean! The dark spots are either surface rust that will get the POR15 treatment, or some residual undercoating. You can also see the gussets I added between the frame rail and subframe mounts I'm not sure why the PO decided to use hot pink spray paint over the area where they cut the floor to access the fuel pump. Probably going to seam seal that area and call it good. Edited September 22, 2017 by tuner4life 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ol' Dirty Noodle Posted September 23, 2017 Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 On 9/22/2017 at 7:39 AM, tuner4life said: By the end of last night I was dirty, wet, sore, and tired Some people pay good money for such a thing 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted October 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2017 ^ I'm pretty well invested into this and didn't even get a happy ending. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted October 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2017 (edited) Been offline most of last week due to having child #2. We were excited, exhausted, and most importantly, I was off work all week. I was able to make a bit of progress on this! As I post the installation of parts, I'll try to remember to include part numbers for folks to reference in the future. First, I finished up the 3 stage POR15 process on the underside of the car. Any spots that had any surface rust at all should not be a non-issue for a very long time. I also prepped and coated the more severely corroded parts of the subframe with POR15. I'm hoping that this helps with any future issues and keeps any dirt/moisture that is pooled in that area from reaching the aluminum. After the POR15, I blew out the inside of the frame rails and channels and sprayed Eastwood's Internal frame coating in them. It was a bit messy, but I feel comfortable that the internal surfaces are now more protected then they were. Time will tell for sure I guess.Then I prepped the whole area and sprayed a nice thick coat of 3M rubber undercoating to finish protecting everything. Here are the products used for battling future rust and corrosion. Then I moved on to the differential. I cleaned up the cover and per another thread I saw over on SS, I added a NPT style drain plug in an accessible place at the bottom of the diff cover. Now I can actually service the rear differential fluid! I also drilled out the tiny little vent hole slightly and added a newer style Volvo breather fitting and filter. Be careful drilling, I don't remember what size bit I use, but the fitting should be a press fit. (Fitting: 8689527) (filter cap: 30681138). Sealed with Volvo Pink Anerobic. Moving on to the differential, I used a wire wheel to clean up as much of the surface rust as possible. used some rust converter and painted it. It's not great, but looks miles better than before. Here are the seals that I used for the Differential: (Axles x2: 8653928) and (Pinion: 9143287). Installation was fairly straightforward although I'm still trying to verify the pinion nut torque so I can finish that up. More Volvo pink stuff: Diff cover installed and new mounting bushings installed. Don't mind the extreme mess. It had been a long day and it's cleaned up now. I worked on the axles for a while and couldn't find a good way to remove the boots at the larger ends. Basically I gave up trying to take them apart and rebuild. They rarely seem to fail and if there is an issue later on, I'll just source some lower mile used ones. I can't justify spending $400+ each for new ones when these still seem fine. I tried to inject some more grease under the small end of the boot, but it didn't go all that well, hoping that I got enough in there to prolong the life for a while longer. I did clean up the rusty inner and outer drivers and POR15 them and cleaned up and removed the rust on the shaft and painted them with some leftover engine paint I had laying around. Probably won't hold up forever, but looks good enough for now. I also cleaned up and de-greased the fuel tank and surge tank. . I installed the new fuel pump (9470674) and Ejector (9478840). I also started playing with the fuel lines. Apeacock was nice enough to send me some extra line-to-pump fittings from the junkyard, but unfortunately like my originals, most of them were too damaged to use once removed and the factory lines removed. I went in to the local parts store armed with my fuel pumps, lock rings, fittings, etc. and spent a great deal of time sorting through their quick connect fittings (This is an old school Car Quest store that is family run and always seems to have oddball stuff like this readily available. Don't bother at Advance, Auto Zone, etc, as I just got blank stares). Anyways, they had 5/16" quick connect 90 degree plastic fittings that fit on the pumps and came very close to being tall enough with the lock rings installed. I did have to use the Dremel and shave just a little bit off of the lock ring where the lines pass over it, but only a couple mm at most shouldn't affect the structural rigidity of the lock rings at all. I'm very excited to have another option besides used factory fittings. They had 2 in stock, and I have 2 more that should arrive tomorrow. I forgot the brand, but I'll get the brand and part number when I pick up the others. I also (after quite the learning curve) figured out how to properly attach the nylon lines to these fittings. At this point, I only have the center crossover pipe on the tank done, but I'll be re-doing all of the lines with 5/16 nylon and replacing nearly all of the rusty metal lines. Pictures are just of test fit. Lastly, I installed the 6 bushings into the subframe. (2x each of Volvo: 1387226, and 9140469, as well as 1x Superpro kit: SPF2012K) This was a fairly time consuming process, but went decently well all things considered using a standard ball joint screw press like you would rent from the parts store. I did have to custom make a weird shaped plate to help install the smaller upper arm bushings as there is nowhere on the subframe for the press to push against unless you make a special plate. Makes more sense when you see it I guess. Also froze the bushings before pressing them in to help just that little bit. Also remember to liberally lube the middle shaft on any of the polyurethane bushings to avoid squeaking. I used grease from Energy suspension. And all of them done! Powder coated parts should be done in the next couple of days and the last large shipment of parts shows being shipped at the end of last week. Gotta keep chipping away at this and hopefully I'll have it back on the road before winter. Edited October 2, 2017 by tuner4life 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted October 2, 2017 Report Share Posted October 2, 2017 Awesome work Jason!! Thanks for posting so many pictures and detailed info on all the work you're doing. I'm really happy you were able to find fittings for the fuel lines too! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted October 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 (edited) Thanks Andy! Just trying to be thorough since so few people have done this project and even fewer have made helpful threads about it or found solutions to Volvo's design flaws and discontinued parts Last night wasn't as productive as I had hoped. I cleaned up the rear upper heat shield and used some 3m metal duct-work tape to patch over where the mounting holes had corroded too large. That tape sticks amazingly well, so hopefully it will hold up in this case. I then installed it with stainless washers and new speed nuts. After installing them I doused the mounting points in silver rustoleum. Is all this overkill? Maybe.. Maybe not. Time will tell. Next, these endlinks arrived yesterday. Long story short, I had ordered 2 end links, 4 washers, 2 nuts, and the mounting hardware all OEM from FCP. Well they shipped me 1 link and all the hardware with my last order and refunded the other link as they could not source a second. Upon further research, I found these on ebay for less than half the price for the OEMs, and they seem to be fairly high quality. Yesterday I sent the OEM end link and all the hardware back to FCP for a refund. In summary, Buy these from Ebay instead of OEM because they are (1) actually available, and (2) half the cost while looking like quality parts. I am awaiting the arrival of the other quick connect fittings after work today, and I just got word that my powder coated parts will not be ready until Friday now. Also going back and forth with Volvopartswebstore.com as their tracking number they gave me several days ago doesn't show my parts shipping yet. Yay... Best of all. The tentative group buy from FB for the AWD downpipes has not started yet and according to the person making them, they may not be available for another 6+ weeks. I have sourced an angle flange turbo, but at this point, I may wait until after winter to install it. I might keep the straight flange turbo over the winter and re-install my janky patched up stock downpipe for now and then make that swap in the spring as I probably won't have the downpipe until after it could potentially be snowing. Here's a picture of the turbo because I'm excited to at least look at it until I can install... Since I was running out of things that I had the parts to do, and needed a change of scenery, I hopped on the creeper and rolled up under the front end of the car. I have some work to do up there as well, but I wanted to check out the bushing where the steering column goes through the floorboard as it has been squeaking for a while. I was going to pull the white bushing out and inspect it. Maybe grease it, maybe replace it.. Well imagine my surprise when I dig into it and the bushing is just gone. upon further inspection, it had fallen all the way down and was now down around the u-joint down by the rack. also completely chewed up and ruined. Guess that explains why it squeaks when I turn. Looks like the Volvo number has been superseded to 9461285 which is the whole boot with a different style bearing on it. Does that sound correct? I probably need to get one coming. Also, while I was there I found that the dust cap on the steering rack below the column had gone missing and it was kind of a greasy/dirty mess inside of there. I sprayed it out the best I could and cleaned up the area. I'm going to pack it with grease and source a new dust cap. I measured the bore at 32-33mm. Hopefully the rack isn't damaged from the missing cap. (Yes, I know that area is absolutely filthy. I haven't gotten around to de-greasing the front end yet). Edited October 3, 2017 by tuner4life 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Will Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 I'm so impressed by the care you're taking to prep and then protect all the parts. Well done! Maybe someone else can chime in but I thought you can use a more standard sealant on the rear diff just like on the gearbox and angle gear rather than the Volvo anaerobic stuff? I can't think of the stuff I have but I'm pretty sure it's gray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 Just a heads up, replacement poly endlink bushings from IPD are like $6. I have a set sitting in a bag for when I put my IPD bar on the 00 R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted October 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 (edited) Thanks Will, I have a mix of undiagnosed ADD and OCD that really makes me overthink everything on a project like this, It's a blessing and a curse really.. Plus we plan on keeping this car basically forever and there is nothing I hate more than having to do a big job like this more than once. As for the sealant, there may be a more conventional sealant for the diff cover, but anymore, if I need to seal 2 machined surfaces together (especially in oil applications) then I just use the Volvo pink sealant. I swear by that stuff anymore. I've used it on Toyotas, Saabs, etc. What finally made me a believer was a leaking timing cover on my 1992 Saab 9000. I had it off and on several times and could never completely keep it from leaking. I had been using the Volvo pink sealant on oil pans and cam covers on Volvos for years and figured I would give it a try on the Saab just to see if it worked and ta-da. No more leaks. Maybe there is a different recommended option, but I know this will work lol. Andy, My IPD sway bar set came with poly bushings. I'll be using the IPD bushings with these links as they seem to be higher quality. My original links were too rusty to re-use. Last night I went to the parts store to pick up the other 2 quick connect fuel fittings that were on order and found that the design had evidently changed and the ones that arrived were a few mm shorter than the 2 I had been previously given. Shoot! I did get the information for the ones I got the first time. They are made by K-tool International, part number: kti-05105. They look to still be available online (you need the ones with the green clip, the ones the parts store got had a gray clip and were shorter). I'll be ordering the remaining 2 online. More later. Edited October 4, 2017 by tuner4life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Will Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 Haha fair enough. The Volvo stuff does work amazingly well I agree. When Ben and I were doing my engine rebuild we initially tried to use the Victor Reinz equivalent just to install the brass vent on the angle gear (same mod that you and did to the rear diff) and it did absolutely nothing...I might as well have just put a dab of water on it. Then we used the Volvo stuff and case closed. Oh and for the rear swaybar endlinks, I believe that Moog also makes them and sometimes Rockauto has those so that's a quality option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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