My T4

[tcode1568908558]

Tested the limit of the hydro lifters on my engine. After short reving at 7200 rpm's two hydro valve lifters started to knock on idle for about 5 mins. After that period they settled back to normal. So, basically that means 7000 rpm should be a kind of safe limit.

Now, I spoke to Andy who suggested me to swap hydro lifters with mech ones. According to him it can be done on this head I currently have (a head with hydro lifters), keeping both head and cams.

Does anyone did this conversion with success?

[torpis]

tcode wrote on Wed, 17 June 2009 01:02

Now, I spoke to Andy who suggested me to swap hydro lifters with mech ones. According to him it can be done on this head I currently have (a head with hydro lifters), keeping both head and cams. Does anyone did this conversion with success?

Yes it can be done... byt why?

16 lifters cost the same as a complete head of a N/A ph2. you will gain larger ports, larger valves hotter cams and not the least the cams are already adjusted and you don't have to spend half a day messuring and adjusting the gaps between cam and lifter.

just buy my aluminum retainers specially developed for the 6mm valves, they will fit Volvo 850 springs (or even your stock ph1 springs) which will allow 8000rpm or so. then fit an inner spring and you can rev 10000rpm or so

[tcode1568908558]

torpis wrote on Wed, 17 June 2009 11:27

Yes it can be done... byt why? 16 lifters cost the same as a complete head of a N/A ph2. you will gain larger ports, larger valves hotter cams and not the least the cams are already adjusted and you don't have to spend half a day messuring and adjusting the gaps between cam and lifter. just buy my aluminum retainers specially developed for the 6mm valves, they will fit Volvo 850 springs (or even your stock ph1 springs) which will allow 8000rpm or so. then fit an inner spring and you can rev 10000rpm or so

I already have 16 mech valve lifters, so most of them probably could be used - meaning don't need to buy all sixteen. Plus, I don't need to take off the head form the engine - meaning I don't need to pay for machine job of the head, I don't need to buy head gasket etc.

Basically, all I need is (boring job) measuring the gaps and buy a few non matching lifters.

Later, when I will be rebuilding the hole engine, will pay attention about the head too and probably do as you suggested .

[torpis]

Ah okey then just buy a bunch of lashcaps and put the lifters through the lathe to ge the right gaps. do it very carefully as you don't want it to rattle too much.

but... if haveing the cams out needing to adjust the gap you could aswell regrind them too hihi

[tcode1568908558]

Tropis,

if I buy n/a ph2 head, do I have to change valves, aren't valves for a turbo engines different (filled with some liquid for extra cooling)?

[torpis]

they are the same from what i know. most of the cooling of the valve is through the disk it self when the valve is closed. We usually cut new fresh surfaces on the valve seat useing a Mira tool to get a good seal and good heat transfer.

[mobman]

hey tcode and torpis

do you guys happen to have the ECU wire diagrams and color chart etc? I have bought a AEM FIC (fuel ignition and timing controller) and need to intercept a bunch of ECU wires including the injector wires, MAP/MAF, o2 wires and bunch more. Can any of you high performance Gods help me?

[tcode1568908558]

Here you go.

[mobman]

tcode wrote on Wed, 24 June 2009 03:05

Here you go.

wow alright first off thanks man but i am no electrician and it seems everything in here is coded?? Where are injector cables? etc?

I am totally confused. lol

[superbovine]

This should help, it's a list of all the component codes. Everything else is standard electrical.

[Sute1568908560]

torpis wrote on Wed, 17 June 2009 02:27

tcode wrote on Wed, 17 June 2009 01:02 Now, I spoke to Andy who suggested me to swap hydro lifters with mech ones. According to him it can be done on this head I currently have (a head with hydro lifters), keeping both head and cams. Does anyone did this conversion with success? Yes it can be done... byt why? 16 lifters cost the same as a complete head of a N/A ph2. you will gain larger ports, larger valves hotter cams and not the least the cams are already adjusted and you don't have to spend half a day messuring and adjusting the gaps between cam and lifter. just buy my aluminum retainers specially developed for the 6mm valves, they will fit Volvo 850 springs (or even your stock ph1 springs) which will allow 8000rpm or so. then fit an inner spring and you can rev 10000rpm or so

What is the size for N/A ph2 valves (in / out). Is N/A ph2 head with mechanical lifters?

[torpis]

Sute wrote on Thu, 25 June 2009 03:12

Is N/A ph2 head with mechanical lifters?

Yes 2000-> mech = good

[WernerT4]

So a 2000-2004 T4 head comes with mechanical lifters and it will fit on my 98 T4 without any changes? Is it true that the sump (oil pan) O-rings can cause hydrualic lifters to start knocking? Is this a common problem? My lifters are knocking like crazy after 1 minute on startup

[torpis]

WernerT4 wrote on Thu, 25 June 2009 08:11

So a 2000-2004 T4 head comes with mechanical lifters and it will fit on my 98 T4 without any changes? Is it true that the sump (oil pan) O-rings can cause hydrualic lifters to start knocking? Is this a common problem? My lifters are knocking like crazy after 1 minute on startup

I already tried to help you in this problem... if you engine still is ratteling start a thread about it and I'm sure people will help you. Also a ratteling head is not a Big Project and not about tcode's engine build.

[Sute1568908560]

torpis wrote on Thu, 25 June 2009 06:10

Sute wrote on Thu, 25 June 2009 03:12 Is N/A ph2 head with mechanical lifters? Yes 2000-> mech = good

Yeah! What about the valve size then? Diameter in / out?