Jump to content
Volvospeed Forums

lookforjoe

Recommended Posts

11 hours ago, Blockpartie said:

Have you checked if the software is actually installed and the readout says the car is supposed to have foglights? Correct light switch installed?

Been through that. Had the car at the dealership back in 2015 after I bought it. Correct software & switch are present. Foglights would only turn on remotely through Volvo online. Took it back & had the CEM reprogrammed, software reinstalled, same story. I left the car for an entire day last fall, and same story at the end of the day. They said they would have to tear everything apart to determine the fault, which still makes no sense as the foglight wiring is obviously OK,  since they can be remotely activated. 

Anyway, the system doesn't like having wires tacked into the CEM. So far, the only way I can get the fogs to come on & stay on when I want, and turn off with the car is to have a switch on the fog relay ground leg (G:9). 

I found that the 9130270 relay I was trying was actually dead - it was blowing the fuse as soon as the I fed power to 86. Went through the few spare fuses I had (no ATM spares) so I need new fuses before I retry that alternative. The momentary contact 3523804 relay won't work as the built in signal from the C30 fog switch simply powers the relay continuously, so the fogs stay on permanently.

Hopefully the rain will ease up, it's a PITA working in the wet...

BB9B2706-80CA-4243-87DC-3E64BD0AAEFA_zps

 

CEM connectors

D6EEA419-9303-4FC6-9496-54EE5113B9AB_zps

Wiring alternatives

114F4251-0E89-4B7A-84EF-8C83F8E8584F_zps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not a big fan of these new electronics too. Had issues with mine. Thought it was a DIM, then CEM had them both sent to Xemodex and it came back fine, turned out to be a bad power steering controller unit. It was causing the car to stall and all kinds of fault codes that were unrelated. Dealer thought it was a bad ECU, replaced that and still had issues. Then finally traced it to the power steering. Thankfully they didn't charge me for the ECU. This car def has it's advantages over the p80, but traction in the snow is not one of them.

I tried to find the software to have fogs on while my high beams were on but can't find it. I'm sure some of the Euros could tell me it if I dug deep enough, we probably can't get it here... I also had my DRL disabled after I added 55w HIDs. I need to shut my headlights off when I enter my bases checkpoint. Its odd Volvo lets the fogs stay on when you shut the headlights off to parking lights... I upgraded mine fog light bulbs from the 35w h8 to 55w h11. Had HID in for a bit but keep killing the ballasts and when I switch the high beams on and off I'd notice they'd take a bit to come up in brightness so halogen was a much better solution. And you can get the h11 in amber much easier and cheaper then the h8...

Interesting about The Belgium light mods. Not sure I dig the twin rear fogs. That always irked me as others might think it's brakes. But that could be a good thing... LOL!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

Been through that. Had the car at the dealership back in 2015 after I bought it. Correct software & switch are present. Foglights would only turn on remotely through Volvo online. Took it back & had the CEM reprogrammed, software reinstalled, same story. I left the car for an entire day last fall, and same story at the end of the day. They said they would have to tear everything apart to determine the fault, which still makes no sense as the foglight wiring is obviously OK,  since they can be remotely activated.

A dealership will say a lot of things...

Have you checked yourself if the car says that it has foglights when connected to VIDA? Just because something can be remotely activated does not mean that everything is well.

 

7 hours ago, NEU said:

I tried to find the software to have fogs on while my high beams were on but can't find it. I'm sure some of the Euros could tell me it if I dug deep enough, we probably can't get it here... I also had my DRL disabled after I added 55w HIDs. I need to shut my headlights off when I enter my bases checkpoint. Its odd Volvo lets the fogs stay on when you shut the headlights off to parking lights... I upgraded mine fog light bulbs from the 35w h8 to 55w h11. Had HID in for a bit but keep killing the ballasts and when I switch the high beams on and off I'd notice they'd take a bit to come up in brightness so halogen was a much better solution. And you can get the h11 in amber much easier and cheaper then the h8...

The 'foglights without restrictions' software is not intended for the US market. Should be P/N #30664434. Foglights together with parking lights has been done by Volvo for some time now.

Your HID problems are/were likely due to the design of the electrical system. 'PWM' for headlight voltage supply and other lights, there are threads about this if you look it up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Blockpartie said:

The 'foglights without restrictions' software is not intended for the US market. Should be P/N #30664434. Foglights together with parking lights has been done by Volvo for some time now.

Your HID problems are/were likely due to the design of the electrical system. 'PWM' for headlight voltage supply and other lights, there are threads about this if you look it up.

Thanks for the P/N I'll ask my friend that runs a Volvo service dept. if he can get his hands on it, but like I said I doubt we can in the US.

And I'm very aware of the PWM voltage. I was blowing them on a weekly basis for the headlights and fogs till I got Canbus canceler/ Anti flicker modules for the headlight HID. Haven't blown one since I added them 5months ago.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Figured out the problem (s). The Volvo relay I was trying was dead - it shorted & blew the fuse everytime I turned on the switch. The aftrmarket relay I had incorrectly wired with B:23 as the switched power - that is actually a switched ground for the foglight switch illumination.

Tried another Volvo relay (9162260) with my modified switch and it functioned as to should, and turned off with the ignition.

337AAA78-CB90-41CB-A4E3-95DF927947A0_zps

So, I reinstalled the aftermarket relay, put the original Volvo headlamp switch with fog switch back in, and picked a switched power supply from fuse 58. With the wiring thus, the factory switch turns the fogs on as long as at least the parking lights are on. They stay on with low and high beams. They turn off with the ignition off, so no funky business with backfeed through the factory wiring, which I left intact. The nice thing about this relay is that it remembers the last state, and returns to that, so if the fogs were on when I turn the car off, they will turn on when the car is restarted.

644B12F6-D778-4923-A01C-D074F47A1F44_zps

D404DDF9-8823-4346-A917-35F47CACAFDF_zps

tucked away against the bulkhead

F9BFD965-78A6-4CD8-97ED-A672DE2F96BA_zps

6 hours ago, Blockpartie said:

A dealership will say a lot of things...

Have you checked yourself if the car says that it has foglights when connected to VIDA? Just because something can be remotely activated does not mean that everything is well.

 

I have a printout of all the factory installed options on the car, foglights is one of them. It's not just the dealership, although I have known the shop foreman there since the '80's when we worked together at a Volvo dealership. The VCNA employee who worked on it remotely I also have known since the 80's when I also worked alongside him, so I have faith that he was not making up stories.

13 hours ago, NEU said:

I'm not a big fan of these new electronics too. Had issues with mine.

I upgraded mine fog light bulbs from the 35w h8 to 55w h11. And you can get the h11 in amber much easier and cheaper then the h8...

Interesting about The Belgium light mods. Not sure I dig the twin rear fogs. That always irked me as others might think it's brakes. But that could be a good thing... LOL!

I'm done with HID's left them with the XR - couldn't stand the warmup time, the fact that they don't heat up so the h/l housings ice over in snow/sleet, the current surge when all 4 beams were turned on, the neverending ballast and/or bulb failures... 

Good suggestion on the wattage increase for the fogs.  I upped the low beams with 65W Philips H9's some time ago, just had to shave a stop out of the bulb base.

B48F0C2B-EE4F-4F77-A8B3-D6809407DD68_zps

I'm of two minds on the dual fogs. They were dropped back in the day for good reason - but those cars didn't have high mount brake lights, so I don't think too many drivers today would mistake them for brake lights. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/10/2016 at 9:21 PM, lookforjoe said:

Finished up the main casing for now. 

FullSizeRender%203_zps64hmeeo8.jpg

Back to the filter housing inlet. Filter is the RX-4730XD. Flows approx 675cfm. Motor requires approx 610cfm, based on 6500 rev limit, 18psi. Started working on the 4" piping & junction where the snorkel currently sits

2F53AA96-88E6-40F2-A77A-465D49654F9D_zps

Thinking I'll fashion a snorkel out of aluminum. Or, weld the elbow to the housing inlet (to get rid of the coupler) & leave the snorkel but modify it.. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never had an issue with the vR and HID ballast or bulbs in the 7-8 years I've run them and my headlight wipers worked. I do notice that my current ones on the cR do have a bit of warm up time now with it being cold, but by the time the car is warmed up it's not an issue. I do a lot of early morning and night driving and need the extra light with my "old eyes". :ninja: I just prefer the crisp light output of the HID @ 5k. Whether it was the stock p80 lens, e-code, jewels or the stock c30 projectors. Halogens are just are too dim. And the cR stock 35w fogs was a joke too.

Nice touch with the relay remembering that you had your fogs on. That would be nice if it was that way stock like on the p80. I'd prefer that over having them on with low beam.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally found the manufacturer & style of the terminal & housings used for most instrumentation & C30 switches. Used on x70 and newer - don't know about 850. Took me two days of looking to finally find them. They look like TE Mini MLC style, but that's not it

Listed as Hitachi on one website  - These connectors (IL-AG5 series) are actually made by JAE Electronics  6 cents ea. if you buy 100. 

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On January 19, 2017 at 7:34 AM, NEU said:

And the cR stock 35w fogs was a joke too.Nice touch with the relay remembering that you had your fogs on. That would be nice if it was that way stock like on the p80. I'd prefer that over having them on with low beam.

 

I didn't realize they were only 35w! I cut the metal alignment tabs on my old H11 55W low beams & put those in yesterday in place of the H8's. I have ordered 65W yellow coated H11's to go in next week.

Turns out the fuse I'm using for switched power is live even with the lights off completely - so I have fogs alone, fogs w/running lights, low & high beams.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine are the Hella Optilux Extreme Yellow XY H11 55w I got from Pepboys, they were on sale for $19 with a web coupon. They are more orange (amber) than yellow.:rolleyes: I had a set of cheap h8 35w yellow bulbs off Amazon that had a better color but the output wasn't nearly as bright as the h11. But one blew within 2 months... :sad: I have a set of yellow 100w h11 that I was going to put in the high beams, but I'm afraid they'll melt something...

Have you had anyone high beam you for having 65w? I haven't had anyone complain about my upgraded fogs yet... And I drive with them on all the time.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, NEU said:

Mine are the Hella Optilux Extreme Yellow XY H11 55w I got from Pepboys, they were on sale for $19 with a web coupon. They are more orange (amber) than yellow.:rolleyes: I had a set of cheap h8 35w yellow bulbs off Amazon that had a better color but the output wasn't nearly as bright as the h11. But one blew within 2 months... :sad: I have a set of yellow 100w h11 that I was going to put in the high beams, but I'm afraid they'll melt something...

Have you had anyone high beam you for having 65w? I haven't had anyone complain about my upgraded fogs yet... And I drive with them on all the time.

 

The bulbs came today - I ordered H9's by mistake, so I'll be grinding the steel locating tab as well as the bulb socket tab ;(

I have had a couple people flash me for the 65's, but I did actually lower them slightly so I'm assuming it's because they're brighter as opposed to actual glare.

I run 80/100W H4's in the X1/9 :)

I think the high beams take H9's - according to my manual the lows are H7. I don't recall what I removed originally.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my folks old '71 w108 Mercedes, that I restored dad in High School. I ran 80/100w H4 and 100w H1 e-Code quad headlights with 100w h3 fogs. I was able to run both high and low beam in the H4s too, a total of 760 watts! That was the best lighting I EVER had with Halogen...

I think your right high beams are H9 some places say it's 9005. The lows are H11. I have some HID bulbs and they have h11/8/9 on them so they are all kinda interchangeable. Like you show in your pic the center pin is the biggest difference and the base is slightly different but they will work. I have a stash of leftover bulbs halogen and HID from the vR as I upgrade to the Jewels so I've just grab what ever I need from them in a pinch.

Have you upgrade any of the exterior or interior bulbs to LED? I did my running lights in the headlights (inner most light by the grill and amber ones in the outer corners). I also did the licenses which are a oh yeah! to do! That connector falls apart! I saw someone makes a complete lens LED replacement but I managed to get the connector to work. Interior lights I've done the dome front and rear but the ones I used for the fronts are a bit too bright and blinding at night, but so crisp and white, I might find some dimmer LEDs. I kept the map light as is so I can use that if I need a dim light while driving I thought about replacing those with red. I need to replace bulb for the HVAC temp control as ones burned out and would like to replace all the dash lights to red LED like I did on the vR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Started on the 110k service work - t/belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, serpentine belts, etc.

Doing all the hoses with do88 kit while I have it all apart.

Found a nest behind the battery tray

69B25AC6-4F59-41AA-BFAA-F2E646F4CD94_zps

and.... dropped the trans

4CFF59AC-7BCB-493A-85CD-5E372A8BB7F0_zps

3465FA02-C8F6-4995-92A0-74F38B714E93_zps

2E2C528F-AB25-413F-856F-AAE232903D30_zps

 

Pressing on the new bearings

ED8CCDB0-EAAA-4813-B0F8-945B5AE4E44F_zps

34BB25CF-B41D-4C11-BC4D-07BDC58E5659_zps

 

6843481 L&R axles seals, 32008-XQ bearings x2, Subaru gasket sealant 004403007

36DF1054-0540-409B-A552-A7655BE4C3D0_zps

WaveTrac in, all back together. New slave and vent tube, with shock load limiter removed.

C368AB7C-2336-428A-83BA-6C903D3F750D_zps

Spec Stage III +

A0F6AE36-6D99-4C3F-B5B4-AE669CB0A7AB_zps

rear main

3056C107-95FD-4690-9A6D-217C9B239491_zps

F450D058-E10E-44FA-9C64-2396FB69DB1B_zps

Spec Flywheel in

9BF44027-11E7-40B7-9B37-1621B8BAD229_zps

CV boots

5FDCB79C-F513-4ECC-BBFC-6CCFC13AF0BE_zps

K16, injectors going in tomorrow, then putting it all back together.

 

  • Upvote 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...