Blockpartie Posted November 16, 2017 Report Share Posted November 16, 2017 Congratulations on completing the project. It's great that you took the time to take pictures and generally share this experience with us. Best of luck with the car. May it bring joy to you for many years to come. About the ABS: Could be as simple as the big connector not making contact. Either because it's not locked in right, a terminal got damaged (bent / corrosion) or a broken wire. Damage to the pump wiring due to corrosion/aging of the insulation is also a possibility. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liquidgnome Posted November 16, 2017 Report Share Posted November 16, 2017 This whole thread has been incredibly inspirational. I've got a fairly significant project coming in spring for my v70r, but even then, nothing about an M66 swap looks as complex as the work you did dropping the rear subframe and rebuilding it, much less the attention to detail you've shown in every other facet of the project. Thank you so much for your pictures and your explanations of your thought process. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted November 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 (edited) Thanks everyone! Happy to be close to the end! Unfortunately however, I'm not out of the woods yet. I got off work yesterday and immediately went to the shop to tweak with a couple things on the wagon, then I was going to load the family up and go into town for some Ice cream. Unfortunately that did not happen. As soon as I walked into the shop I smelled gas and my heart sank. There was a pretty good size puddle of gas under the back of the car and after a quick look around, it seems that it is actually leaking from both sides around the pump and sender. I am still not positive where it's leaking from, but I'm 95% sure it's the junk aftermarket Dorman fuel fittings. It wasn't leaking after I filled the tank and drove around the other night, it started after it set in the shop overnight. I wonder if it warmed up a little and pressurized the tank more than it had been before. Who knows. Either way, I'm going to be dropping the tank as much as possible and replacing the craptastic plastic Dorman junk with the spare stock quick connect ends that I should have used the first time around (nomatter how crusty they look, they are still likely better than aftermarket). Also going to be replacing the lock rings and seals just for good measure. Not really how I wanted to spend this weekend, but oh well... Edited November 17, 2017 by tuner4life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blockpartie Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 Aww... that sucks. Is the puddle under the car the result of two drips or did you determine it has to be leaking on both sides due to the size of the puddle? I too suffered a leak and noticed it only when I came back to a small puddle. A closer look revealed the issue to be with the feed line connection near the fuel filter. I had some trouble pinpointing the leak as the fuel had been blown all over the rear axle and exhaust during driving. Reseated it and it was fine. Ofcourse a short while later the actual metal line failed... Point is: Maybe the connector wasn't seated 100% and loosed from the fuel pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBoy8 Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 The wagon is looking gorgeous! Nice work. Bummer that you'll have to drop the tank and investigate again but I'm sure you'll get it sorted out. You guys are doing a real good job at making me miss my wagon. v_v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted November 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 (edited) Thanks guys. It's definitely leaking on both sides. The metal "cup" on the top of each fuel pump assembly is actually collecting gas on both sides. Just checked and the lock rings/seals are not readily available from anywhere and I really want to get this fixed this weekend so I'm going to lock in my bet that it's the quick connectors. I picked the 4 best OEM quick connections out of my originals and the 4 that Apeacock sent me. I wire wheeled them up a little bit and I think they will be suitable. Now I just need to figure out the best way to install them into the nylon lines while under the car and without setting everything on fire. Wish me luck. Edited November 17, 2017 by tuner4life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 Sorry to hear that. I had so many gas leaks after I replaced my fuel pump, but my issues were self-inflicted when I had to remove the OEM bulkhead wire fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted November 18, 2017 Report Share Posted November 18, 2017 Can you drain more of the gas out? Take off the front line by the engine or even the connector leading to the fuel filter and use that to pump all the gas out. Wish it was a 99 you could turn on the circuit with vida. do you think the larger rubber quick connects would work? the kind found around the filter housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted November 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 (edited) I had more of a chance to mess with this over the weekend. I was pretty sure that the fittings were leaking because the bowls on top of each pump assembly were filling with fuel. Originally I dropped the front of the tank as much as I could by itself but it was still hard to see the smoking gun. As a quick test, I pulled the crossover tube that runs between the 2 pumps and replaced the fittings with the original style. I could pull that tube off and swap them on the bench. Was hoping to get lucky. Put some more gas in and had the same results. This was after about an hour with gas in the tanks: After sleeping on it I decided to go ahead and drop the whole subframe again. I left some things hooked up, but was able to drop it straight down under the car to gain enough clearance to get to the top of the tank if I needed to, as well as see the fuel pump buckets straight on. This time I was smarter about it and made a jig out of 2x4s that fastens to my transmission jack. This allowed me to drop the subframe, tank, and rear section of the exhaust all at the same time. This made things much more efficient and it only took about 2 hours to have the whole thing back out. Finally being able to get a good look at the pumps. I filled the tank back up and crawled back under to watch. Wouldn't you know... The lock rings are actually the culprit. I figured that since the cups were filling, that it was an issue with the lines, but the lock rings were not just leaking on the outside, they were leaking between the senders and rings as well which was filling up the cups. As seen here: I feel kind of dumb about the whole thing. I should have replaced the tank seals and lock rings the first time around, but they looked fine and I've never had an issue with this type of thing before. Also I should have just used the original fuel fittings like others had recommended. I figured that new > old, and maybe they still do, but I don't trust anything down there anymore.. The good news is that with my jig, I'll be able to replace the parts and fill the tank up before re-installing everything. I'll be able to see right away if there is an issue. So.. I've ordered the tank seals and lock rings. They should be here early next week die to Thanksgiving. I'm going to go ahead and swap the outer quick connect fittings to the originals too just to rule out the plastic fittings and also because I don't want to have to notch the new lock rings. This is only a 3 day week and there is no snow scheduled so I'll continue to drive the C70 for now. I had some vacation left over that I'm required to burn before the end of the year, so I'm taking all of next week off. Parts should arrive early in the week so there is absolutely no reason why this shouldn't be fixed and back on the road during that time. I cannot describe how ready I am to be done with this project and move on to other things lol. Edited November 20, 2017 by tuner4life 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 If you have an opportunity to grab some M12x1.75 threaded rods, put one in each of the 4 larger bolt locations in the chassis. It makes reinstalling the subframe so much easier. Glad you found the source of the leak and it's an easy fix! Did you buy the actual tool to install those lockrings or are you using channel locks/pliers like I did? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted November 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Good call on the threaded rod. That's a great idea! I didn't even know there was a special tool for the lock rings. I just tightened them down with one of those oil filter strap wrenches with the rubber strap. I wonder if there is a special torque setting or something? I want to do it right this time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 I'm sure there is a torque spec for the lock ring, but I have no idea what it is. Here's the tool: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11580/124535-fuel-tank-lock-ring-tool Make sure the fuel pump seal is fully seated in the tank before tightening the lock ring - I had a hard time getting the seals aligned at first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted November 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 Yeah, the pumps have a spring inside of them that keeps them pushed against the bottom of the tank. It takes some pressure to hold them tight against the tank when installing the lock ring. I'll bet they got twisted upon install. I'll have to pay more attention this time. It's just stressful waiting for such a cheap part that's holding up the whole project lol. Especially when you're not even sure how you screwed them up so bad in the first place. In the mean time, I have been working on converting over to winter mode: -Comets off, Andrasteas w/ snow tires on -R front bumper off, Junk spare bumper on (was running a C70 bumper, but a junk yard near me has (2) XC70s in the yard as of a week ago. Hoping that I can grab a good front bumper. Should fit the car much better than the C70 one) -Roof rack cross bars on for no real reason besides I finally fixed the broken mounting clamps -IPD skid plate on order -Sprayed Fluid film up inside of the rockers and a few other body crevices Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted November 22, 2017 Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 I had luck removing my s70s lock ring with one of the larger sized oil filter wrenches, red handle with little teeth on either end of the claws. Though that style pump doesn't sit with gas resting on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted November 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 I took this week off work so I'm posting this from the waiting room while the V70R is getting aligned. Moral of the story is that you have to be very attentive when installing the pumps and lock rings. The seal on both sides got pinched inside of the ring. Pushing the pump against the tank when installing the ring prevented this problem the second time around. Here are the old seals. You can see where they were pinched: All dry now. Also swapped to the original fittings so I wouldn't have to notch the new lock rings: All seems good now. Made some final adjustments last night and ended up raising the back up by a couple washers (guessing around 3-4 mm because it was rubbing very badly. I'll post more later, but went to the junk yard on Saturday and found 2x XC70s so I grabbed a bunch of stuff. More on that later. Excited to drive this thing with a proper alignment! Stuff I got from the 2 XC70s at the junk yard: -Xc bumper for winter use w/ all undertrays. -Shields under the rear between body and gas tank. (Mine never had these since I owned it!) -Rear mud flaps in front of back wheels -Interior hatch door panels that aren't shattered all to hell like mine -Completely unbroken and fully complete cup holder for the console armrest! -Spare ABS module from a 1998 XC. -Ring around ignition cyl. (Mine was broken) -Chrome glove box handle -Lighted dome light switches from 2000 XC -Early style XC grille that I will be selling. -Misc other small stuff Random pictures in no particular order: After raising the rear a couple mm: Unobtainium: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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