andyb5 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 Crap, sorry guys. Thought I replied to everyone a while ago, but it appears I didn't. Oops..... On 6/21/2017 at 4:16 AM, DDM said: Beautiful Venetian Andy! I look forward to seeing this project unfold... Dan Thanks Dan, appreciate the kind words! On 6/21/2017 at 10:11 AM, Chilled man said: Drive right past my house and dont say hi .... what ever... side note I will be in Albany on Tuesday next week . Justin, don't you live near Carlise? I wasn't in that part of PA on my way back from Denver, but I was at Carlisle later that week. I realize I'm a day late and a dollar short here, but if you're ever back up here let me know and we can get together! On 6/21/2017 at 11:22 PM, Dan McBoost said: Mine too, heh. Dan, where in NY do you live? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmsgltr Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 PROGRESS we want progress and pictarz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted July 5, 2017 Report Share Posted July 5, 2017 I was just in Albany / Rochester last week LOL so you were down here and I was up there! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 Time for updates So I basically didn't work on it at all this summer. I pretty much just drove it from point A to B, and enjoyed the cushy stock suspension and nice, cold AC. Even the 5 speed auto isn't horrible for a daily driver, but certainly not the best option for sporty driving. Snagged a good shot parked outside a credit union I designed last summer: 89CC8034-6476-415F-BE8D-026D47C17F85_zpszuufdwtg by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Then as Swedish Car Day approached, I started to get a few things done. I started by mildly rolling the rear fenders: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr The factory rear fender lips are double layer metal and are a pain to roll. Before:Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr and after:Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr I was pleasantly surprised by how clean the suspension/drivetrain appear to be. Everything is in much better condition than the rear end of my 99 RUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr I pulled the front fenders about 1/2" and rolled them as well. Fronts are much easier to roll/pull than the rear. Before:Untitled by Andy Buresh, on FlickrUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr After:Untitled by Andy Buresh, on FlickrUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr In the process of rolling the fenders, I removed all the factory plastic mudflaps and trimmed/modified all the fender liners to fit with the newly rolled fender lips. Don't really have pictures of that at the moment, but it's kind of a trial-and-error process to trim the fender liners and get them lined back up on the rolled fender lips. Bit of a full house before SCD at our shop - 7 different Volvos across a range of models. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Installed my front CX Racing coilovers. They still look pretty good after ~35,000 miles on the car. Seriously, for a sub-$700 pair of coilovers they're greatly exceeding my expectations and the coating of Boeshield T9 is continuing to do a great job keeping corrosion away. The handling improvement is pretty noticeable - the reduction in dive and body roll is nice. The ride quality (5kg/mm springs) are pretty soft, so there's still plenty of compliance and travel to soak up bumps. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr I also installed my adapters, and put the STi BBS wheels and Ventus V12s on before the trip. As a quick refresher, the STi BBS are 17x8, forged and weight 18 lbs. The wheels' native offset is +53, and 19mm adapters get the offset to +34. Lastly, I gave it a quick wash and we all drove out to Larz Anderson. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr At this point, I was fairly happy with where the car was, and was able to work on getting my 99 R taken apart and sent to the junkyard. However, a mere 6 days after I got rid of my 99 R disaster struck. I was on my way home to my apartment when another driver pulled out from a stop sign and hit the side of my wagon. Thankfully, I was unharmed, but my wagon was definitely not ok. It needs a new rear quarter panel, driver's side rear door, and there was some damage to the rear drivers side wheel as well. The good news is that the door still opened and closed normally, the glass wasn't damaged, and the suspension was untouched, so it still ran/drive normally. IMG_2969 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr IMG_2976 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr This is the intersection where I got hit: The other vehicle was stopped at the sign pictured here, and I was driving from right to left across the photo. IMG_2972 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Both streets are 1 way, and the other driver was deemed at fault by the police, and their insurance accepted 100% liability. The repair estimate came out to ~$5,400. That meant the car was a total loss, but I am working on getting it fixed anyways. I ended up getting a quarter panel, door, and side skirt from Eric's ( @Leco510) 98 R. Made some sparksUntitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr and after a while, had myself a quarter panel Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr It's a pain in the ass, but a rear quarter panel does actually fit in the back of one of these wagons. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr That's currently where things stand. I've been avoiding working on modding/repairing things while dealing with insurance and figuring out the whole repair process. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdog Posted November 7, 2017 Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 (edited) Dang man!? Sorry to hear about your mishap. Hope your luck gets better from here on out! Glad to see you're not going to let it slow you down though.. Edited November 7, 2017 by gdog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andzey Posted November 7, 2017 Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 (edited) Thumbs up for your determination! BTW, in Europe when the repair costs exceeds the car's market value, you receive only this market value minus the cost of remaining car. An average P80 here is estimated at around 2500 USD by the insurance companies. In your case the remaining car would be around 500 USD, so the outcome of 2K $ or even less would be a fortune. And what do you guys are using as inner mudguards after that fender rollup? The OEM plastic mudflap holds on that metal lip. After one rolls this lip upside, the mudguard drops out.. Edited November 8, 2017 by Andzey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuner4life Posted November 7, 2017 Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 Holy crap! That's going to be quite the repair! Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted November 7, 2017 Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 Damn dude. So sorry to hear it was hit. Any more and you're going to need to start adding armor to your car. Are you going to repaint the whole thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted November 8, 2017 Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 Sucks you took a hit on the Venetian but it looks like you have a plan to get it back in shape. Hopefully, that insurance money will help pay for some go fast parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 Thought of taking a little less than the repair check (keeping it not a total loss) and finding another one while you drive this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 On 11/6/2017 at 11:16 PM, gdog said: Dang man!? Sorry to hear about your mishap. Hope your luck gets better from here on out! Glad to see you're not going to let it slow you down though.. Thanks gdog! On 11/7/2017 at 5:42 AM, Andzey said: Thumbs up for your determination! BTW, in Europe when the repair costs exceeds the car's market value, you receive only this market value minus the cost of remaining car. An average P80 here is estimated at around 2500 USD by the insurance companies. In your case the remaining car would be around 500 USD, so the outcome of 2K $ or even less would be a fortune. And what do you guys are using as inner mudguards after that fender rollup? The OEM plastic mudflap holds on that metal lip. After one rolls this lip upside, the mudguard drops out.. Yeah that's the same process here. My car was valued at ~$3,500, and after deducting a scrap value of ~$100, I got a check for around $3,400. I need to review it the work with the shop I'm taking it to, but fingers crossed it'll be enough to get my car fixed. I trimmed the fender liners to fit up onto the folded lip. It's not a perfect solution, as they're hard to remove for maintenance, but for now it's functional. I'll try to share some photos of what I did next time I'm working on the car. On 11/7/2017 at 8:10 AM, tuner4life said: Holy crap! That's going to be quite the repair! Good luck! Thanks! On 11/7/2017 at 9:41 AM, Commander Riker said: Damn dude. So sorry to hear it was hit. Any more and you're going to need to start adding armor to your car. Are you going to repaint the whole thing? I'm going to see about getting some other paint work done while I'm in there, but I don't think I'll be repainting the whole car. On 11/8/2017 at 8:49 AM, Ihatespeedbumps said: Sucks you took a hit on the Venetian but it looks like you have a plan to get it back in shape. Hopefully, that insurance money will help pay for some go fast parts Thanks, hopefully I can get it fixed. Any money left over from the insurance will be spent on paint/body work, it just makes sense to do as much of that as I can while it's already at the paint shop. 10 hours ago, apeacock said: Thought of taking a little less than the repair check (keeping it not a total loss) and finding another one while you drive this? Nope. The total loss doesn't really affect my ownership of the car. While there are some cosmetics that need to be addressed, this car is so clean underneath due to it having never seen road salt before that I really don't want to move onto another one. Put the Satellites and studded Altimax Arctics back on for winter Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Here's where you can really see the front fenders have been pulled - the front wheels sit about 2 inches inside of the fender Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin. Posted November 26, 2017 Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 Andy, looks like you had a lot of patience rolling those front fenders. Both of my front fenders are messed up so I pulled them out as far as I can but I cracked the paint in a few spots Think you can fit some more rubber in there with different offset wheels and spacers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 Thanks Kevin! It actually took me a few hours split over two days to get everything done, including modifying the fender liners to fit and everything. It's a tedious process, but was worth it to ensure everything came out well. I'm pretty confident that with the right wheels I could fit more rubber. At this point, I want to focus on optimizing the front suspension geometry (scrub radius, roll center, etc) to use the grip I have better before I go to more rubber, but a future setup more rubber is definitely something I've been thinking about. Here's something along the lines of what I had in mind: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?232263-(4)17x9-quot-Ferrari-348-by-Speedline-235-40-Nitto-NT05. Still working on getting the bodywork sorted out, I'll post updates on that as things progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted February 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2018 A couple weekends ago, I swapped the B5234T8, M66, and all associated parts from my old 99 R into this wagon. I started the work on Friday 1/19 and finished up on Wednesday, 1/24. Pulled the front subframe assembly from my 99 R into the shop and got my wagon ready for the swap: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Engine bay before. It was a mess, everything is covered in oil and PS fluid from a swollen, leaky reservoir Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr The engine is ready to come out: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Lift the car up and off the front subframe, then roll the subframe assembly out of the way: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr "Old" and "new": Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Clutch master installed: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Ran the hardline from the clutch master to the slave cylinder. I notched the airbox bracket to allow the line to fit without passing through the bracket. The OEM routing through the bracket makes it nearly impossible to remove the bracket without disconnecting the clutch line, which is a pain in the ass. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Disassemble the ECU box and pull apart the connectors to modify the CANBUS wiring Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Depinned, cut, and crimped the TCM wires together. After crimping, I used some heat shrink to seal the joint up and ensure everything stays protected from the elements. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr You should never use a solder joint on a car; a proper crimp joint is a much more reliable and durable connection. A solder joint can potentially crack due to the vibrations created by the engine and drivetrain. Of course, I only learned this after I soldered these wires on my old wagon Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr B5234T8/M66 bolted back up and in the engine bay Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Got some help from my girlfriend replacing the spark plugs and installing the newer coil packs from the B5244T that came out of the car.Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr I lost the better part of two nights of work trying to figure out why my heater core connection was leaking. After many trials and tribulations, it turns out there was a small crack in the connection for the lower hose. I temporarily bypassed the heater core until I could order and install a new firewall coupling. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr How it sat for the first attempt at starting. I was a little nervous because the engine had been sitting since September. I put a couple drops of oil in each of the cylinders, cranked it over by hand a few times, and thankfully it fired right up on the first try! Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Center console is all buttoned up: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr And a couple glamour shots of the finished engine bay: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr I still need to get a tune from Steveo, but I'm so happy to have a M66 in my life again! I'll update this post a little later with a full list of all the work I did during this project but I wanted to get all my photos uploaded and shared with you guys! Here's a list of the setup I installed for this project. Parts in bold are new to this car, other parts were previously installed on my 99 R. B5234T8 from my former 99 R with ~223,000 miles. Factory 18T w/ angle flange Forge CBV Snabb intake pipe w/ Spectre cone filter (I really should buy a higher quality filter...) 99 R downpipe w/ Bosch (OES) O2 sensors Rebuilt cylinder head BTCC style dual oil filler necks w/ IPD Viton filler cap seals OEM valve stem seals Bosch (OES) coil packs and OEM spark plugs "R" manifold + OEM MLS gasket from P1 Gates Racing timing belt Aisin (OES) water pump Xemodex ETM New OEM RMS Powerflex polyurethane upper engine and firewall mounts M66C (from 05 S40 T5 AWD) w/ 99 R angle gear OEM single mass flywheel, Sachs SD 693 clutch, OEM 850 R pressure plate P80 clutch master cylinder, new P80 clutch master to slave cylinder line, new P1 FTE (OE) slave cylinder P1 shifter and cables, R Design aluminum shift knob PDV Motorsports upgraded collar gear Colorado Driveshaft remanufactured 99 R driveshaft New OEM coolant reservoir/cap/hoses, new OEM water pipe hoses Rack Doctor remanufactured steering rack w/ inner tie rods and new OEM outer tie rods. New OEM 05+ power steering reservoir, new OEM 05+ suction hose, new OEM return hose, new OEM steering column u-joint. OEM sway bar with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings and custom adjustable endlinks I spent a couple hours cleaning and degreasing the engine bay. I also installed a VW 99 adjustable wiper relay; which is one of my favorite convenience modifications for these cars. 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quiksilver Posted February 7, 2018 Report Share Posted February 7, 2018 Yass Queen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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