lookforjoe Posted December 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 More work done on the lower intake. Cleaning up the outer rough casting as well. Always better to be prepared... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted December 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 Still more work on the lower runner - pretty much just clean up after this round cleaning up the top side standard rough cast 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruhl98t5wag Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 Let's see the tool kit all in one place please. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 On 12/3/2015, 7:56:38, lookforjoe said: Thanks. Didn't know that about PA. Makes sense, though - on how clean the car is. Started work on cleaning & mild porting of a lower intake manifold. Since the Elevate has larger ports, figured I might as well take advantage.... NY uses salt on the roads, I believe PA only uses sand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing3 Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 Western pa is like a salt lick in the winter, unless temps are below 17f Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted December 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 3 hours ago, Ruhl98t5wag said: Let's see the tool kit all in one place please. Thanks Not sure what you mean - what I'm using to clean it up? I can take a pic later. Basically it's carbide burr tools, than dremel sanding drums then different grades of sandpaper then wet&dry sandpaper, then steel / copper wool, then rubbing compound with a dremel wheel, then by hand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 6 hours ago, apeacock said: NY uses salt on the roads, I believe PA only uses sand. there is plenty of salt and brine on the roads here in south east pa... I see more salt here then I did living in Syracuse... but people in Syracuse actually knew how to drive in the snow for the most part The manifold looks great! I too would like to see the tool kit you used... dremel and drill with many attachments? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruhl98t5wag Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 6 hours ago, lookforjoe said: Not sure what you mean - what I'm using to clean it up? I can take a pic later. Basically it's carbide burr tools, than dremel sanding drums then different grades of sandpaper then wet&dry sandpaper, then steel / copper wool, then rubbing compound with a dremel wheel, then by hand Yes the descending tool kit for smoothing the casting surface. I have carbide burrs, dremel bits, and paper, just want to see a kit from someone who has labored this job efficiently. I'm going to do one this winter-Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
854TGA+ Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 Awesome car and content as usual H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted December 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 2 hours ago, Ruhl98t5wag said: Yes the descending tool kit for smoothing the casting surface. I have carbide burrs, dremel bits, and paper, just want to see a kit from someone who has labored this job efficiently. I'm going to do one this winter-Thanks This is the mess getting there - still have a little cleanup inside - follow the casting lines spent some more time on the outside. Not sure why I'm bothering - 99% is not visible. Trouble is, once I start, it's hard to stop 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 You're a maniac! looks great though. We are all looking forward to watching your progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Slowly making some changes. New right side mount removed the 'shock load damper' from the clutch vent pipe ready for when I do the Wavetrac/Spec Clutch install Working on a larger IC Welded the EBP bung to the K16 Manifold Installed modded lower runner, new breather box Fitted the S60R spare - need it to clear the BBK's. Had to make new hinges for the cargo cover QTP Exhaust Cutout will be going back here KYB adjustable rear shocks Worked on the exhaust yesterday. Cut off the stock exhaust & made a 3" SS section to run from the Mototec DP back to where the cutout will end up. Didn't like the transition from the 3" DP to the 2 3/8" stock rear section. Going to use a smooth transisiton 3" - 2.5" step coupler after the Vband to connect with the rear section. Down the road I can swap out the entire rear and make a 3" setup if need be. Used 2 Pypes Performance Exhaust SS PVM4590-30 & 1 Pypes Exhaust SS Mandrel Bends PVM3018-30. 1 Vibrant 1473S 2 Blt SS Exhaust Flg 3", 1 Vibrant 1458 2-Bolt High Temperature Exhaust Gasket. 1 x 3-2.5" SS step coupler . 1 x SS 3" Vband Step coupler will go on the old pipe, with a V band to connect to the 3" section 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyrken Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Nice car! But.. Dont use that crappy chinese intercooler! The ones from EuCD platform is basically bolt on and a great upgrade! Especially if they are from VEA generation. We have one working great on a 500 hp S40 T5 AWD. Also the intercooler from V40 is quite good and should be a very simple install (i.e. even more "basically bolt on"). (my thought on the DO88 ones are that they are heavy and thats why they work for a shorter pull but they are not so good in getting down in temp afterwards = not good on a track car). Nice with the exhaust upgrade! We have run a quite stock T5 with 3,5" downpipe and 2,5" rear and that hade quite the back pressure due to the high flow the K16 is able to generate. 3,5" works all the way on AWD and with cut-out is a very good system where the large silencer in the rear could be bypassed all together but still using the exhaust tip. BR Erik 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Some of my welds aren't so pretty - Still getting practice welding SS. It's way easier than Aluminum, but seems pickier about having a clean tungsten. My near vision in low light is not good, so even with reading glasses I can end up wandering ;) I'm using the stock rear can for now. This way I have no drone unless I open the cutout :) I can build a rear section & just tie it to the Vband I added over the rear suspension later on. Got the step down, V band and cut out dump tube welded today May have to extend the cutout shroud to make sure the exhaust doesn't melt the inner fender liner rear lip. I ran the wiring through the rear panel where the license plate harness exits the cargo area. Can't get the frigging grommet back in place - the access hole is just a little to offset relative to the grommet hole, and there's not enough space between the tie bar and the rear sheet metal to get my arm up that high. I'll figure it out later. Coming down with whatever bad cold/flu the Mrs. has, so everything today took twice as long as it should have. I also nudged the alignment of the Vband on the rear section after I marked it all up, which has the effect of kicking the right side tailpipe about 1/2" or so further out than the left. Very annoying. No way to fudge it, as there is no wiggle room with lipped Vband flanges. So , I'll probably remove the right tail pipe & reweld it in the correct orientation. What I need to do first, is wire the cutout. I need to find a 12v switched power supply in the cargo area for the wireless transmitter. Any ideas? I don't really want to run wires all the way through the cabin unnecessarily. 1 hour ago, fyrken said: Nice car! But.. Dont use that crappy chinese intercooler! The ones from EuCD platform is basically bolt on and a great upgrade! Especially if they are from VEA generation. We have one working great on a 500 hp S40 T5 AWD. Also the intercooler from V40 is quite good and should be a very simple install (i.e. even more "basically bolt on"). (my thought on the DO88 ones are that they are heavy and thats why they work for a shorter pull but they are not so good in getting down in temp afterwards = not good on a track car). Nice with the exhaust upgrade! We have run a quite stock T5 with 3,5" downpipe and 2,5" rear and that hade quite the back pressure due to the high flow the K16 is able to generate. 3,5" works all the way on AWD and with cut-out is a very good system where the large silencer in the rear could be bypassed all together but still using the exhaust tip. BR Erik What year S40 IC are you reffering to? VEA Gen? Any pics? I'm waiting for Bell Intercooler to get back to me on a revised design of their original IC - the one DO88 copies. The one in the pic is 8x3.5x24" core, with a deflector added to the inlet to push air up. Can't be worse than the Elevate I have no, which is tube & fin, and reportedly not great for the K16 if DO88's graphs are accurate. No reason to believe that are not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blockpartie Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 He is referring to cars that have the new engine generation - ''Volvo Engine Architecture'' or VEA for short. All EuCD cars e.g. S80 II, V70 / XC70 III, XC60, S60 II, V60 have received those newer engines. The intercoolers used on these cars are very similar in design to what your C30 has (plastik endtanks with the pipes angled back, aluminium core). P/N #31338236 is for the general use intercooler that Volvo installs in all of the above listed cars with the new engines, in this case the models badged as "<car model here> T5". When looking up that part don't be surprised that it is also listed for cars with a diesel engine. Volvo has decided to have one basic engine design for everything, they just bolt on different parts. And change the bore and stroke but that's a different thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.