lookforjoe Posted October 28, 2020 Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Worked on installing the aftermarket (VW-based) Van Der Veer Haldex Controller over the summer - forgot to bring it here, I can't access my old C30 thread. AWD conversion thread on C30Crew Controller is set using a phone app via BT He makes these plug 'n' play for VW applications. In my case I had him ship with 1 metre pigtails off the controller & I added the Volvo-specific male/female harness connectors. Volvo uses 1.5mm & 2.8mm YESC series (Yazaki) terminals in the Molex 12 pole DEM connector housings Add the factory grommet before the external male end connector Just needs the male connector now A bridge set of 2 wires (5,6 CANhigh CANlow) had to be added due to the way Volvo wires the haldex controller CANbus loop. The device only needs 4 wires (1,2 power&ground & 3,4 CANhigh CANlow) to operate add ABS harness through grommet before install install location under rear seat, right side unit is velcro'd in place, like the Volvo fuel module in same location on left side under seat reinstall protector plate reconnect & anchor harnesses under car reinstall splash guard Remove Volvo Haldex Gen2 Module & install VW-based Gen2 unit - solenoid & valve are Volvo-supplied Gen2. It's just different software that requires the replacement. If the Volvo Gen2 units could be re-flashed with the VW Gen2 software, it would make the conversion several hundred dollars cheaper. Once wired, Controller is then paired with phone app via BT Unfortunately for me, that's not the end of the story. The VW controller was wreaking havoc with the Volvo CAN network. disabling the CAN inputs doesn't prevent data transfer, & the car is rejecting the transplant Tach & coolant gauges also drop out as the system cyles between the two prevailing system errors I disconnected the CANhigh & CANlow inputs to the controller for now. Car can't be driven. Since this controller is also designed to function as a standalone on vehicles pre-dating CAN, basic function (% of engagement) should be available, I just won't have all the niceties until Jeroen can review some data logs & (presumably) write appropriate code to make the Volvo-side happy. I have a CANUSB convertor that he recommended to extract data via software he provided, so I can give him data logs to review. The initial problem turned out to be the way Volvo looped the CAN high/low on the DEM/output side of the circuit - the controller blocks the CAN broadcast off the input side. Once I removed the two CAN signal wires that loop from the DEM to the ADM and from there to the SWM, everything was fine (from that perspective). Overall wiring layout (except for 5,6 removed from connector 64/50 for now): The AOC doesnt seem to be working though. With his app I can change the % of engagement in increments from 100/0 (essentially off) to 50/50. At 50/50 there should be no front wheelspin when launching, with mine it makes no difference. If the data displayed in his app is accurate, the recorded system temp (198C) is way over the Volvo predetermined cut off point of 105C (taken from info in VIDA section 465/DEM design & function). Looking around, others have had problems with this low cut off & apparently there was a service fix. I’m not sure how relevant that data is though, since I’m using the VW Gen2 DEM now. I’m waiting for a response from him as to how to proceed. in the screenshot of the Settings window, it shows the Controller Temp @ 34C - but that may mean the head unit, not the AOC controller (DEM) so now I don't know what is going on. I'll wait until I hear back before considering about what to do next. Put in a new oil temp / pressure sensor as that was the most likely candidate. Along with a new Volvo seal kit. VW sells it for less, but no stock in the US Still front wheel burnouts, without trying very hard After that, I wired in an OBDII port for just the Haldex DEM, so it can be read. I also ran a new harness I made for the Leak Detection Pump, as the codes for that are recurring, and I figured the harness repair I made when I did the install was the most likely culprit. CAN high, CAN low, power & grounds TS 090 terminals & housings EVAP Pump harness into the 64/51 connector, pins 9-12. Yazaki terminals pump end terminals & connector from Mouser ran new harness behind heat shield over subframe, sheathed in DEI No more error codes. On the Haldex front, using VCDS ( a saga in of itself), I can extract data from the DEM error code confirms original temp/pressure sender was an issue what is apparent now is that the system thinks the eBrake is on, so no wonder it's not operational pump pressure & AOC temps are good More to figure out. Oct 2020: VanDerVeer finally figured out why his controller wasn't working with my unit - when running some tests using Volvo solenoid & sensor with the VW module, apparently there is a glitch in Gen2 control - the chosen mode has to be cycled off/on with the car running to activate the AWD. So, I have working AWD again, very happy. He will work on fixing the software glitch. With that, I started providing him with CAN data logs (through CAN Monitor Pro) to determine Volvo settings for throttle, brake, eBrake, rpm and speed signals. Once he is done, there will be a setting in the app that allows you to choose what auto manufacturer the CAN signals originate from, so that all the modes will be usable. Right now, I can only use the Lock mode & set the percentage of split Also added a Quaife posi to a spare rear -- Ring gear is now transferred & welded to the new rear LSD. $250 later it's done. Now I have to install the new bearings (32008X/Q) and check the backlash. He said it was a royal pita to essentially machine the old diff out of the ring gear, the welds were deep Note: 999-7160 special tool required to remove rear axles without damage to casing Installed the carrier bearings 32008X/Q x2 about an hour or so to get the mating surfaces free of anaerobic sealant remains preload/gear offset shim on right side, left side gets the backlash adjuster right side cup & preload/gear offset shim going in diff in, cover sealed with anaerobic sealant, torqued to 18ft/lb new axle seals 8653928 x2 preload set (5.25 turns), then used old seal to install new seals Had to drill & tap the remains of the rear CV, it was jammed in the pinion flange Next I can remove the flange, and replace the Haldex filter & rebuild the pump. Extracted the torque mount bushing. The Manual version is a different composition than the Auto. Not a fun job Used part of a three-jaw puller and a X1/9 rear hub bearing to pull it into the housing Also changed the two filter/vents fo rth Haldex & Diff 31256914 bush 30681138 x2 filter/vent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 System now fully functional with CAN inputs for brake, throttle position, steering angle, reverse lock out, rpm, speed. Only missing parking brake signal, haven't found that one yet. This means I can now leave it in any Lock mode setting & not have axle bind when low speed tight cornering or parking - feels really good! Thanks to VanDerVeer Engineering - he is the one who was willing to work with me to get the Volvo CAN data inputs working with his setup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apeacock Posted November 2, 2020 Report Share Posted November 2, 2020 Old seal to help with new seal is a solid idea! What an effort made here wow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tristan Scott Posted November 24, 2020 Report Share Posted November 24, 2020 I missed this, glad to VanDerVeer sniffed all the canbus data for you and got it working. What does aggressive cornering feel like with haldex fully locked? Does the front end push, neutral, or oversteer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2020 10 hours ago, Tristan Scott said: I missed this, glad to VanDerVeer sniffed all the canbus data for you and got it working. What does aggressive cornering feel like with haldex fully locked? Does the front end push, neutral, or oversteer? Hello Tristan I can't answer that yet - I haven't driven it aggressively enough in 50/50 mode. Most of the time I leave it in 70/30, which is max factory torque split. Mainly I've just been enjoying the improved traction off the line and on wet roadways - here the parkways tend to flood on one side of the lane, so the AWD makes all the difference there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tristan Scott Posted November 25, 2020 Report Share Posted November 25, 2020 20 hours ago, lookforjoe said: Hello Tristan I can't answer that yet - I haven't driven it aggressively enough in 50/50 mode. Most of the time I leave it in 70/30, which is max factory torque split. Mainly I've just been enjoying the improved traction off the line and on wet roadways - here the parkways tend to flood on one side of the lane, so the AWD makes all the difference there. Okay gotcha, I'm glad you got it working. That's awesome. Was there a large financial investment on your end to do this? Like a lot more than what those units cost off the shelf from his store? (if you don't mind me asking.) We had talked before on SS, I am trying to achieve the same thing on my R but was going to start tinkering with an arduino. Just wondering if it's worth my time or if maybe I should pursue seeing if VanDerVeer could help me out in the same way he helped you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 6 hours ago, Tristan Scott said: Okay gotcha, I'm glad you got it working. That's awesome. Was there a large financial investment on your end to do this? Like a lot more than what those units cost off the shelf from his store? (if you don't mind me asking.) We had talked before on SS, I am trying to achieve the same thing on my R but was going to start tinkering with an arduino. Just wondering if it's worth my time or if maybe I should pursue seeing if VanDerVeer could help me out in the same way he helped you. For me, yes. In addition, I've bought 2 VW DEMs - and CAN Analyzer equipment. When he's done, his controller will work with the stock Volvo P1 Gen2 controller - so no need to get the Gen3 controller many have used with AWD conversions. I've sent him my Haldex DEM to work with. Now he has all the CANbus data, it shouldn't take that long. So, the only outlay will be for his controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tristan Scott Posted November 28, 2020 Report Share Posted November 28, 2020 On 11/25/2020 at 9:20 PM, lookforjoe said: For me, yes. In addition, I've bought 2 VW DEMs - and CAN Analyzer equipment. When he's done, his controller will work with the stock Volvo P1 Gen2 controller - so no need to get the Gen3 controller many have used with AWD conversions. I've sent him my Haldex DEM to work with. Now he has all the CANbus data, it shouldn't take that long. So, the only outlay will be for his controller. Ahhh okay gotcha. What gen haldex are you using again? I forgot. I was doing some digging in VIDA and was realizing that gen 2 and 3 that came in the Rs REQUIRE a difference in rotational speed from the front and rear axles to generate hydraulic force to clamp the multiplate clutch, ie the hydraulic force is mechanically generated. Gen 4 haldex uses the feed pump to generate the hydraulic force and actuates the solenoid as a sort of hydraulic exhaust to regulate the pressure to the clutch pack. From doing some digging, it looks like gen 2, 3, and 4 haldexs were used in XC90s in the same rear diff housing which has led me to believe that you could physically swap a gen 4 haldex into a car that had a gen 2 or 3 and get better performance (goal is to eliminate understeer inducing front wheel slip before rear wheel slip condition whenever haldex engages.) Feed the pump with power, control the solenoid with a pwm signal and you've got control over the clutch pack. Could keep your cars current DEM in the network but not actually connected to a haldex obviously to keep the network happy. Just wanted to share that with you cuz I know you're one of only a small number of people messing with this kind of stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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