Simply Volvo Posted March 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2021 (edited) Hey guys. Bit more updates on the VC. Its pretty fun on the street when its warmed up if you are just screwing around in 2nd and 3rd gear. Its really just from 1st roll or 1st launch its doesn't work very well. I think the RPMs just rip to redline way too fast and it hits limiter for it to function. I cannot get it to lockup consistently from a dig. If I do get it to lock up it clunks hard after a second of front wheel spin and is probably sending quite the shock through the drivetrain. I quite convinced thats why the angle gears pop is because of the huge shock load it puts on it when it does actually lock. Ive also noticed that on a 3rd gear rip I get a bit of torque steer and then torque goes to the rear and I get a bit of fish tail and that process oscillates. It feels like the quaife when it was FWD, car kinda snakes all over the road. Really don't like it and it doesnt feel safe. The locked 4WD just pulls you dead nuts straight. With the locked 4WD i can properly preload the entire drivetrain and its very easy to do with how my clutch stop is setup. Then I just slowly slip the clutch and she takes right off. Ill leave it in there until after my big front suspension upgrade & after its aligned. 7 hours ago, Commander Riker said: This car is becoming a real monster. Could you share any more on the VC welding? Would you do it on a lower HP car? Or is it only worth it on high HP applications such as this? These are the two spots that need to be welded. I can't comment on a lower HP car as I've never been in a stock P80 AWD. All I can say is that scrubbing really isn't that bad (but can be a bit annoying sometimes... everything has trade offs in life). I have been running it locked for about 250 miles now. No extra heat (I have oil temp sensor in my billet AG). No metal in the oil and the gear teeth looked very clean. You just need to be careful about blasting it around corners as it will definitely understeer horribly. I don't push it hard around corners but it can take a onramp at regular / low throttle 55-60mph no problem. Edited March 16, 2021 by Simply Volvo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Thanks for posting those pictures. I'm getting an extra 00 complete rear end in a pile of parts I just picked up from a good friend. Thinking about doing this mod just to try it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted April 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 Made some big moves on the front end... can't even begin to explain the difference it made. At this point pretty much every part has been replaced with a Genuine OEM Volvo part. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted April 4, 2021 Report Share Posted April 4, 2021 (edited) All for the better parts, I enjoy the moog sway bar links as they have a wrench hold and I never trust the torx on a salt drive car. Any experience with noise or harshness from the strut bearings? Consider a set as I need to sent away my Ohlins for a leak. Edited April 4, 2021 by apeacock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted April 4, 2021 Report Share Posted April 4, 2021 23 hours ago, Simply Volvo said: Made some big moves on the front end... can't even begin to explain the difference it made. At this point pretty much every part has been replaced with a Genuine OEM Volvo part. Do you prefer the OEM rubber control arm bushings over well-lubricated poly inserts? Which one gave the better handling, in your opinion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted April 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2021 Car is driving incredibly well. I will say the overall suspension quality has gone from a 4.5 to a 9.5. The difference is drastic and this JRZ front setup can eat up pot holes & man hole covers like its no ones business. Car is going in for a 4 wheel alignment tomorrow so I quite excited to see how everything feels once the front and rear are properly aligned. On 4/3/2021 at 8:06 PM, apeacock said: All for the better parts, I enjoy the moog sway bar links as they have a wrench hold and I never trust the torx on a salt drive car. Any experience with noise or harshness from the strut bearings? Consider a set as I need to sent away my Ohlins for a leak. From the factory strut bearings? No. Only run OEM strut bearings on my beater S70 and before replacing them (original 120K) they had a ton of noise and play but have since replaced them. With BNEs upper perches and LUXE steer no noise or harness so far. 19 hours ago, Boxman said: Do you prefer the OEM rubber control arm bushings over well-lubricated poly inserts? Which one gave the better handling, in your opinion? I have only ever used OEM rubber so I cannot answer. The OEM rubber is very good and will last a lifetime if properly installed. Had a ran who ran a poly front suspension setup and ended up going back to OEM. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted April 5, 2021 Report Share Posted April 5, 2021 28 minutes ago, Simply Volvo said: From the factory strut bearings? No. Only run OEM strut bearings on my beater S70 and before replacing them (original 120K) they had a ton of noise and play but have since replaced them. With BNEs upper perches and LUXE steer no noise or harness so far. Hmm I was more asking, do they make an increase in noise (metal on metal fitment) or are they contributing to any other NVH. But maybe this answers that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted April 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 (edited) 9 hours ago, apeacock said: Hmm I was more asking, do they make an increase in noise (metal on metal fitment) or are they contributing to any other NVH. But maybe this answers that. Drove it some more today. There is a little plastic isolator between the bottom of the spring and the height adjuster. None between the top of the spring and the LUXE steer bearing. Heard a tiny bit of metal on metal "squeaking." Might try spraying a little WD40 up there. The Luxe steer bearing does have a plastic isolator between the bearing and strut mount. Got the final ride height adjustment done before my 4 wheel alignment tomorrow. 25.5" from ground to fender in front and 26" from ground to fender in rear. So happy I raised the car up. Now the control arms and axles are flat with the car on the ground. Suspension geometry must have been so messed up before. Car is driving and handling great now. I absolutely love the 1/2"-3/4" of rake. Its very suttle but it also has a purpose to help the car level out on launch instead of squatting too much. I want those front wheels working just as hard as the back. 400lb/in in the front and 700lb/in in the rear (due to the 0.675 motion ratio). It feels perfectly sprung. Now I need to play with the dampening. Could use some more in the front. Front is fully soft on compression/rebound. Rear is about 10/18 clicks combined compression/rebound. Should have plenty of room for some 26" slicks if I ever get to that point. Edited April 6, 2021 by Simply Volvo 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 You have built, in my opinion, the most rad version of a T5R ever. Best part is, it looks so unassuming. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted April 15, 2021 Report Share Posted April 15, 2021 Matt what is your rear suspension set up? Do you have the BNE rear perches/springs? And what shocks? What do you think of the fronts? Get any more miles on them since you last posted?!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted April 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2021 (edited) 11 hours ago, gmsgltr said: Matt what is your rear suspension set up? Do you have the BNE rear perches/springs? And what shocks? What do you think of the fronts? Get any more miles on them since you last posted?!?! I have Ben's rear perches with some 8" 700lb/in springs (due to 0.675 motion rear) and QA1 shocks. The front shocks are f***ing amazing. Literally worth every penny. I cannot explain how much it changed the car (as well as replacing entire front with OEM stuff). Im not kidding you instead of lambo hunting I have been pot hole / man cover hunting and have yet to find anything that can phase the front. It handles any pot hole / bump in the road like a champ with it on full soft. Haven't played with stiffen up the settings yet. See no need yet on the street. No more spine shattering front suspension. I found some pretty big speed bumps and hit them going 30mph+ and it ate them up no problem. Raising the car back up to factory ride height was the best decision I have ever made. Handles way better and they could actually get it perfectly aligned. When its lowered you cant get it aligned properly because the control arms, tie rods and axles angle up instead sitting flat. No more scraping BS I can fling this thing at any speed into any drive way, parking spot, gas station, etc. Edited April 16, 2021 by Simply Volvo 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted April 16, 2021 Report Share Posted April 16, 2021 still lambo hunt... i want to hear how that ends for the lambo owner haha awesome to hear about the bne/jrz set up! i love how mine looks at this ride height but do understand how screwed up the geometry is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted July 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 (edited) Had a set back after a 6500 rpm launch that dead hooked @ 20 psi or so. It was one of those launches where I was like "I should probably check the drivetrain." Ended up twisting by rear billet 4340 axle stub adapters. Slipped it pretty well, so I think this failure is an excessive torque failure and not an excessive shock failure. The reason why I had to design these in the first place is so that I could use the 27 tooth spline Eaton Detroit TruTrac LSD in the rear and also use the stronger 960 MKI rear axle. I originally wanted to through harden the V1s but the manufacture was unable to cut the spline after through hardening and cutting the spline before causes deformation after heat treat. This could be solved with test batches but its not feasible for small batches / one off production. Instead they were manufactured from annealed 4340 and the splines induction hardened. Unfortunately this was not strong enough for my application. It did however provide an awesome proof of concept and allowed me to get something working and the car driving. V2 are 4340 through hardened to 50HRC and the spline was cut after through hardening using spark erosion and a 2D DXF drawing of the spline I provided. This achieves incredible strength and a perfect spline fit. The new V2 stubs are calculated to be 2.8x stronger. I will prove this in real life over the next couple of months. They have the following improvements: 1. Proper spline neck down (allows the shaft to twist almost 2x as much as V1s without yielding) 2. Spline length was reduced to be the exact same length as its counterpart. 3. Added another OD to better center the stub in the diff 4. Spark erosion cut spline allowed for through hardening to 50HRC and perfect spline geometry. I also made some overall improvements on the car in this time: New turbo oil feed New boost control system Changed the oil and got a Blackstone oil analysis. I am very happy with the results from the oil report. This engine has about 2500 miles on it with probably close to 400 pulls on it. I have 259 data log files and some of the pulls I haven't logged. There was nothing out of the ordinary detected and the report came to conclusion that the engine is in great health based upon the contents of the oil. Lastly I got the new stubs installed and was able to start ripping on it again. Did about 34 pulls on the new stubs so far. Will launch test shortly. Car pulls really hard in 2nd gear @ 30 psi with zero traction loss or delay. 0.85G so far. Goal is to reach 1G in 2nd gear so that I can horizontally sky dive on demand. Some 2nd gear pulls in the video below. I just finished another round of huge improvements / upgrades. About 90% done so I need to start editing the footage. Stay tuned. Edited July 25, 2021 by Simply Volvo 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted July 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2021 (edited) I also produced a 2nd billet angle gear. Been a crazy busy spring / summer. This unit went to a friend who lives in The Netherlands for testing. He has a highly built 850 AWD that he auto crosses in the dirt with. He has had continual issues with the factory cast angle gear case exploding upon launch when running the car locked 4WD. He setup the case himself with some help from me and he did a fantastic job! He was able to recently race the car. The case and drivetrain are holding up great so far! Looking forward to more racing. He is also making use of the forced pinon lubrication system which consists of an external oil pump. For his type of racing this likely isn't necessary (its meant more for cars that highway drive) but we figured it wouldn't hurt to run it. Specs: 1. For use with 96-00 P80 with 96-99 gear set. 2. 7075-T6 aluminum 3. ARP 8740 case bolts 4. Grade 12.9 flange to transmission studs 5. Crush sleeve eliminator 6. All factory seals + Timken bearings 7. Factory gear set 8. Factory collar sleeve Improvements: 1. Reduced seal bore diameter for tighter fit with metal seals 2. Improved M6 bolt recesses Edited July 26, 2021 by Simply Volvo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted July 26, 2021 Report Share Posted July 26, 2021 lol the moment I skipped to he jumps into the other car. NICE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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