97' V70R RN engine swap

[jimbobbird]

 

Haven't posted in a long time... here goes...

I have a 1998 V70R which I've fitted a S60R 2.5 engine into. Engine came out of my S60R with 80k and ran good. Have kept the M56 box. Fitted most of the V70R components over (22T turbo, VXR injectors, 3" intake with new PCV system, 3" downpipe (new cat or exhaust fitted atm), Do88 intercooler, V70R throttle body, standard TCV. M4.4 ECU, MAF is 3.5" from a BMW, most of the pipework has been upgraded. All vac lines are silicone, new clutch, flywheel etc).

Engine has been converted to Coil over plug using S60R bits and a custom map/ecu wiring.
Have completed a VVT delete on both cams. Belts replaced and timing set 2.3' exh anticlockwise and the inlet 6.2' clockwise.
O2 is being measured by a AEM AFR wideband.

FPR is currently a 3bar unit, was originally 3.4bar to try different things. I'm seeing 3bar at the rail with no massive drop over time.

New battery and have confirmed injectors, ICV, CAM, Crank, MAF are all working fine.

The car is a pig to start. Running real rich and only real way of starting is to keep blipping the throttle to WOT. Vacuum is only -9psi negative at idle. Glove test inflates massively when idling.

Trying to tune the car I'm jumping between 12AFR Rich and 20 AFR Idle. The radiator fan is making the car run real rich and then lean, often stalling the car.

Car battery is brand new with healthy voltage / alternator working. at @~14.1volts

RPM is around 700-800rpm.

My cold compression tests are

Cylinder 1 2 3 4 5
Cold 102 99 82 100 109
with oil 175 208 185 200 200 (I might of been a bit keen with oil in some of the cylinders!)

I haven't tried a compression check hot yet. It's hard enough to start although once running and warm it does fine and tries to hunt for ~14AFR. Short term fuel is jumping -/+ 25.00. Will easily restart warm.

Checking the new plugs (volvo genuine, correct long size) they're wet. Spark to all is strong and injectors are pulsing good with good flow with cup test.

The only thing left in my mind is the timing is out. I can't believe its rings as the engine ran good power and had no issues before it was moved into car. I've cross checked all the normal bits above with a friend's car that is running fine and the same setup (although he has a K turbo). Installing vice versa and my parts run fine on his inc coils, rail, injectors, maf, etc.

I've tried running my friends ECU and loaded his turbotuner map - still won't run good.

We're not even out of the garage yet - so no on-road driving! Anything else I'm missing or not thinking about? So hacked with it now!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Chuck W]

LINK

[lowkeyturbo]

Its the intake VVT cam. When doing the RN swap people usually only swap the ones with the exhaust VVT. The exhaust VVT defaults to full advanced which is good for idle anyways.

 

I have a dual VVT engine in my car (2004 dual vvt head) but I am running the Volsquirt ECU with full dual VVT control. The Intake cam makes a huge difference at idle.

The injector timing should be based on the intake VVT position as well.

 

When the coolant is below 40c i have the VVT off and the car idles with low vaccum (around -12 inhg) and when it turns on and hits the target VVT angles (30 degree intake and 25 degree exhaust) it idles at -19.5 inhg when warm ( i am 550m above sea level so its about right).

 

My guess is it has to do with the VVT angles.