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XC90 R-Design and E30 Activities. Whaaaaaaat?


gilber33

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Lol, sucks about the seats but unfortunately pretty typical with getting any custom work done anymore.  Big fan of the motto if you want it done right then do it yourself - but there's only so much you can know/learn/invest in.  With that said, I think the black seats look miles better compared to the red seats when installed.

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On 7/8/2021 at 1:23 PM, gmsgltr said:

Man... the red was purdy but what you made of that interior is also beautiful 

I hope you get it all sorted out

Thank you. I got a temporary refund issued by the bank. And I’ve given them pictures and emails. Waiting on someone to do a third party letter giving their opinion of the work done. 

18 hours ago, JoshV70 said:

Lol, sucks about the seats but unfortunately pretty typical with getting any custom work done anymore.  Big fan of the motto if you want it done right then do it yourself - but there's only so much you can know/learn/invest in.  With that said, I think the black seats look miles better compared to the red seats when installed.

I agree. I went with red in the first place because the door panels were already that color, but in the end, I don’t miss the red. 

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woot! you just drill down to determine concrete slab thickness and you already had enough? if i had another foot ceiling height in my garage i would have bought one of those instead of a quick jack for sure

the garage/car looks great!

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29 minutes ago, gmsgltr said:

woot! you just drill down to determine concrete slab thickness and you already had enough? if i had another foot ceiling height in my garage i would have bought one of those instead of a quick jack for sure

the garage/car looks great!

It was hard to tell exactly what my slab thickness was. I didn't go through into loose stone, I know that much. But those at MaxJax have said that if you use the epoxy anchors and you drill through your slab, to stuff something at the bottom of the hole to hold the epoxy as it cures. My drill holes were all solid at the bottom. Used this epoxy:

image.png.1ba93afd3db68fdb87cd7c13651518df.png

It has a pretty high load rating, especially considering each post has 5 anchors:

image.png.08c6f21b4325e8072ca8203a2c34d490.png

And tested it out last night. I have quite a bit more room to go up and it's already so much higher than it would be if it was on jack stands.

5F74F785-7002-4777-9A3A-8DB9D5897571.thumb.jpeg.8d0e59eafffda23018ab4ef9b5ed84c8.jpeg

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That's incredibly cool, nice score Gabe!  And in case I haven't said it before, your garage looks like a perfect setup - plenty of space to work, storage to keep your tools organized, and a place to hang out too.

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10 hours ago, andyb5 said:

That's incredibly cool, nice score Gabe!  And in case I haven't said it before, your garage looks like a perfect setup - plenty of space to work, storage to keep your tools organized, and a place to hang out too.

Thank you! That was always the vision. A place to do what I enjoy and space for my girls to hang out in there too. They love watching their shows in there. 
 

Working on this is giving me flashbacks from my first 850. The suspension was so crusty and the Konis were almost unrecognizable. So far I’ve ran into the PO cross threading the caliper sliders into the bracket, snapping off the end of the shock mount stud, and breaking loose one of the welded nuts on the driver side shock mount. So much PB Blaster and so much propane. 
 

The plan is to weld a portion of a bolt onto the end of the shock mount since all of the structural part is still there and all the nut does is keep it in place. Going to try and chase the threads in the bracket and use a die to clean up the threads on the sliders. And a nut and bolt for the shock mount. 
 

9810E0F9-3F85-4FAA-8F13-250B7C3F1796.thumb.jpeg.5b9c624a46b4f7c2095873dff1c2fbe8.jpeg
 

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Sweet

How high are your ceilings in there? Mine are a little under 8'. The quick jack is meh. It works, its definitely better and higher than stands but not as easy as what youve got there! With the bigger blocks on it the car is up 24" I'd say. If I had more room I'd have the maxjax for sure. I thought about it too... I only have a slim concrete slab but wouldnt be too bad to remove out a section, put a sono tube down of some thick concrete and bolt to that... 

 

you keeping koni's and lowering springs on this R? 

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4 hours ago, gmsgltr said:

Sweet

How high are your ceilings in there? Mine are a little under 8'. The quick jack is meh. It works, its definitely better and higher than stands but not as easy as what youve got there! With the bigger blocks on it the car is up 24" I'd say. If I had more room I'd have the maxjax for sure. I thought about it too... I only have a slim concrete slab but wouldnt be too bad to remove out a section, put a sono tube down of some thick concrete and bolt to that... 

 

you keeping koni's and lowering springs on this R? 

They’re just a smidge over 8’. It’s 8’ ceilings and they’re on a curb around the perimeter. 

Is the quick jack one that you can leave in place and drive over it so your not moving it all the time? 

And yes. I put the Koni Strt or whatever on with IPD springs. I had that setup on my S70 T5M a while ago and thought it was okay. It was the most affordable option, too.

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Part of a bolt welded on to the mount and cleaned up. Test fitting the shock. And then all done. Needed a couple washers to clear the weld. But, beats what I’ve read on most forums that says the only fox is to replace the entire delta link. 

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57725B26-304E-4CB2-AED5-526017143699.jpeg

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I don’t know if this is an R specific thing, but the vehicle spec plate on the frame by the battery doesn’t match up with the information I can find on the internet for what type of inner tie rods I need? That code bank for this car doesn’t have the 4 or 5 where it says it should be. 
 

I assume it’s the TRW style, but I would like to confirm. 
 

12C8FB43-314B-4883-BA4B-32F27F4B5E6C.jpeg

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