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Qbm Control Arm Bushings


kir

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Couple quick q's that are sorta related here for Slater.

1. Are your sway bar bushings going to be poly or delrin? WIll they look similar to this?:

gresway.jpg

or will they be like the scantech ones?:

1273184.gif

a. Will yours have a slit on the bushing for easy installation? I suppose it would always be possible to just make a slit yourself in that red poly one in the picture.

2. I am thinking of ordering a universal poly sway bushing kit and fitting it to my stock R bar after grinding/burning off the old bushing. Do you have a time table yet for the sway bushings or a price idea? I can get both bushings and the D-Brackets as well for around $15 from a couple different bushing companies.

3. I know that this fitting of poly bushings on the stock bar has been talked about quite a bit, but do you see any problems with how I am going to do what I outlined in my 2nd question? (i.e. the side to side play, etc.)

4. Is it possible (have you or anyone done this) to get that bushing and bracket off without removing the bar from the car and just do this while under the car?

They will look similar to the first one you posted. Except the brackets will fit the subframe (the universal brackets do not even though they are slotted). I have no timetable at this point. It's a project that will be released in '06, but there are other projects that are a higher priority than the sway bar kit.

Yes you are right - you will have to address the side to side movement of the bar using poly bushings. The IPD bars have a welded steel wall to prevent side to side movement, but I will be manufacturing a bolt on stop that will be included in the kit.

As far as is it posible to do everything on the car, I am fairly sure it is depending on what tools you have at your disposal. However, a few people on this board have already found out that you can remove the stock front swaybar without touching the subframe, so theoretically it would be best to slide out the stock bar, do all the work out of the car, slide the original bar back in with the new bushings, and bolt it back up. All without removing the subframe or anything else.

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Anytime... I would go look at mine to see if they are 2 bolt... but there is snow on the ground and the car is still lowered and Im too lazy at the moment to do anything about it, so screw it hahaha. But I am waiting for slaters arms... before my ball joints blow up :(

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Anytime... I would go look at mine to see if they are 2 bolt... but there is snow on the ground and the car is still lowered and Im too lazy at the moment to do anything about it, so screw it hahaha. But I am waiting for slaters arms... before my ball joints blow up :(

I took that pic just lying down on the driveway and sliding the camera underneath, didn't raise the car up or anything... that's with bilsteins and vogtlands, so I'm sure you could do it :P

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As always nice work Slater :D !

Hey just a quick thought, since you are selling complete kits arms and bushings, have you thought a of possibly making a uniball setup for the balljoint on the arms?

I was looking at mine the other day thinking about that, I think that would make the front end on these cars sooooo much better!!

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As always nice work Slater :D !

Hey just a quick thought, since you are selling complete kits arms and bushings, have you thought a of possibly making a uniball setup for the balljoint on the arms?

I was looking at mine the other day thinking about that, I think that would make the front end on these cars sooooo much better!!

Not without making the arms from scratch. And the cost would go up obviously. Since the weak link with these cars is the control arm bushings, and the ball joint itself has plenty of range of movement even on lowered cars, you aren't going to gain that much switching to a fixed uniball. A rod end is another story. But someone is already working on an adjustable tubular control arm. So I am not out to compete with that directly. That's a true race part for someone who really knows what they are doing and needs the adjustability. 95% of you just need something better than stock. And the stock control arms with Delrin control arm bushings gives just that. In fact, it is WAY better than stock. I have said many times it's night and day and it is. In fact you would notice the change between Delrin and stock control arm bushings right away. But you would be very hard pressed to tell the difference between the stock ball joint and a uniball. I try and come up with products that give max bang for the buck. Sure, you can always come up with the "ultimate" product, but usually at the expense of price, or service life, or whatever.

Slater, I just want to double check here... is this a 2-bolt style?

*Sorry for the poor pics, I didn't want to raise the car up*

Yes that is 2 bolt.

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Guest Hank Scorpio

That's cool, I was just thinking out loud :)

Maybe there will be demand in the future for full tubular arms with your bushings and a uniball setup :rolleyes:

maybe... maybe in spring 2006 ;)

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This has already been answered in this thread.

Nope. Untrue.

I read the thread originally before posting, and now you just made me read it all again. My questions have not been answered here. I found nothing about diagnosing failed bushings, nor is there anything about how many miles people drive on the stock ones before failure.

After I asked my last question, someone did comment that you normally wouldn't replace the bushings. That's interesting.

Well, in any case, since your product will come with a ball joint and bushings, it will at least help me eliminate a couple of potential suspension problem areas. Eventually I'll wind up with the entire front end being replaced in my effort to get the suspension back to feeling tight. I guess all I can do is keep throwing money at the car and hope I'll stumble upon the problem.

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