Tuner4life's 1998 Saffron V70R

[andyb5]

Jason, incredible work and you've done an impressive job documenting everything for the rest of the forum!! 

This is the thread I most anticipate updates to each time I log on here. Keep up the great work sir!!!

[tuner4life]

Thanks Andy! I'm mostly doing it so I can reference it later for myself if I need to, but hopefully it will help folks down the road too.

 

Got the latest batch of parts from FCP yesterday.

OEM wheel bearings: 9140844

OEM snap rings for wheel bearings: 914542.  (I did have to take a grinder to these and chamfer the edge ever so slightly so that they will snap into place. The hard edge they came with wouldn't fit in the groove without a little tweaking)

 

Also installed the freshly powder coated heat shields and some of the e-brake hardware:

Hardware pack: Pro Parts Sweden: 51990722 

 

Here are the rear knuckles assembled and ready to install. I'm likely going to wait until the subframe is mounted in the car to install these as the heat shields will crush against the ground the way it is now

The odd bushing/stud thing that attaches the top of the knuckle to the UCA has been discontinued from Volvo and I can't find a good part number for them at this point. With some help from someone on the forum I was able to source a pair of aftermarket versions from ebay. Good luck finding this one. If anyone wants to chime in with more info about those, please do.

 

Also installed a new FAG hub assembly and new bolts in the front left knuckle. I replaced the right side 2 years ago, so did this one for good measure while it is apart. I didn't grab the part numbers but they are easy to find anywhere.

 

Lastly I installed the differential/VC assembly into the subframe and bolted the top part of the subframe back on. The old bolts were in good shape so I just cleaned them up and reused them.

 

 

 

Edited October 18, 2017 by tuner4life

[tuner4life]

Didn't do much last night, just removed the old turbo.. It was pretty disgusting While there were no major leaks, it must have been seeping for a while.. The new one with the angle flange had a much larger exhaust outlet. I'm stoked about that!

 

 

 

Also, I was putting together an FCP order for any gaskets and hardware needed to put the new turbo on and I have a few questions..

-First of all, The gasket between the turbo and manifold (part number 8642450). Seen in the link here: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-turbocharger-gasket-8642450oe. Is this necessary? I'm getting mixed information whether or not I should use this. There wasn't a gasket when I took the old turbo off.

-Next question: As a basic rule, I always try to replace any bolts/studs/nuts with new when working with exhaust systems. However, when I started pricing these I was kind of in shock. The 4 studs from the turbo to manifold, plus the 3 studs between the turbo and downpipe, plus well as the 7 nuts total over $120!!! That seems more than a bit ridiculous. Is there any reason why I should be using OEM as opposed to sourcing the studs and prevailing torque lock washers at the local parts store?

 

 

for that price I'll just re-use the old ones lol

Edited October 19, 2017 by tuner4life

[andyb5]

No gasket between manifold and turbo. 

I used aftermarket turbo hardware (studs, nuts etc) when I installed my rebuilt head/R manifold. Seems to be holding up fine so far and cost a few dollars total instead of a few dollars each for OEM hardware.

[tuner4life]

That's what I was hoping to hear. Thanks again!

[apeacock]

I say yes on the gasket for the manifold to turbo. Also make sure to get a c30 one piece gasket if you're taking off the manifold. 

Check out Mcmaster carr. they have a large selection of this stuff and you can find all the studs you'll ever need. 

[tuner4life]

I'll grab the gasket, that's only $4 or something. Worst case I don't use it and return it to FCP with the box of other unneeded parts that I've accumulated over the course of this project.  I checked at 2 local parts stores last night and they both failed to have any reasonable options for exhaust studs. I was pretty disappointed. So then I went to my new favorite place for hardware. The local ACE Hardware. They are under new ownership and have a huge metric nut/bolt/misc section. I was able to find the studs I needed (specifically treated for exhaust) as well as the nuts. All for about $25 as opposed to $120 buying OEM. 

 

Last night, since the Angle gear, CV shafts, Driveshaft, Turbo, Downpipe, etc.. Are all currently out of the car, I decided it was the most ideal time I would get to change out the front sway bar, steering column bearing/boot in the floor, and the throttle cable.

The throttle cable is done, and the old sway bar is removed. Then I spent most of the rest of my time trying to get the column bearing/boot out. The old nylon sleeve was in such bad shape that it had actually fallen out and was hanging down by the rack. I ended up actually unbolting the rack from the subframe in an attempt to figure it out.. Once I had it all apart, I realized that wasn't exactly necessary, but oh well. Now I know how it all goes back together anyways. Going to replace the o-rings where the lines go into the rack while it's apart.

 

This is the revised part number for the column bushing/boot thing. The original uses a nylon bushing in place of the metal bearing seen here and they are known to squeak, creak, and fall out when turning the steering wheel. Supposedly all of the problems are cured with this new version.

Part number: 9461285

 

And installed in the floor. It just pulls out from the inside.

 

This is a lazy picture of the new throttle cable installed (among other messes).. I don't remember the part number but it's easily found on FCP's site.

 

Subframe dropped, front sway bar removed, rack unbolted. Needing de-greased badly. Also small spot of surface rust by head shield will be tended to while I'm in there.

 

 

Edited October 20, 2017 by tuner4life

[tuner4life]

Not sure why the picture turned out so bad, but my Yother rear toe arms showed up yesterday. They are pretty!! I'm going to try to source some Seals-it boots for the heim joints so they don't get ruined as quick in the weather.

 

 

 

I also got my exhaust solution on the way thanks to Apeacock! Can't wait for it to arrive. Also expecting what is likely the last box of parts from FCP for this project today as well as a set of like-new (<1k miles) Yellow Konis that I scored off of Swedespeed.  At this point the only parts I still need to buy are brakes and the driveshaft.

 

[Andzey]

Do you need those Yother toe arms due to toasted OEMs or need adjusting geometry of rear wheels because of reduced ride height?

Imho only those boots that completely encloses uniball head portion will work, not any of those rubber washers etc

[tuner4life]

I got the Yother arms because the originalss were very rusty and I didn't trust them much longer, plus the car will be a bit lower and like the idea of adjustability. Not to mention that the Yother arms significantly cheaper than buying OEM.  I'm not even thinking about the washers, I will get the boots that completely seal the joint. I've had heim joints on my drift car for years and without boots, they only last about a season due to dirt getting into them. Lifespan is reduced significantly the first time you drive in the rain uncovered.

I am having an issue with the Yother arms though, going to email him today. I went to test fit them over the weekend and the hole on the outer joint was too small by 2mm. the mounting stud coming off the knuckle is 18mm as is the hole in the original arm. The Yother arm hole was 16mm. 

 

 

Besides that, I did manage to get the steering rack reinstalled, the column bearing/boot thing replaced, IPD front sway bar installed, new OEM control arms installed, and the subframe and engine mounts all bolted back together.

 

 

 

I then worked more on the rear subframe. I re-installed the cv axles, filled the diff, installed the knuckles 

To install the knuckle:

lower bolt: 985200 (This part is not correct, diameter issue. I re-used old bolt)

Lower nut: 985870

Nut to attach to top control arm to joint: 985660

 

 

Then I set the tank straps on the subframe and positioned the tank. Spent the rest of my time for the weekend getting the fuel system done. I replaced all metal lines with either nylon line for the high pressure stuff, or fuel rated rubber hose for the vent stuff. There was a lot of measuring, routing, and arranging to make it all fit and lay nice. Don't mind the blue loom. It was all I had on hand at the time.

Also, Duct tape is temporary while I was working on forming the nylon lines

 

 

 

I need to clean things up a little bit, but I think the subframe is ready to be installed back into the car! 

 

 

[Andzey]

I am like a nanometer away from ordering purple Euro type nivos for my AWD, so cant wait you reviewing their drive capabilities, including IPD sway and all new bushings.

As to the front axle, I replaced the front subframes of both my P80 AWDs to the T-5 FWD style, because 1) I generally like the control arm design of FWD more than AWD, 2) it is much easier to replace the FWD control arms - I mean loosening, replacing and tightening the bolts

3) most important! when FWD control arm bushings are tightened while car laying on the ground (full weight on the wheels) the rubber remains relaxed (not stretched) and receives  only minimum squeeze during shock movement up/down while if the control arm bushings are tightened with the wheels lifted, the bushing rubber gets squeezed when car is released in its normal drive height. Got the idea? Also the AWD style control arm bushings are pressed in the control arms not in the same angle the control arm is located to the subframe most of its lifespan.

Therefore the AWD bushings and tightened-while-lifted FWD bushings dies far more quicker than properly tightened FWD ones. 

On that Yother 16mm issue - cant that stud be reduced to 16mm in a lathe? Or the arm hole is to be re-drilled to 18mm? Btw your OEM bushing seems black rubber. I just remembered that mines were white like poly. And those were OEMs

Edited October 30, 2017 by Andzey

[tuner4life]

I am also very excited to drive this thing! Unfortunately I likely won't be able to thoroughly enjoy the upgrades until spring because at this point I'm probably going to put the snow tires on it right away. It will snow here soon and I don't want to ruin the Comets.. If I get a chance before it snows I'll throw them on and see how it handles, but I assume it will be a sloppy mess outside by the time this is driveable.

I think the control arms that you are referring to are from earlier cars (1997 and earlier). It doesn't seem to matter if its FWD or AWD since both my 1998 C70 and the 1998 V70R both have the 4 bolt control arms, but the in-laws 1997 850 has the 2 bolt arms. Worst case, if these fail they are covered by FCP's lifetime warranty. I'll just send them back for new ones.

The stud is actually part of the cast rear knuckle. It would be very hard to mill that down considering where it is. Plus I don't want to weaken the casting by making it thinner. I would rather bore the bushing sleeve, but considering that I just paid a chunk of change for these under the assumption that they would fit, I feel like the issue should be resolved by Yother. I sent him an email this morning, but have not heard back yet.  

[Blockpartie]

@tuner4life:

All first generation C70 models (coupé and convertible) have 4 bolt control arms, as do all P80 AWD models (850, S70, V70) and all P80 cars equipped with a diesel engine (850, S70, V70). In those cases the model year does not matter.

What kind of clamps are you using? It almost looks like the normal style with the punched through holes. I'd recommend changing these to smooth-type ones. A lot of the original hose clamps were supplied by ABA and are of the smooth, e.g. no punched through holes, type. They are more expensive but reduce stress in the contact area. They make a few different variants, with rolled over edge, stainless etc. but the original variant with blue top is more or less what was factory. Be careful as to not get fakes as those for some reason do exist.

I'd also recommend rethinking the use of cable ties. Unless you used special ones with rounded edges and a smooth inside they will damage whatever they hold together over time. Vibrations, and as this is a car that's 100% guaranteed, will allow the cable tie to rub and slightly move around. As the cable tie is often made form a harder material, the longer this goes on the more the underlying material gets roughed up. At some point failure happens. Your pictures show slight bending of the fuel filler neck hose so that will be a likely failure point. Btw: That hose is no longer available...

[Big Will]

Finding those fuel hoses for the AWDs is definitely becoming challenging to put it mildly!

[tuner4life]

Yes these hoses are all very difficult to find anymore, and the few that are available are stupid expensive. That's why i decided to make most of them on my own. Anything pressurized is nylon and all the new rubber is fuel rated stuff. The only original hose is the large fuel filler because I couldn't source a replacement for a reasonable cost and the original part was in surprisingly good shape.  I also did away with all of the metal lines since this car is driven in the winter. 

Most of the clamps used here are smooth on the inside (Dorman usually). However the clamps on the fuel fill hoses are standard style stainless screw clamps. I've used them on many applications (usually cooling systems) that are much higher pressure than a fuel filler hose and have never had a problem. Sure if you over-tighten them they will cut and dig into the hose but this isn't my first rodeo. I'm not doing a concourse restoration, I don't need blue hose clamps when these will work just fine. Shoot, the original clamps had to be broken off with pliers because they had corroded so badly. 

You do have a point about the zip ties. I should revisit the areas where a zip tie contacts a nylon tube because I could see that being an issue. Probably should be in a protective sheath before being tied up. Same with the vent hose parallel to the fuel filler, that one does look a bit tight. I wasn't sure how much room I would have between the car and tank so everything is tied up so it won't move and get pinched during install. The rest of the lines and hoses should be fine. Much better option than letting everything flop around. That tubing kind of has a mind of its own!  Plus I don't crank them down so tight that they cut in to the hoses. I spend a lot of time around drift cars and you would be amazed what zip ties can do. lmao

 

Edited October 31, 2017 by tuner4life