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455hp, thinking you need to upgrade... (pix of my new setup)


torpis

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torpis wrote on Sat, 20 December 2008 12:20

tcode wrote on Sat, 20 December 2008 12:08

torpis wrote on Sat, 20 December 2008 17:46

tcode wrote on Sat, 20 December 2008 11:11

torpis wrote on Sat, 20 December 2008 17:06

I already changed cams...

Sold already I guess Sad

Yes,,, sold even a month before I changhed lol... some things do not collect dust for long on the shelf Razz

I can however make you new ones Smile

I know, but price probably won't be that good as for used part is.

Redo stock cams för 450hp operation is $330 Smile

any letter agressive cams? but more than stock?

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sacsha1 wrote on Sat, 20 December 2008 17:24

torpis wrote on Sat, 20 December 2008 12:20

tcode wrote on Sat, 20 December 2008 12:08

torpis wrote on Sat, 20 December 2008 17:46

tcode wrote on Sat, 20 December 2008 11:11

torpis wrote on Sat, 20 December 2008 17:06

I already changed cams...

Sold already I guess Sad

Yes,,, sold even a month before I changhed lol... some things do not collect dust for long on the shelf Razz

I can however make you new ones Smile

I know, but price probably won't be that good as for used part is.

Redo stock cams för 450hp operation is $330 Smile

any letter agressive cams? but more than stock?

you can get about 268degrees and 10.8mm lift from stock cams which supports 420hp om petrol and a bit more on E85. (my old cams were 260degrees 9mm lift)

slightly ported head but still stock valves.

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This brings back some memories for sure and I'm 100% positive that this will be a killer engine. As Torpis previously explained, a few shortcuts always need to be made as "lack of space" prevents the best theoretical solutions under the bonnet to happen.

Back in the days, my old S40 pushin 420 bhp's on regular gas with 27 Psi's of boost was concidered to be kind of a cool ride... I now realize that this is no longer the case. Rolling Eyes

Good luck with the project !!!

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tcode wrote on Sun, 21 December 2008 15:39

GerBeGurGya wrote on Sun, 21 December 2008 21:34

xcites40 wrote on Sun, 21 December 2008 13:22

Swedish got all the money and balls to do this type of project car Very Happy

Its all about skills.

And the money. A lot's of it.

actually it is mostly about skills, but not always my skills. I am an engineer and pretty familiar with both the mechanical, electrical and software parts. first of all I know very well that I DON'T know everyhing, so I ill ask for help where my knowlege ends.

asking for the things that are unsure and beeing clever designing my own solutions haveing friends produce them are the key... unless you have unlimited cash supplies Wink

hand me $20000 and I'll return you a turn key 450hp S40 engine, mounted in your car ready to race in 3 weeks WinkVery Happy

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VolVoF0RliFe wrote on Mon, 22 December 2008 22:43

all you need is one of them 81mm Swedish blocks and you can make it your self.

Exactly. Just buy a 81 mm bore engine and the rest sort of takes care of itself. Basically, just looking at that engine will automatically rebuild it totally (by itself), put it under the bonnet and program itself like by a miracle.

These 81 mm engines are something special... Razz

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1clean01 wrote on Mon, 22 December 2008 17:12

torpis wrote on Mon, 22 December 2008 14:20

hand me $20000 and I'll return you a turn key 450hp S40 engine, mounted in your car ready to race in 3 weeks WinkVery Happy

how much for a turnkey 300whp daily driver?

You can get "300hp" with a 19T turbo, 3" exhaust and re tune of the ECU. If you apply the 450+hp tricks to a 300hp engine it will run very nice! enhance the crank case ventialation, modify the pistons for better cooling, ported head, H-beam rods and modified fuelsystem. Then you will get a 320hp engine running very smooth for as many miles as a sock engine would Smile

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VolVoF0RliFe wrote on Mon, 22 December 2008 22:43

1clean01 wrote on Mon, 22 December 2008 17:12

how much for a turnkey 300whp daily driver?

all you need is one of them 81mm Swedish blocks and you can make it your self.

Also there are theories that it is't really the 83mm bore that kills it, but the slot between the cylinders. the slot is 0.6mm on the older engines and 0.8mm on the newer blocks. with the 0.6mm gap the water boils away creating a hotspot cracking the cylinder wall... There are a bunch of guys filling the slot to prevent this happen...

A cool 850 engine is bored out to 84mm, running ET10.10 in the 1/4mile, 153-ish trap speed... but that is not a daily driver.

I never hear a 81mm crack, so better go with the 81mm even if the newer 83mm might hold up if modified the correct way...

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So how much for an 81mm block with cooling mods done? If I had the bottom end of an 81mm block built with forged rods and pistons (everything balanced) could I then bolt on my B4204T3 head? Or would I be best off swapping to a 81mm block complete engine?

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