Vykis199009 Posted August 23, 2020 Report Share Posted August 23, 2020 Short story of my car, wich i bought in 2015, from factoy it had 2.5 142kw engine... 2016 1 month pure stock, then tune to 160kw. Not enough, bought 16t turbo. Local guy tuned motronic 4.4, made pops and bangs, was fun ๐*never went to dyno, butt dyno says it had around 190kw. Broke engine after summer, bent all rods coz i didn`t care about engine health anymore since i knew it wont hold 300+ safe.* * 2017 2.0l 132kw engine from s60 (the one with 9.5 compression) k24 turbo, e85, walbro 255, siemens deka 630cc, some crap fmic from iveco daily, self tuned, made 302hp/500nm at 1bar, was very rich at dyno, lots of misfires coz of that (at street was all perfect at 1.6 overboost, tappering to 1.4 bar, guesses around 330hp, but turbo was old, tired, broke the turbo after 3 months of driving). Bought forged rods, opened engine, and then realised 139.5 ones wont fin. Overall engine was in good shape, but i was lazy to put it back together, everything went to metal, oh well... Then bought hx35 turbo with 54mm 7 blades wheel and started to look for b5234t engine.* 2018 Found engine, with forged rods, very cheap, had only 4k km after rebuild. Skipped year, was gathering parts suchs as full alu radiator, tubular manifold, 600x300x100mm intercooler, piping, brakes, wheels, standalone ecu.. 2019 Winter ended with making all engine wiring for Ecumaster Emu Classic, puting brakes, etc. Found Brembo calipers from alfa romeo, bought Rottinger slotted disk, 336mm front, stock diameter rear. Ferodo premier pads, some nice BBS wheels, 8j front, 9j rear. with 225/45 semi slick tyres up front, 245/40 rear. Also changed fuel pump to Walbro 450, did some wiring upgrade for it, also bought siemens deka 875cc injectors, FPR regulator. After puting everything together, spent maybe a week, till i managed to start the car with standalone ecu without tune, no base map, nothing, 5 evenings sent just to make the car start.. Few more days to make it run from garage on herself. And sadly, engine wasn`t in so good shape as i thought, 30km later, just when i went for base tune to a locar tuner, lost oil pressure at 1.3 bar WOT 3rd gear, spun all bearings, 2 rods became black, 2 bearrings melted and became part of crank, yay! Good thing i had crank from 2017 season engine and new set of cxracing rods. Rebuilded engine with new crank, new rods, stock pistons and rings was still in good shape, so i left them. King racing rods bearing, King main bearings, D5 oil cooler, etc etc. Finally engine was runing great, did 100km break in, changed oil for Valvoline vr1 10w60, went to tune it again. Lots of boost leaks, boost coming very slow ant late, 1.5 bar 435ag/580nm... Tuner said my engine cant breath or turbo is maxed out (boost solenoid DC at 50% only, with 0.8 bar base pressure spring. Okay, weekend at garage, fixing boost leaks. Decided to tune it myself, since i had pretty much good map allready, good ignition table. 1.9 bar "overboost" tappering to 1.8 at 6k, 1.7 at 7k rpm(or backpressure, or wastegate spring was over, 100% duty cycle and couldn`t raise boost anymore). Injectors duty ~88-90% at 3.5bar base fuel pressure (siemends deka 875cc@3bar). 449ag/644nm, sounds a bit better, finnaly car is kinda fast, even without LSD i managed to make 0-100kmh in 5.5s, and 9s 1/8 mile in few tries, even did 8s 100-200 with rolling anti-lag. Without it, best i managed, was 8.6 (rev`ing to 6.8, when no point to rev more than 6.2 as i saw later, after looking at logs and trying different variations of gear change). Boost by gear* helps a lot. Sadly, B.itch broke after 1.2k km...... Some pictures from build before engine decided to brake. ย And look what broke! Log was clean, no detonation, no lean afr, nothing bad. Just few pulls, and lots of smoke...* Spark plugs looks good, still have no idea what went wrong ๐Bye bye cylinder #5. Funny thing, all rest looks good, pistons, rods, rings, ringlands, bearings, everything good everywhere except #5..* TBH even #5 piston didn`t broke, just melted a bit from cylinder wall. Cyl #5 rod bearings, ony ones wich in bad shape Piston looks like it hit the head, but on head no marks indicating this happened, also i don`t understand how this is possible, unless crank broke, or somehow it got bent in few pulls. Coz this happened few days after last dyno. Overall i drove around 400km with 1.8-1.9 bar, and i took this car to drive not for simple cruise, but for WOT runs,* to have some fun. (don`t mind grooves from valves, not my job, old engine owner broke smth, and used these pistons in next engine, budget builds, you know... ๐*) AAAAAAAAnd plan for 2020 * Got tired of braking stuff. Bought built b5204t (that old one, with 77 stroke, 8.4 comp. ratio). Engine was built 5 years ago for drag racing, by local builders who proven by community, they have hands how to build engines. Domes around cylinders, custom head studs, custom FCP rods (4mm wider than china ones). Fully rebuilt and ported head with hidro lifters. All cleaned, changed what was necessary, everything measured. Engine was never fired, a guy left project for few years. Took it apart for cleaning, didn`t liked glyco bearings (not sputter ones, wtf).* The difference of rods/pistons 2.0 vs 2.3 ๐ Yes,* both rods is same lenght! Since there is no 2.0 forged pistons, i will make 2.3 from this block, don`t like the design of 2.0 pistons, and since i`m lucky with oil pressure, it will be way easier to get 90mm crank instead of 77 one, just in case, you know ๐ Some pics of block and head ports Soooo, winter was lazy, now coz of virus, things not going fast as i want also. Engine is almost ready to drop in, LSD is in. I actually was kinda surprised how gearbox internals are in excellent shape. Idk if i was smart, but ordered wiseco 81.25 oversize, block was in really good shape, just needed minor oversize. MLS headgasket ofc, 12.9 metal head studs, torqued to 130nm with arp lube. ย I did rings kinda loose, 0.5mm top and 0.55mm 2nd. King`s main bearings, glyco sputter rod dones, RN oil pump, d5 oil cooler. A friend helped me with head porting, went all in basicly. And sadly, no cams for now, will try GLT ones (maybe someone can give some guidelines on how to time these cams for 64mm turbo?). Waiting for custom turbo to arive in few weeks, then i can drop engine in and take car to shop for exhaust manifold and downpipe, some pipes fabrication. Oh, and also bought kl racing intake manifold. That thing will need more work than i expected. Lots of gasket matching, cast/welds grinding, vacuum ports welding (or maybe i`ll just weld some plate for "vacuum tree"). Dunno yet, but i think i`ll need to modify termostat housing a bit, for manifold to fit, also relocate temp sensor somewhere else. Spent half day porting that "almost bolt on" kl racing manifold (some casting still gonna need some shaving, i didn`t had enough lenght drill bits to do that for now). Holes for bolts needed to be raised up about 2mm, runners needed to be shaved kinda a lot. Thermostat housing will need 20mm adapter plate to be raised up. Also gonna need adapter for 960 throttle body (all would be fine if not TPS sensor and spring). Oh, and also i had to cut some of the flange of intake, it was hiting thermostat housing lower parts. ย Some updates. Made throttle body adapter, termostat housing adapter, changed place of CLT sensor. Manifold is welded, ghetto connections for vacum lines, idle, brake booster. Everything kinda fits, except TB touches coolant radiator fan housing (will try lower all radiator about 10mm, problem should be solved, else i`ll just cut a piece from fan housing). Still need to figure out how to connect cable to TB, make some bracket to hold oil level dip stick, connect few coolant hoses, some minor things.ย Also, finally my turbo arrived. Turbosystems HX4064b1, proven for solid 750 at the crank. ย Well, things are going slow. Kinda finished intake side, changed control arms to pre `94 with poly bushing from kl racing, changed gearbox torque mount bigger bushing to poly one, right side mount to MPRE custom one, did some PCV "fix" for high boost and waiting for my exhaust manifold to be finished. Like allways, when i`m doing something to the car, keep forgeting to make pictures if everything will go by the plan, car should be runing in a week, max two. ย Manifold is finally rdy, machined flanges surfaces to be flat, did some hammering to few runners, needed to make 2mm extra clearance near valve cover Turbo is in! Cold side had to be clocked a little more, than it is on the photo. I`m surprised how much room left everywhere around turbo (except rear pillow bracket) ย So i`ve been working on car past few weeks almost at nights, to get it ready for local drag event (1/4 mile). ย Only few photos from all finishing touches Got car tuned only few days before event, no time even to learn how it drives, but i`m very happy how this family sedan turned out. Pulls like a train (need cams, spings, engine feels like it asks for more rev range, ol), no leaks, no bugs, spent all weekend driving quarter mile 1 run after another with 33+ temperature outside, very hot day. IAT was 50-60, sometimes 70c, car holds like a tank Drag event was held in one of town public streets, so u can`t expect good grip there. I also saw how bad is "drift" semi-slick tyres with huge TW numbers, needs loooots of heat to even start to work a bit. On the dyno we had falling boost, not reaching it`s target, supposed to hold 2.1bar, but ended with 2bar, i think with 2.2 solid, on colder day, could be 600 easy. 1st day we tuned with 6800rpm rev limited (don`t ask why, tune error), we made 500 with 1.85bar, played with ignition, a bit more boost, and few runs later 550 with 2.1bar, power peak@6.2k rpm. Fixed bugs, went on dyno next day, a bit hotter day, +10c higher intake temps, just with rev limiter set at 7500, made 564, even boost was a bit lower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vykis199009 Posted September 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 Finally got my XC bumper "mod" done Wanted to do this for over a year allready Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing3 Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 Too much reading but I always thought you wanted the HP/torque to cross around 5250. ย ย ย that looks crazy low IMO. ย ย I love torque but it breaks stuff.ย ย ย Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 16 hours ago, flyfishing3 said: Too much reading but I always thought you wanted the HP/torque to cross around 5250. ย ย that looks crazy low IMO. ย ย I love torque but it breaks stuff.ย Imperialย HP and torque (in ft lbs) have to cross at 5250 rpm because of the mathematical relationship between the two units of measurement. If you use different units, then the rpm crossover point changes because the mathematical definitionsย are different. Missed your earlier updates, this is an awesome build! Great work and nice numbers!! New XCย bumper looks really good tooย Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vykis199009 Posted September 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 numbers are low, knowing what turbo can give ย i`m still at 44% wastegate solenoid duty cycle, just don`t see point of raising boost more for now. Need more rpm range, to make all that power usefull. Gonna try to do that in winter, also full rear suspension rebuild, bc racing coils, ant "smarter" ecu. Can`t decide yet, go for EMU black or Maxxecu race. Main reason for ecu upgrade (now i have emu classic) is e-throttle, few more temperature sensors, 2 stage launch, pre turbo/post turbo back pressure sensors and also i want individual egt sensors for each cylinder, before i go "full send to the moon" ย Oh, forgot flex fuel sensor (main reason is to monitor/dial in fuel on different e85 temps, noticed big impact in fuel trims when fuel gets hot, can lean out from 11.5 to 12.5 in few 1/4 runs on hot day) and fuel cooler on return line Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vykis199009 Posted October 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2020 Aaaaand cyl2 cracked... 2.2 bar boost pressure on cold evening, butt metter says it was around 600hp. few kilometers after pull, coolant temp started to rise fast. Oh well.. No signs of detonation, overheating, nothing bad or unusual in logs. At least everything else inside engine is good, just need put everything in new block. Gonna send other block to latvia, they will do full closed deck modification, eliminating that annyoing groove between cylinders ย Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing3 Posted October 12, 2020 Report Share Posted October 12, 2020 Why not sleeve it while you are at it.ย Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vykis199009 Posted October 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2020 If you`re talking about dartons, u can get the only for 83mm bore, my forged pistons are 81.25... And do sleeves at my local shop is kinda expensive, and questionable quallity. Stock sleeves are almost 3mmย thickness, should be enough with css bracing. Now i`m at this point, where if css won`t hold, i`ll sell out this car to parts. Not gonna spend another 3.5k for dartons, different rods and pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing3 Posted October 12, 2020 Report Share Posted October 12, 2020 yeah, makes sense when you break it down that way. ย You going to use concrete? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vykis199009 Posted October 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2020 http://satistech.com/offer/closing-volvo-engine-blocks/ย same sollution like this, there is shop in latvia who do this for subaru block for a long time allready, they said no problem to do it on volvo one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted October 13, 2020 Report Share Posted October 13, 2020 Nice read! Thank you. Best of luck on the closed deck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonness Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 good stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vykis199009 Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 On 10/14/2020 at 12:28 AM, apeacock said: Nice read! Thank you. Best of luck on the closed deck. Thank you ย block should be done this month i hope. Ordered new ecu also, going for Maxxecu race. e-throttle, individual egt`s, ebp sensor, coolant pressire sensor maybe... Some catcams stuff. Just saw swede guy made 800 to the crank with same turbo as i have, to i`m gonna push to 750 i think, if single walbro 525 will be enough... As soon as i`ll get my block done, gonna post some pictures on how css is done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted January 4, 2021 Report Share Posted January 4, 2021 Darton sleeves can most certainly be ordered in 81mm bore. Darton PN 800-555. Dartons with minimum .003" step deck and MLS gasket and a strong 12.9 TTY bolt is the strongest possible combination. If you are using a RN block you need to make sure its machined correctly for the RN coolant divider. They get a bad reputation because shops either do garbage machine work or don't step deck them properly... they however are the strongest. With the MID design you basically get a CSS but you also get rid of the weak cylinder liner. Even with CSS and a fairly thick cylinder liner the material itself is still inherently weak... in this case the oem material is grey iron. According to Volvo "The grey iron cylinder liners are cast-in during the high-pressure die-cast process of the cylinder block. The liners offer high wear resistance and reduce the risk for leaks. The production process is also cost-effective and environmentally friendly."ย Volvo states the material is specifically chosen to offer high wear resistance and its cheap and easy to machine. There will come a point where even with the CSS keeping the cylinders and deck very stiff together the material will fail (crack) because it just isn't as ductile as needed to hold up to the amount of abuse that is being thrown at it... where since the darton is made from a very ductile material it can give and go all its wants under high abuse and still not fail ( crack). What it will come down to is examining the S-N curve of each material. This will allow you to predict how my cycles (in this case lets say 3rd gear pulls or something) before the liner fails. Here you can see a comparison between GCI (cast grey iron) and SGI (ductile case iron dartons) . You can see how many more cycles ductile iron has over cast grey for a given stress. What im trying to get at is it might be worth it to spend a bit more money on a proper Darton install and pretty much never have to worry about anything again. The difference in cycles is exponential!!!! Would you rather do a CSS block that will last 1000 cycles (10^3) or a darton block that will last 10,000 cycles (10^4). You certainly wont be spending 10x the cost. Maybe 1.5x-2x. Even more interesting is Volvo's take on the slits between the cylinders... "The slots between the cylinders at the upper edge of the block have been specially machined to minimize the risk for ovality in the cylinders as a result of thermal expansion." I assume that with the CSS they also fill those slits. With them filled if you do the machining and assembly cold when things heat up the cylinder could try move around but because its so stiff due to the CSS the oem liner might end up giving and cracking. Also something I had a lot of trouble with... the Volvo's die cast aluminum blocks are far too weak for headstuds. Headstuds have been shown over and over again to crack blocks. Thermal expansion with a fastener that resides in its elastic range of deformation = massive increase in clamping load when the engine is heated up = cracked water jacket of the block. Stock bolts donโt have this issue because they are angle torqued into their plastic range of deformation where and increase in strain (stretch) equals a very small increase in stress. TTY bolts are torqued to that red region. Headstuds are torqued in the elastic zone. You can see an increase in strain (stretch) = a HUGE increase in stress...where as the TTY (red circle) a increase in strain barely increases the stress. This why TTY bolts can handle this thermal expansion without cracking the block. Hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vykis199009 Posted January 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2021 Well, if i ever will go for dartons, i`ll change for larger bore, higher cr and so on, thats why for now, i wanna try css, only block work is 4x cheaper, so meh, we will see how long it will last. Somehow at sweden, css works. About bolts, i`m using custom made 12.9 studs, so less stress on block than arp`s. Tbh, 1 or 2 more years and i wanna go for some rwd car with stronger, larger motor. But ty for tips Simply Volvo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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