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100K mile club


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My 2006 V70R only has 5,112 miles so far.......!

I just passed 3,000 with my '07 V70R. Engaged in possible sale, and the buyer drives 150mi/day!! So if sale goes through, he'll put more miles/ month than I have in 14 months! Buyer is not AlexD.

:lol:

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I just passed 3,000 with my '07 V70R. Engaged in possible sale, and the buyer drives 150mi/day!! So if sale goes through, he'll put more miles/ month than I have in 14 months! Buyer is not AlexD.

:lol:

Gasp! Selling your '07? Why?

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Gasp! Selling your '07? Why?

Simple scenario right now:

+ I found an '08 AMG wagon, drove it, loved it...

+ Dealer offered me $35,000 on my trade,

+ But then a former colleague offered $40k as he is getting out of his leased S60R as he wants a clean R wagon

+ And then a private seller of '07 AMG wagon just called y'day cutting his ask price to $70k... so I'm on the fence this weekend

By Monday, I'll be done torturing myself. I expect to keep the R b/c as you see, I don't drive enough to justify a garage queen. That's especially true since we're in the process of getting our garage re-built.

Five years ago I wouldn't have spent more than 2 minutes thinking this all over, and would have just gone for the AMG. What to do...

Cheers

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  • 4 weeks later...
Now how many miles are on the new engine ?

http://www.v70r.com/forums/index.php?showt...amp;#entry59222

The new motor has 27K on it now.. But the motor didn't fail due to wear; it seems that it failed due to a clogged crank case vent valve sucking oil from the crank case into the intake causing the the cylinders to hydro-lock with oil. After talking with a master Volvo tech it seems that all the Volvo models back to the early 90s have had this problem from sludge build up, usually causing burnt intake valves from small amounts of additional oil entering the intake system. (at first I assumed it was caused by a faulty radiator, or the turbo blowing the seals- but neither really made any sense)- otherwise most of the drive train is original, including the GT5 automagic, the Haldex, and rear diff, all 4 half shafts are original. The Bevel gear was replaced at 130K due to a noise, which happened to be a front wheel bearing after the fact. Struts (one was replaced when it was new for clunking) and sway bar links are original. AC system is blowing cold on its original charge.

The previous owner was a salesman who covered the entire North East, he put 213,000 miles on the car between 04 and 07 - I bought it directly from him and replaced the motor myself. Since purchasing the car we have put 11,000 miles on it in a little over 5 months without any problems. It still looks and drives like a brand new car- the only sign of high mileage is the front bumper and head lights are heavly road rashed- doesn't even wear tires uneven. We have almost 9K on the Bridgestone Potenza RE760 and they aren't cupping at all- I cross rotate front and rear every 5K (non directional tires) thats why I bought the RE760's. I will bring it to a meet one of these days!

So don't worry about 100K -your good to go- maybe change that crancase vent valve sometime in the next 100K?? Its a pain in the @$$ to change, but well worth it! They said the use of Synthetic oil should help due to less sludge build-up.

TM

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The new motor has 27K on it now.. But the motor didn't fail due to wear; it seems that it failed due to a clogged crank case vent valve sucking oil from the crank case into the intake causing the the cylinders to hydro-lock with oil. After talking with a master Volvo tech it seems that all the Volvo models back to the early 90s have had this problem from sludge build up, usually causing burnt intake valves from small amounts of additional oil entering the intake system. (at first I assumed it was caused by a faulty radiator, or the turbo blowing the seals- but neither really made any sense)- otherwise most of the drive train is original, including the GT5 automagic, the Haldex, and rear diff, all 4 half shafts are original. The Bevel gear was replaced at 130K due to a noise, which happened to be a front wheel bearing after the fact. Struts (one was replaced when it was new for clunking) and sway bar links are original. AC system is blowing cold on its original charge.

The previous owner was a salesman who covered the entire North East, he put 213,000 miles on the car between 04 and 07 - I bought it directly from him and replaced the motor myself. Since purchasing the car we have put 11,000 miles on it in a little over 5 months without any problems. It still looks and drives like a brand new car- the only sign of high mileage is the front bumper and head lights are heavly road rashed- doesn't even wear tires uneven. We have almost 9K on the Bridgestone Potenza RE760 and they aren't cupping at all- I cross rotate front and rear every 5K (non directional tires) thats why I bought the RE760's. I will bring it to a meet one of these days!

So don't worry about 100K -your good to go- maybe change that crancase vent valve sometime in the next 100K?? Its a pain in the @$ to change, but well worth it! They said the use of Synthetic oil should help due to less sludge build-up.

TM

Regardless of the engine stuff, that is amazing to hear :angry: I was expecting you to say that you changed the suspension module, the ABS module, the vacuum lines, the brake lines, the heater core, the A/C evaporator, the fan blower motor, and all things that commonly fail on Volvos ... Amazing...

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The new motor has 27K on it now..

TM

So I hate to ask, but how much did the new engine cost?

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