Simply Volvo Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 On 10/24/2020 at 11:19 PM, lookforjoe said: Nice work on the axle boot/adaptor flange! I think "chamfer' was the word you were searching for Those adapter flanges would be great for P1 AWD rear axles, as the boots are also not available due to the crimp on metal flange design. As some point I will be swapping on my rear diff for the one I built with the Quaife LSD - If I dismantle the axle & get measurements for you, would you be able to 3D print a boot flange for that application? I put a section of heat shrink over the nick in the boot - it's held up for a year, but I don't expect it to last indefinitely . Hey H, Yeah I could modify the diameter of my adapter to work for your axle. Just need the OD of the CV where the metal flange crimps onto and location of any recesses where the grub screws could bite into (such as channel where the metal crimps onto). My plastic version seems to be holding up fairly well so far. More FWD testing. OEM propshaft is on order (9463300). This a 2000 V70R propshaft with the largest carrier of em all. Should be arriving today! Also need to do a one over on all the bolts and get my new tires mounted. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 amazing congrats matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 59 minutes ago, Simply Volvo said: Hey H, Yeah I could modify the diameter of my adapter to work for your axle. Just need the OD of the CV where the metal flange crimps onto and location of any recesses where the grub screws could bite into (such as channel where the metal crimps onto). My plastic version seems to be holding up fairly well so far. More FWD testing. OEM propshaft is on order (9463300). This a 2000 V70R propshaft with the largest carrier of em all. Should be arriving today! Also need to do a one over on all the bolts and get my new tires mounted. Thanks, Matt. I'll get back to you when I get the axle out with accurate pics/dimensions. Did you locate the proper center carrier plate for the '00 center shaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 (edited) 10 minutes ago, lookforjoe said: Thanks, Matt. I'll get back to you when I get the axle out with accurate pics/dimensions. Did you locate the proper center carrier plate for the '00 center shaft? Its NLA new and trying to find a used one that isnt a rusty rotted mess would be difficult. I bought a new from Volvo 98 plate (9474483). According to your 98-00 AWD components thread... EDIT 3/08/14: Carrier variations - note that the later 99-00 DS with larger (better) carrier bearing CAN BE USED in late '98's - you have to re-drill the carrier mount holes in the support plate to 2.25 on center, inboard of the existing 3" on center holes. I believe I can just modify the 98 plate and redrill it? ~Matt Edited October 28, 2020 by Simply Volvo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 I have a minty plate from a CA '00 R - I saved it, never got around to installing it on mine - drilling the '98 works just fine though I would expect you'll see higher diff temps once you are loading it in AWD... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 (edited) 10 minutes ago, lookforjoe said: I have a minty plate from a CA '00 R - I saved it, never got around to installing it on mine - drilling the '98 works just fine though I would expect you'll see higher diff temps once you are loading it in AWD... Ill send you a PM on the 00R plate. Id be interested in that if you are willing to part ways with it. I think temps will climb closer to 200F when loaded and just driving around. Probably closer to 225F on extended heavy loading. The fluid is rated for an absolute max of 302F (its flash point). My main interest in monitoring the unloaded temperature is to get an idea of how much heat soak is effecting the case temperature since its around a lot of things that produce / radiate heat. Max I've seen sitting in traffic for an extended period is about 150F so that's pretty decent. Being so close to all of the exhaust isn't effecting it too much unless I sit in traffic. Usually driving I see it cool down to 120-130F unloaded, so very minimal heat soak. The case also doesn't hold in heat too long. Usually within 15 minutes of being turned off it cools down dramatically. 47 minutes ago, gmsgltr said: amazing congrats matt Thanks Greg! Maybe one of these days we can get the locals together for a little meet or something. Edited October 28, 2020 by Simply Volvo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing3 Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 only thing that would make me love it more is if it was a wagon. Props man. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted November 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2020 Car is running AWD... The viscous coupler is holding me back. Either its worn out or I didn't understand from the get go how it was going to function during a launch / roll. It take some time to wind up and I really don't like that. I want torque to all wheels instantly (even if that means spinning all 4). Going to be locking the drivetrain 50/50 for now until I can design an adapter to use a Gen3 haldex clutch. I am well aware of the pros and cons of 50/50 but its not a concern for this car. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_Dub Posted November 2, 2020 Report Share Posted November 2, 2020 It sure doesn’t seem like that awd is functioning properly... I don’t launch my car like that, and I don’t make near the power you do, but when I stand on it in second gear all four tires light up and then it grabs. There is virtually no lag from when the fronts start to slip before the viscous engages and all four spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing3 Posted November 3, 2020 Report Share Posted November 3, 2020 Maybe you’ve discussed it, but how do you plan to get around inspection with that drop pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted November 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, flyfishing3 said: Maybe you’ve discussed it, but how do you plan to get around inspection with that drop pipe? T-5R's just turned 25 this year, so I got it registered as an antique in my state Pennsylvania. No inspection or emissions and its a permanent registration. No one has hassled me yet. I drove by a couple police, they saw the antique plate, my slipstream racing numbers on the windows and minded their own business. I drive it on the weekends and sometimes at night its not out enough for anyone to question it (as your technically only allowed out once a week)... other than its fully street legal, insured and everything! You need classic insurance which is expensive. I'm paying $800 a year right now for just the T-5R. Gotta pay to play the loopholes. Registration wasn't cheap either especially not the vanity plate (which I haven't showed yet) but its permanent and if it allows me to still play on the street legally im OK. Edited November 4, 2020 by Simply Volvo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted November 4, 2020 Report Share Posted November 4, 2020 been considering the same for mine just a much more toned down set up than yours lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing3 Posted November 4, 2020 Report Share Posted November 4, 2020 12 hours ago, Simply Volvo said: T-5R's just turned 25 this year, so I got it registered as an antique in my state Pennsylvania. No inspection or emissions and its a permanent registration. No one has hassled me yet. I drove by a couple police, they saw the antique plate, my slipstream racing numbers on the windows and minded their own business. I drive it on the weekends and sometimes at night its not out enough for anyone to question it (as your technically only allowed out once a week)... other than its fully street legal, insured and everything! You need classic insurance which is expensive. I'm paying $800 a year right now for just the T-5R. Gotta pay to play the loopholes. Registration wasn't cheap either especially not the vanity plate (which I haven't showed yet) but its permanent and if it allows me to still play on the street legally im OK. Cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted November 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, gmsgltr said: been considering the same for mine just a much more toned down set up than yours lol Yeah you should be able to register yours this upcoming year. I would do it... its perm registration so only pay once and don't have to pay yearly for cars that don't drive much. You'll be able to get cheaper classic insurance I only had my license for 9 years and most want 10 years before they give you cheap classic (GEICO, etc). Im using Hagerty right now cause they're the only ones that would take me (26 with 800hp car others question it cause of age). Progress on AWD: Facing a strange issue with the AWD recently... I got the viscous coupler back from welding today. Both the freewheel and viscous are welded essentially locking the front and rear wheel speed and making the car 4WD. Got everything installed and went for a test drive. Drive train windup isn't too bad except for when I'm pulling into my garage bay I can notice it or turning below 5mph (usually more than 1 steering wheel rotation). Doesn't seem to have too much extra drive train noise. While driving the car it wants to go straight. It feels like its on rails and everything is working together. I like it. Locked 4WD on the street feels so raw, its fun to drive. I can feel slightly more resistance on decel but the car still rolls very easily going straight. Going around turns at speeds above 5mph I can't notice a difference really. Angle gear fluid temps stayed the same. I ended the night with 140F... so locking it doesn't see to be generating any extra friction. I started off by doing 1st gear rolls from like 3500ish. I didn't really notice a difference. It still seems like the car wasn't accelerating as aggressively as I thought it would. It seemed to induce some wheel hop in the rear and possibly a loss of traction. I think I might be spinning all 4 but I really can't tell and the exhaust is so loud it hard to hear any wheel noise. I need to hookup a rear wheel speed sensor the megasquirt or film the outside. I'm starting to draw the conclusion that this is all suspension related... after I installed the new CV boots and adapter, I set the dampening to max and I only had about 10mm of room between my bump stop and control arm at ride height. I'm thinking the extreme dampening and the fact the suspension is bottoming out on the bump stops is causing a massive loss of traction to the rear essentially making it seem FWD in terms of traction. It also seems to hop and bounce which I bet is related to either the very hard dampening or bottoming out on the bump stops. If this is suspension related this could mean maybe it wasn't an issue with the viscous coupler? As a lot of the symptoms I'm having didn't match others for a borked VC. I need to think up a logical set of trouble shooting steps. Maybe I should try raising the rear suspension up quite a bit that way I can soften up the dampening a good amount and not have to worry about any CV control arm contact. This might substantially improve traction but then the car is going to have a decent rake to it where the rear is higher than the front... probably not the best for traction either. Or I could just trim my bump stops which I never did. I can remove quite a bit from the bump stops and still maintain good CV boot clearance. I just got so wrapped up in everything I shelved that task. Then I can soften up the dampening too and then dial it back in to make it hard enough so that it squats but just barely doesn't bottom out on launch / roll. Edited November 4, 2020 by Simply Volvo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 4, 2020 Report Share Posted November 4, 2020 What spring rate are you running with the QA1s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.