NJGreenBudd Posted February 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2022 Thanks Mojojo, Chomper approves the lines. Also bought new green injectors, turbo coolant line rubber sections, cabin air filter and the materials for new intake and turbo inlet duct with big filter, 3.25ID MAF and 3" pipe for K24. Hoping to get the new gear installed next weekend, will see as busy with work yada yada..also still need to get a base tune for the diy setup for the MAF and injectors,easy enough, need to install the Spartan WBO2 and finalize wiring for datalogging. Thinking it should run ok for temporary use on my ARD Blue Tune for 18T if I retain the whites, would be wary of boost overshoot, maybe reset the K24 WG preload a lot lower to be safe. It's a bit of a gamble, I just need to get on top of the ECU stuff again, steep learning curve but we will get there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJGreenBudd Posted February 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2022 Built a better flashing station using the stock ECU base connector plates and stock OBD2 port, wired up in a cigar box. Obd port fits right in the tcu slot, easy peasy. Testing by pooch I ran the car today for the first time in years on another ECU other than the ARD Blue Tune I've been using. I was able to run the rev5 607 map and it runs fine at idle, cruise and part throttle but mid throttle it starts to knock as you can tell from the flashing CEL which was expected given the variance between a RN LPT motor with 18T and the stock T5 motor with 16T, obviously there is a mismatch in timing and probably some other variables. I need to either import some base lot maps or tweak the existing ones....need to get my WBO2 installed and get logging.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck W Posted February 14, 2022 Report Share Posted February 14, 2022 Flashing set-up looks good. I need to get mine into a more robust mounting. Just one of those projects that I can never get around to doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojojo Posted February 14, 2022 Report Share Posted February 14, 2022 Glad you got the stuff... Love the dog. I lost my Boxer last year to cancer. Any reason why not to just flash in the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJGreenBudd Posted February 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2022 Thanks guys.I just prefer this method, no reason really seemed better and different than the in car flashing Ive done before with various softloaders, pocketlogger, RTek7, etc....I "feel" like this gives me more control and time. I can also load multiple ECUs and play around like this easier. This last part was done during Sunday snow storm but usually I do this stuff at like 5am or 9pm after work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck W Posted February 15, 2022 Report Share Posted February 15, 2022 Yeah, I was looking into an in-car flashing set-up (Even have the voltage amplifiers to install), but flashing on the bench is easy enough. With the COP set-up, I'd still have to get under the hood to disconnect the power to the coils when flashing in-car, so it's not saving too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJGreenBudd Posted March 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2022 Did some work with parts Ive has for years now. Mocked up the biggest turbo I currently have and got it clocked. Fitting up a divorced external wastegate and downpipe for the PTE5952 turbo for later down the road. Not sure this is any better than other choices but it allows me to run the turbo I wanted on the S60R exhaust manifold (or perhaps Japanifold? Still need to shave the lip on whichever one) while still using an external wastegate, to maximize the pressure drop across the wastegate I'm leaning towards an open dump or possibly WG cutout, rather than plumbing back into the 3" DP. I wanted to try this type of setup, mostly cause I thought it looked cool and sounds cool but also because it's rather simple idea and not too pricey. I rushed a bit and may have to redo a bit, I should have used a small straight 2.5" spacer section before the angle cut into the bellmouth. It's a bit tight for the lowest bolt, I'll have to get a shorter bolt or perhaps use studs. Also, right now this is 38mm Tial unit, need to swap to 44mm for sure. Still need to port the WG passage on the turbine housing, just bought sets of burrs to do the job. Took some comparisons side by side with K24, doesn't look like clearance should be an issue despite the huge size difference. I'm using what I have, it's a mix of mild and stainless, using flux core for now cause that's what I got, I did try some new blue demon stainless steel flux core wire but it wasn't happy so I went back to Lincoln regular flux core mild wire, oh well it works. Again, better choices for materials and processes but making do with what's here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.