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On 2/21/2016 at 2:28 PM, fyrken said:

Nice car! We have one working great on a 500 hp S40 T5 AWD.
Also the intercooler from V40 is quite good and should be a very simple install 

Erik

Hi Erik

Do you have links to the S40 using that IC? A bunch of the guys on C30crew don't believe it. I would like to be able to substantiate the claim, so any more info on that car/build would be much appreciated :)

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Ah, the internet doubters! 

Car runs a Focus RS engine with H-beam rods. 
Cams are Enem Y21 profile
4" Air Mass Meter/MAF/HFM (custom housing, same sensor) - really restrictive stock
Turbo is an upgraded Focus RS unit (larger compressor wheel)
4" over the engine pipe (PRD Motorsport, custom)
3,5" exhaust (PRD) with optional bypass of the last muffler
Elevate intake manifold
Elevate boost pipes (had to be adjusted due to not so AWD compatible)
Upgraded fuel pump in stock location (PEM still works)
730cc injectors
E85

Dyno video: scroll down to november 5th 2014
https://www.facebook.com/tmchiptuning/?fref=nf

The dyno readings might be high but we have not yet tested it at PRD's new RotoTest (hub dyno which is known for beeing very accurate). This dyno pull is made in an SF-800 Superflow, which is also a nice machine.

The K16 really likes good airpaths with its quite large inducer compared to exducer and it also shows in the compressor diagram. With the 4" MAF and plumbing pressure drop before compressor is very low and they really like this. The cams help with reducing boost which also improves the turbo and compressor outlet temperatures. 3,5" exhaust also helps but main power comes from the E85 fuel. Lower EGT's, lower backpressure, earlier spool and essentially the possibility to run the engine on MBT.

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31338236 IC arrived this morning. It is in fact brand new, so I'm happy with the price :)

41572FDB-A00A-4CEF-95F1-D2637C417F57_zps

Side by side with stock C30 IC

E680E6A4-22F9-46A1-A65F-34773EA5DE41_zps

C655DFCE-87A6-47DB-979F-9B8747589453_zps

Fin density comparison

C30 stock

A248ACC5-7DB9-4F43-BD4C-6C2131C98F1F_zps

31338236

DEBF2A36-626B-46B8-B156-4B663AF5E9CE_zps

Newer fin design has finer fluting to help dissipate airflow through IC

8EC6F9BC-2E10-45F3-9F73-6CBD9A33F027_zps

I/O size difference:

stock 52mm bore
BA99D7C3-30B0-4D86-B23E-6300F7E3F3F4_zps

newer 31338236 58mm bore
9F33A0E5-B74E-41EC-947C-96AD3D150D81_zps

2.5" Sliicone will stretch over. Think I'll look for 2.75" - 2.5" step couplers though

D24F31B7-AC47-4DCC-9FD6-2BBB05FF5F1D_zps

depth 3.375"

9FE43A60-C8ED-4FF3-A74F-BDEFEEDE5805_zps

height 6"

D5D6F4A4-6DE0-4B89-92A1-9A0DE81C35AB_zps

End tank - new design includes internal diverter to channel air into core :)

3A4F66DC-4F71-4725-8075-676278BF3AD5_zps

drill 9/16" & tap w/ 3/8" npt

FD839A9B-68FF-4006-9DD1-2C06725AC3A6_zps

fit cut down brass 3/8" NPT bung. cross hatch into IC tank to provide additional bite for epoxy. 3/8" bung has perfect ID for MAP o ring seal (20mm)

D101E281-13F9-4984-A9CA-3E9157FAA209_zps

use MAP retainer grid cut from old IC

6528AB46-A547-4A94-847E-7D3AAF8C8768_zps

JB weld threads of bung & grid to IC tank. 

D81A2937-B070-4AD1-8BEB-50798375093D_zps

will be positioned thus

13BB2E0A-68AF-40B5-ADAD-22341EB245DF_zps

Have to evaluate mount points to frame. Will do that when I'm no longer sick with wahtever flu crap I have now & can work outside.

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Installed the IC today, temps were moderate enough to deal. Elevate IC hoses stretch OK over the 2.75" IC ports. B9A60433-E292-4D0C-B68F-D3120649A4DB_zps

M6 bolts through the lower mount points used to locate the stock IC

C9F9BF8F-E239-43B5-9F6A-7DDE89082D89_zps

7C807066-9EE6-4F97-A944-14CE59EDFF5C_zps

 

One screw through the DS upper mounting point. PS doesn't align.

0FDD6934-A737-47D1-9D3E-B17AF627A538_zps

Lower guide is snug against IC

E79C970F-383E-469D-A1FD-F0E7B0C2B2F6_zps


6F53F66F-01F9-40F9-AD3E-668865B61138_zps

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  • 3 weeks later...
On March 27, 2016 at 8:56 PM, turbobrick said:

seems like it would be easier and more legit to make a pipe for the map sensor and cut the silicone vs modifying a plastic end tank??  

More Legit? Not really. Then you need a coupler between the intercooler and the pipe, and another coupler & pipe.... The silicone hose from the intercooler to the TB doesn't have enough length before the bend to do that. Modifiying an end tank is no biggie if you are careful.

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i've used JB weld on plastic end tanks before, don't get me wrong it will hold.  But it was a temporary solution, the Oil that is thrown accumulates where ever there is any kind of crack/depression and it will wear down the plastic.  Just seems like you're introducing a point of failure to the system, this is no longer fitting into a cast piece and you're pushing quite a bit of pressure at it.  How did the stock solution mount in?  was it threaded?  

I'm not being critical of your work or your solution it just surprised me this is what people opt to do when swapping intercoolers.

Edited by turbobrick
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9 hours ago, turbobrick said:

i've used JB weld on plastic end tanks before, don't get me wrong it will hold.  But it was a temporary solution, the Oil that is thrown accumulates where ever there is any kind of crack/depression and it will wear down the plastic.  Just seems like you're introducing a point of failure to the system, this is no longer fitting into a cast piece and you're pushing quite a bit of pressure at it.  How did the stock solution mount in?  was it threaded?  

I'm not being critical of your work or your solution it just surprised me this is what people opt to do when swapping intercoolers.

If you noticed, I threaded a bung into the intercooler. The JB weld has that additional surface area to secure the outer plate. The JB weld is not securing an end tank - that would be an entirely different issue, and not something I personally would consider. The pressure over that small surface area is nothing like the overall dynamic pressure passing through the system.

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9 hours ago, turbobrick said:

i've used JB weld on plastic end tanks before, don't get me wrong it will hold.  But it was a temporary solution, the Oil that is thrown accumulates where ever there is any kind of crack/depression and it will wear down the plastic.  Just seems like you're introducing a point of failure to the system, this is no longer fitting into a cast piece and you're pushing quite a bit of pressure at it.  How did the stock solution mount in?  was it threaded?  

I'm not being critical of your work or your solution it just surprised me this is what people opt to do when swapping intercoolers.

I JB welded a cracked oil pan on a VW years ago...Lets just say it lasted well...Years. I was a lot younger at the time and would never do that again. But It was sold two years after I used and on the pan and who really knows how long it held up for

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