Big Will Posted April 25, 2011 Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 As far as I know, Viva does not have a flywheel that converts the dual mass M66 application to the single mass 850R style application. Here is a link to the clutches and flywheels: http://www.vivaperformance.com/categories/Volvo/V70-classic/Drivetrain/Good selection though.I stand corrected: http://www.vivaperformance.com/categories/Volvo/S60R-%26-V70R/Drivetrain/I was looking on the wrong page! Sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 As far as I know, Viva does not have a flywheel that converts the dual mass M66 application to the single mass 850R style application. Here is a link to the clutches and flywheels: http://www.vivaperfo...sic/Drivetrain/Good selection though.I stand corrected: http://www.vivaperfo...70R/Drivetrain/I was looking on the wrong page! Sorry.Looks like a KU flywheel. Would have likely ended up slightly cheaper, given that shipping in the US can't be £100!!! KU flywheel(bolts not included)"Viva" version Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasw Posted April 25, 2011 Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 The pistons come with recesses, I'm not sure it's that bad. The motor was running @ low rpms when it happened. I'm hoping for the best, I'm not dropping the bottom end in my driveway Aaaah. Doesn't look quite as bad in that case. Still ouch though. Hey i wasn't even game to pull the head on mine when I, errm, cooked it. Now that the original motor is in my garage I am arming myself with the assorted tools required and am going to give it a crack myself How safe is it to leave one of there engines on an engine stand for extended periods BTW? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 Aaaah. Doesn't look quite as bad in that case. Still ouch though. Hey i wasn't even game to pull the head on mine when I, errm, cooked it. Now that the original motor is in my garage I am arming myself with the assorted tools required and am going to give it a crack myself How safe is it to leave one of there engines on an engine stand for extended periods BTW?Indefinitely, I'd say. I have my old short block in the basement, used it for reference & mock up for the new head/cams. I would recommend coating the bores with some grease if you plan to leave the head off for an extended time period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasw Posted April 25, 2011 Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 Thanks mate. I hope that's a mockup assembly with the phillips head bolts holding the top cover on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 Thanks mate. I hope that's a mockup assembly with the phillips head bolts holding the top cover on Those are the torx screws for the injector cover - there are no cams installed in that photo...Put the head back on last night.When I get home, I'll install the cams & check valve lift & piston clearance with a boroscope - not taking any chances on Take II Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 Put the cams back in - aligned the reference markers, set & torqued the cam hubs/gears so that the slots are straight up with the timing as Enem spec'd @ TDC on #1With the piston @ TDC, I rotated the intake cam until the valve contacted the piston. It took about a tooth of advance to get thereUsing a boroscope, I looked at the clearance @ 1.5mm lift, then opened the valves - here's three stages viewed with the boroscopeclearance @ 1.5mm liftclearance @ 1/2 tooth advanceapprox 1 tooth advanceI advanced the cam gear in the slots so that there is less than 1 tooth advance left.Difference between early & late breather box - outlet is in the same spot, cam vent is moved outward & cam vent hose is revised to accommodate the changeAdded my drain back port & installedSomehow I put my longer intake manifold bolts (m7x40) somewhere very safe, now I can't find them - so I took some longer bolts & threaded them further down the shank & shortened them to 40mm.Tomorrow I just have to put the intake & plumbing back on & it'll be ready to roll. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 My solution to the breather box issue - the cam vent hits the bottom of the intake, so I chopped that down & added a new port just a little back. I have a used one that I cut in half, so I knew where it was safe to drill without interfering with the vent bafflingAll clear now, manifold fits over , no problemAll back together & running Fuel & FPR vacuum hard lines are run under the upper timing cover, I notched it in two places to clear the lines.Just drove it gently around, so I don't yet know how it will perform. Vacuum is good at idle, back to 18inHg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasw Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 So you'll be puckering the old spincter for a little while then as you putt about nervously Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 So you'll be puckering the old spincter for a little while then as you putt about nervously Umm, yeah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasw Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 Just been reading your original build thread on VS. Living the dream man. A dream most of the rest of us tend not to act on for various reasons. Good on you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 So you'll be puckering the old spincter for a little while then as you putt about nervously Now that my sphincter has relaxed somewhat - I got on it harder - a few WOT runs in 3rd-4th, to see how the AFR's look. I had fattened up the mid throttle fuel load cells by 30%, as it was way to lean with the new head & cams. Only running 15psi in these logs - logger underreports by approx 1.5psigraphsFeels great. Now I feel comfortable with the AFR's, I'm going to raise the boost & see if the timing holds up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 TT COP PackageWorked on revising the COP wiring & boxes to suit the way I want it installed - everything in the ECU box for optimum waterproof/weather protection. Moved the power supply to a Volvo 700 cruise control module housing - now it will fit next to the TT ECUMade the COP harness one piece from power supply to coil packs, lengthened the power supply cabling, shortened the ballast - power supply cable.Flashed the TT COP ECU with my tune & ran it to confirm basic functionality still using distributor.Had to make a shoulder to allow the COP connector to clear the ECU cover - the connector is too tallShould now be able to get all the wiring in the car during the week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzantushka1568908311 Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 Awesome... just awesome.If MacGyver was into Volvos, he would be your apprentice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAZ-13B Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 Please do some youtube vids and show us mere mortals how this baby goes One question, do you use genuine Volvo sealant when fitting the top cover back on the head ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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