FrankenMoose Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 So, since my other build thread was archived... I'll start another. Here's a link to the old one, cause I'm just going to keep going: 00 V70R-B5244T3 w M66C Anyway, a few days ago, the VR would not start. All the normal things were happening when I turned the key: dash lights come on, fuel pump primes, etc. But, when you go to crank the starter... only the sound of the solenoid clicking. I decided it was the starter after checking that the start signal was actually getting to the starter. Ordered and new one; it arrives tomorrow. In prep for the new starter, I decided to do the tear down today. I pulled the intake pipes, airbox, aux fan, IC charge pipe, all to access the starter. Once I removed the starter, I noticed a shitload of oil all over the block. After inspecting further, I realized the PVC was the problem. Damn thing dumping oil all over my fresh block. So, i took the intake Manifold off as well, to get access tot eh PVC and clean the block. Now that I have basically torn down the intake side of the block, I'm starting to think of other things I can do while I'm in there; like, why put the 465cc injectors back in when I can try the 650cc again. But, I need to upgrade the fuel pump, as the stock cannot provide the PSI for the 650cc's. So, now a AEM In-tank pump is on order. Also, the Oil Pressure sensor has been reporting low pressure at idle; So, I'm going to reseal the 4-way block. And lastly, the battery terminal is corroding again... So, now new terminals are on order and fresh 4ga starter line, and the 8ga lines to the fuse box... Now to inspect the PVC and figure out if it's a defective part (it was installed new with the rebuilt engine), or if it was miss-installed (probably this). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted November 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2016 Some work today: Got the block all cleaned up; new starter installed; PVC back in; oil pressure sensors, both factory and aftermarket, back in; Knock sensors reattached. Still to go: Intake manifold; 650cc injectors; High flow fuel pump; Fuel rail; Throttle body; Corroded battery terminal and cables replaced. Had to stop today due to lack of crush washers. I hate that damn banjo bolt on the bottom of the intake manifold. I left a crush washer off of it one before and it leaked oil all over the throttle body, and everything around it. Not that big of a deal though, the battery replacement terminals are back ordered, so final reassembly it delayed anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted December 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 Update: Intake Manifold back in, crush washers on the banjo bolt and all; Fuel rail, Throttle body, etc. I did not install the 650cc injectors simply because I didn't install the fuel pump yet. Since it's a 2000, there is no access to the pump from the top side. I'm trying to figure out if I do the hard thing of dropping the tank/sub-frame and access it that way... Or the lazy thing of cutting in an access hole where the previous models had one, and replacing it from there (hint: it's probably going to be the lazy option). Anyone done this? advice would be welcome. Drove it around today and had a blast. After not driving it for 5 or so weeks, I forget just how fun this thing is to drive... now if only I can get all the crap ass Prius drivers out of the damn fastlane... When I slowed down at a light, there was a bit of coolant "smoke" coming out from under the hood. So, I pulled over and took a look and noticed a large coolant splash just to the passenger side of the intake manifold. Looking around, it looks like the coolant line that runs to the banjo bolt is letting some coolant by under high pressure (man, I hate that thing). I'll reassess and figure out what's going on and fix it the weekend, and plan out fuel pump situation. After this latest leak is fixed, I'll have to deep clean the engine bay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted December 9, 2016 Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 Pump access is from the pass rear footwell if you are cutting - not in the FWD rear floor shelf area. This was for DS sender - but same idea for main PS sender Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted December 10, 2016 Report Share Posted December 10, 2016 On 12/9/2016 at 1:36 AM, FrankenMoose said: Update: Intake Manifold back in, crush washers on the banjo bolt and all; Fuel rail, Throttle body, etc. I did not install the 650cc injectors simply because I didn't install the fuel pump yet. Since it's a 2000, there is no access to the pump from the top side. I'm trying to figure out if I do the hard thing of dropping the tank/sub-frame and access it that way... Or the lazy thing of cutting in an access hole where the previous models had one, and replacing it from there (hint: it's probably going to be the lazy option). Anyone done this? advice would be welcome. Drove it around today and had a blast. After not driving it for 5 or so weeks, I forget just how fun this thing is to drive... now if only I can get all the crap ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD Prius drivers out of the damn fastlane... When I slowed down at a light, there was a bit of coolant "smoke" coming out from under the hood. So, I pulled over and took a look and noticed a large coolant splash just to the passenger side of the intake manifold. Looking around, it looks like the coolant line that runs to the banjo bolt is letting some coolant by under high pressure (man, I hate that thing). I'll reassess and figure out what's going on and fix it the weekend, and plan out fuel pump situation. After this latest leak is fixed, I'll have to deep clean the engine bay. Maybe @andyb5 can point you right to hit but he eliminated that banjo bolt assembly. If you don't drive the car in freezing temps I gather its not 100% needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 On 12/9/2016 at 6:15 AM, lookforjoe said: Pump access is from the pass rear footwell if you are cutting - not in the FWD rear floor shelf area. This was for DS sender - but same idea for main PS sender Nice, I was going to check underneath before I cut, so this it great info to know what direction to look. Thanks Hussein. 7 hours ago, apeacock said: Maybe @andyb5 can point you right to hit but he eliminated that banjo bolt assembly. If you don't drive the car in freezing temps I gather its not 100% needed. It does get pretty cold here in the Seattle area, but not like freezing for days cold. I'll take a look in there tomorrow and locate where exactly it's coming from; cause burning off any amount of Evans Waterless is annoying, and can get expensive (and smells really funky too). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 14 hours ago, FrankenMoose said: Nice, I was going to check underneath before I cut, so this it great info to know what direction to look. Thanks Hussein. It does get pretty cold here in the Seattle area, but not like freezing for days cold. I'll take a look in there tomorrow and locate where exactly it's coming from; cause burning off any amount of Evans Waterless is annoying, and can get expensive (and smells really funky too). Indeed! I pumped a couple gallon$$ (Evans) out the exhaust of my X1/9 when the HG blew.... ....took several hours running to clear all the residual out the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 21 hours ago, apeacock said: Maybe @andyb5 can point you right to hit but he eliminated that banjo bolt assembly. If you don't drive the car in freezing temps I gather its not 100% needed. I used a oil pan drain plug from an E39 5 series, I forget what the thread pitch is. Add a crush washer to seal it against the manifold and problem solved. I rerouted the vacuum supply to the line above the ETM and upon learning about Volvo adding a check valve to the banjo bolt on newer models I added an inline check valve to prevent boost pressure from entering the PCV system. I used a length of hose to replace the banjo/coolant line. My wagon is daily driven and I live in upstate NY, so it sees plenty of cold weather action without skipping a beat. The coolant line is only "required" at the banjo to prevent air/oil/water vapor from condensing in the banjo bolt and blocking the vacuum feed from the manifold to the PCV system. Coolant serves as a warming element for the rest of the PCV system to prevent condensation or freezing in cold weather. That is important so I kept the coolant flow path intact. On a "warm weather only" or track car, I'd delete that entire coolant loop and simplify the entire PCV system in the process. Cliff notes - Volvo engineers created the problem for themselves and came up with a complicated manner of fixing it instead of finding a simpler solution. Oh, and my thoughts on fuel pump replacement would be to drop the subframe. I really should finish the DIY guide I've been working on for that job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 3 hours ago, andyb5 said: I used a oil pan drain plug from an E39 5 series, I forget what the thread pitch is. Add a crush washer to seal it against the manifold and problem solved. I rerouted the vacuum supply to the line above the ETM and upon learning about Volvo adding a check valve to the banjo bolt on newer models I added an inline check valve to prevent boost pressure from entering the PCV system. The coolant line is only "required" at the banjo to prevent air/oil/water vapor from condensing in the banjo bolt and blocking the vacuum feed from the manifold to the PCV system. Coolant serves as a warming element for the rest of the PCV system to prevent condensation or freezing in cold weather. That is important so I kept the coolant flow path intact. On a "warm weather only" or track car, I'd delete that entire coolant loop and simplify the entire PCV system in the process. Cliff notes - Volvo engineers created the problem for themselves and came up with a complicated manner of fixing it instead of finding a simpler solution. Oh, and my thoughts on fuel pump replacement would be to drop the subframe. I really should finish the DIY guide I've been working on for that job. Good stuff. I'll more that likely go this route if it turns out that the leak is coming from the banjo bolt area as I suspect. And, I'd like to see that DIY; I'm not in a hurry to replace the fuel pump, I just want to get it done to improve power. The lack of pressure at the fuel rail and the use of 465cc injectors instead of the 650cc the tune is set for, is causing the engine to loose power above 3.5-4k RPM. Simply put, you can hear and feel it choking from lack of fuel. Like, it's running strong and wants to pull hard, then you hit 4k, and it just chokes until you shift and drop in RPMs, then it's all "let's do this!" again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted December 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 Blast pattern... And the culprit. Repositioned the hose on the barb and replaced the hose clamp leading to the banjo bolt. Drove it around to test with dry results. Not really the clamps fault, as you can see, it was not installed properly. I replaced it with a screw type as I do not have the proper tool to crimp the clamp, plus I couldn't get it in there if I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted January 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 I replaced the Directed Electronics Alarm with the Viper Version today. The new version allows for Bluetooth interaction via an app. All the wiring was the same, just had to add the updated brain and install the BT module. The car has been driving better, and no more coolant leaks from poorly installed hose clamps. Also, while replacing the starter, I cleaned up and tightened the oil pressure tree, the factory pressure sensor and the aftermarket one. I had not realized how much this was an oil leak point until I tore down this side of the engine. Mostly the leak was due to me using the wrong sealant tape. At the time, I just used what I had; but it turned out to harden up with oil exposure, which made for a poor sealant. Instead, I bought some sealing paste that should do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted January 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 Car still has some minor oil leaks I need to track down. I received a violation notice from the company that manages my buildings parking garage. They sited that it is leaking and that I need to take care of it. And, I'm like: No Shit! Why do you think I always try to park in the same spot! So I don't leave little pools of oil all over the damn place! They also sited me for working on my car in the garage, which is apparently against they rules... just can't win... need a private garage, or to move into a house with one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted February 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Well, gave her a wash and took her to the XXX Swedish Drive-In last weekend to visit with some friends. As usual, I didn't take a lot of pics, but I did take some: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 The dip is a great refresh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Had to do a double take at your car, not realizing it was dipped at first. Looks great!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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