Tzantushka1568908311 Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Price from RockAuto has gone up!Have updated the original post for new readers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s60Rrookie Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Exceptional guide! On behalf of the many R enthusiasts, Thank you! Can you offer any suggestions on help purchasing parts and how to replace of the 4C rear struts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzantushka1568908311 Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Exceptional guide! On behalf of the many R enthusiasts, Thank you! Can you offer any suggestions on help purchasing parts and how to replace of the 4C rear struts? Should be able to source the rears from RockAuto, FCP & your dealers...Will dig up some info on the rears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slarsen77 Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Installed new front struts, lowered the car and finished by installing the nut cap on the end of the strut but it didn't fit the new nut.I proceded and used my air impact to remove the new and replace with the old one so the cap would fit. In tightening the old nut, with the air impact wrench, the strut shaft spun, so I finished with an allen wrench and box wrench.Now the strut is kluncking and feels loose. Is this strut now damaged??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzantushka1568908311 Posted April 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 (edited) Sorry to hear that... Are you talking about the plastic cap that covers the nut?If yes, I mention that in the original post = Notes to VIDA instructionsThe plastic cap requires some persuasion, but it does fit on the larger top nut. With your current situation, could be two things: 1) upper strut hardware may be loose or not seatedSuch as the strut bearing, washer, cross nut etc.Check everything is seated and re-torque correctly with counter-hold 2) strut shaft or upper spring seat is kaput-skiDepends how much rotation the shaft went through...You will need to remove and inspect the strut to make sure. Edited April 9, 2015 by Tzantushka Tidy-up formatting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cr4sht3st Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 One question, is this part number correct? Can't find this nut anywhere. IF not, what is the size/thread? #10 - Strut to steering knuckle nuts (x4)- P/N 982780 (flange screw) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzantushka1568908311 Posted May 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 (edited) Will check for you in the morning.Ipd sells them - see: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/9074/120406-front-strut-lower-lock-nut-p2-s60-s80-v70-xc70?crumbs=P0,P9075 Edit: You are right. Oops. Looks like I had the incorrect part number.Have updated the first post. Should be:#10 - Strut to steering knuckle nuts (x4)- P/N 982870 (flange screw) Edited May 25, 2015 by Tzantushka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SharkGTS Posted July 13, 2015 Report Share Posted July 13, 2015 I just got my Struts done in a local shop, I supplied the parts XC90 mounts. The ride over rough pavement sounds like someone hand drumming on a table top. Told the shop about it. Now this weekend opened the hood to check oil and my eyeballs popped. The have about 1" of thread exposed at the top of the strut. ie If the plastic cover caps were installed they would look like a joke. Did these guys absolutely crank the nuts to achieve this?? The spring must be really compressed correct? I didn't think it was possible to do something like that without eliminating a washer or other part. I seriously looked at my hood liner wondering if this poked a hole in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzantushka1568908311 Posted July 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 Can you take a picture? I hope they haven't forgotten any items in the exploded diagram - especially item #3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SharkGTS Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 I do have a good pix - had to upload to our webserver. Now the problem with this is the spring is more compressed, ride height is probably a bit lower, spring "pre-load" is increased so the ride is stiffer (which it is). With no chassis calibration, the previous calibration is more "off" than if the dimensions/spec were closer. Just drums over rough pavement and I'm getting some oversteer particularly in the wet which isn't too good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phoenix R Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 It's been a while since I did my struts, but I don't remember any way the nut could be "overtightened" to cause too much of the threaded shaft to show above the upper nut. From what I remember, I torqued the star nut, assembled everything, then torqued the upper nut until everything was tight as could be. It seems the only way the shaft would stick out too far is if a part were left out or the shaft is longer than factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzantushka1568908311 Posted July 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 Agree. Something doesn't look right there.I'll take a pic on the weekend and compare. It looks like the strut top washer (item #2) is screwed hard against the top of the strut bearing (item #5) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SharkGTS Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 strut shaft>spring mount>Cross Nut> washer> Main nut. Parts are from Rockauto, ordered up like last time. If there was a problem with the part they should have alerted me right away. Looks like they missed the cross nut. I went in and said Hey guys this is bonkers which prompted: "you supplied the parts" "We have to torque it down otherwise it's loose" and on and on. I need to get time to take it to the dealer, do the proper chassis calib too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SharkGTS Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 The system is supposed to float (on the spring) with some downward travel available. Now in this setup I am losing the downward travel, which explains why the suspension is not reacting properly and also my handling is affected (sway bar won't operate correctly either!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SharkGTS Posted July 23, 2015 Report Share Posted July 23, 2015 I should be able to inspect and fix (assuming I get the cross nut) without having to remove from the car. The tricky part will be to prevent the strut plunger arm from retracting! If it does that then it will be a gong show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.