Figawi Posted May 17, 2006 Report Share Posted May 17, 2006 i pulled the air pump, relay, and sas valve out of a 97 850glt today (built in 5/96 so it could be a 96). there was no water in the hoses, pump or valve when i removed them and the car had passed inspection a few months prior so i am hoping i pulled a good one. i will attempt to install it in my car shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymondjiii Posted May 18, 2006 Report Share Posted May 18, 2006 Bad News. You were right Yesturday morning I had NO CODES come up in the OBDII scan. Car drives wonderfully. Last night, the CEL comes on!!! Code P0410 is back The car still drives wonderfully so I am going to rule out the O2 sensor for now and replace the Air Pump.I think the SAS valve going bad is less likely than the pump going bad.by the way: I picked up a Volvo OEM air pump for less than what FCP Groton wanted at Topping Volvo via the Internet.Don't forget to drill the two small drain holes in the bottom of your new air pump. I was a skeptic at first but now I think it's the only way to go.My third air pump has so far lasted longer than the other two combined. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfeener Posted May 18, 2006 Report Share Posted May 18, 2006 Just test it before you install it and you can remove all the mystery. Put some jumper wires on the battery and apply 12V to the air pump motor. It should spin up and pump air. The SAS valve is easier to test if you remove it from the car. Grab a vacuum line from the throttle body and plug it into the SAS valve; you should see the mandrel open up and you'll be able to blow through the SAS valve. SAS valve failure is very common. Mine had a bad motor; filled with water, right to the top and the SAS valve was stuck closed. If you took it to the dealer they would automaticaly replace both the pump and the SAS valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figawi Posted May 18, 2006 Report Share Posted May 18, 2006 I think the SAS valve going bad is less likely than the pump going bad.by the way: I picked up a Volvo OEM air pump for less than what FCP Groton wanted at Topping Volvo via the Internet.Don't forget to drill the two small drain holes in the bottom of your new air pump. I was a skeptic at first but now I think it's the only way to go.My third air pump has so far lasted longer than the other two combined.do i just drill into the bottom of the plastic case?ust test it before you install it and you can remove all the mystery. Put some jumper wires on the battery and apply 12V to the air pump motor. It should spin up and pump air. The SAS valve is easier to test if you remove it from the car. Grab a vacuum line from the throttle body and plug it into the SAS valve; you should see the mandrel open up and you'll be able to blow through the SAS valve. SAS valve failure is very common. Mine had a bad motor; filled with water, right to the top and the SAS valve was stuck closed. If you took it to the dealer they would automaticaly replace both the pump and the SAS valve.what connectors ont the relay do i connect the jumper wires to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymondjiii Posted May 18, 2006 Report Share Posted May 18, 2006 do i just drill into the bottom of the plastic case?what connectors ont the relay do i connect the jumper wires to?Check how the air pump is mounted when you go to put your new one in. At the bottom of the pump you will drill two small holes (lowest part of the pump.) One on the right and one on the left. Just go slow with the drill and of course you use a very small bit. I used a very slow speed on the drill and I also practiced on the shot air pump first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Kaczmarek Posted May 18, 2006 Report Share Posted May 18, 2006 Pfeener, This PO410 Code appears to be something you are very knowlegible about. I have the same code on my 1998 S70 GLT. So, I have a couple of questions for you.If you test the valve and the pump and they both work, should I then assume it's a bad 02 sensor? And if that logic is correct, which 02 sensor? The upstream one I changed 1 year ago. The downstream O2 sensor is old in my car. Maybe I should change that out first?I think I hear that pump whirring from time to time in my car. I just never knew what it was. Is changing that pump a difficult task? You say it's llocated under the battery?Thanks for your help.Chris in Miami1998 Volvo S70 GLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfeener Posted May 18, 2006 Report Share Posted May 18, 2006 To Emerysmith:I would recommend removing the end cover on the pump before drilling the drain hole(s). You can drill out the aluminum rivets very easily and remove the cover. This gives you visual access to the impellor area and you can't screw up. It pretty tight in there and drilling in the wrong place will get you into trouble. After you're done just replace the rivits with some stainless nuts and bolts.I'm not familiar with the relay setup on the pre 98 models. On my S70 the relay is up top with the rest of the relays in the kidney shapped compartment. If the relay itself is the same; when you remove the relay you will see 4 connections. The two small ones are for the relay coil and the two large spade connectors are for the air pump. With the key off you can jump the two large connectors and the pump will/should run. Hold your hand over the output hose and make sure it's pumping good air volume.To Chris:I would not assume it's the O2 sensor. First check out the air pump. Since you have a 98 the air pump relay is up in the engine compartment. Remove the air pump relay and jump the two large spade connectors. The pump should run and blow air. (use a large guage wire as it draws a lot of amps) You can swap the main relay with the air pump relay (they are located right next to each other). If the air pump relay was bad the car won't start. If the pump runs and pumps air that piece of the puzzle is good. Next let's attack the SAS valve. You stated you've tested the SAS valve itself so we'll assume that's good. Let's take a look at the vacuum control for the SAS valve. Vacuum for the SAS valve comes off of the vacuum "tree" on the throttle body. It runs over to a vacuum solenoid under the radiator shroud. With the car running you should have about 20 inches of vacuum going into the vacuum solenoid. Remove the electrical connection going into the vacuum solenoid and apply 12V across the vacuum solenoid (watch the polarity). The solenoid should operate and apply the vacuum to the SAS valve. If all that works when you test it, I would next look at the wiring to the ECM. The ECM is what controls the air pump relay and the vacuum solenoid by applying a ground to each device. When you're looking at the vacuum line feeding the solenoid also check out the little round one way valve. It can get clogged and keep the vacuum from reaching the vacuum solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Kaczmarek Posted May 19, 2006 Report Share Posted May 19, 2006 Pfeener, Thanks for the very detailed trouble shooting advice. Sounds like you are a master mechanic. I will try to tackle this over the weekend. Limited time because the wife and I just had a baby. The car runs fine. It's just that check engine light comes back as you outlined in an earlier response. I can reset it;however, if it's broke when it cycles the error code comes back.I'll let you know how I make out.Thanks again for sharing the knowledge.Chris in Miami Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfeener Posted May 19, 2006 Report Share Posted May 19, 2006 Good luck over the weekend. If you have questions or get stuck; send me an email through this forum and I'll be glad to help you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figawi Posted May 21, 2006 Report Share Posted May 21, 2006 well i tried to do the air pump swap saturday. the air pump i bought turned out to be broken and my original air pump had water in where the wire connector runs into the plastic casing. my relay connections were also filled with water so now i ordered a VW pump off of eBay. It is used but the seller assures me that it works. It has the same Part # as the one from Matthews Volvo Site. I hope this will work. i still need to test my SAS valve. im a bit confused as to how to go about this. I've read your instructions but they didn't click with me. My SAS valve has a purple vacum line going to it from the top of the radioator area and then another bigger hose going to the air pump. What do i connect to what to make sure it works? Sorry for all of the questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew Posted May 21, 2006 Report Share Posted May 21, 2006 well i tried to do the air pump swap saturday. the air pump i bought turned out to be broken and my original air pump had water in where the wire connector runs into the plastic casing. my relay connections were also filled with water so now i ordered a VW pump off of eBay. It is used but the seller assures me that it works. It has the same Part # as the one from Matthews Volvo Site. I hope this will work. i still need to test my SAS valve. im a bit confused as to how to go about this. I've read your instructions but they didn't click with me. My SAS valve has a purple vacum line going to it from the top of the radioator area and then another bigger hose going to the air pump. What do i connect to what to make sure it works? Sorry for all of the questions.With the valve removed from the car. Apply vaccuum to where the purple hose connects. This opens the valve. You should be able to blow through it. With vaccuum removed the valve is closed.When mine failed I was able to work the valve and spray carb cleaner through it, working vaccuum on and off, spraying cleaner, etc. When I got the "sticky valve" working smooth I worked some spray lube through it a few times. I haven't had any problems with the valve since. (about 2 years). The same condensation that fills the pump also corodes the inside of the valve and makes it stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfeener Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 With the SAS valve removed from the car you can also visualy see the madrel move in the SAS valve. If your pump was filled with water I would replace the SAS valve anyway. The pumps themselves are very reliable. The VW ones are identical and they run very well. It's the design of the Volvo SAS valve that fails and fills up the air pump with water from the exhaust gases. If you're relay was filled with water it will need to be replaced as well.Bottom line: I would replace the SAS valve and the relay. Use a modified VW pump and drill some 1/8 inch drain hole while you have the cover off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seamus Posted May 22, 2006 Report Share Posted May 22, 2006 With the SAS valve removed from the car you can also visualy see the madrel move in the SAS valve. If your pump was filled with water I would replace the SAS valve anyway. The pumps themselves are very reliable. The VW ones are identical and they run very well. It's the design of the Volvo SAS valve that fails and fills up the air pump with water from the exhaust gases. If you're relay was filled with water it will need to be replaced as well.Bottom line: I would replace the SAS valve and the relay. Use a modified VW pump and drill some 1/8 inch drain hole while you have the cover off.Hey Seamus here! “pfeener” had a good handle on this problem but one of his statements was overlooked. It is the SAS valve that fails and allows condensation from the exhaust to form in the hose and flow down to the pump and eventually to the relay in the 850. Volvo came up with a new SAS valve to help this problem. I don’t have the #s but if you remove the valve and find a cotter pin in the exh side of the valve you have the old one. Bite the bullet and buy a new one and make sure the new one has a disk about the size of a dime inside not a cotter pin…. Hope this helpsSeamus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figawi Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 ok so now i have two working air pumps. i put one up for sale if someone needs it: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=50023 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figawi Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 ok where should i drill the holes in my air pump:**I noticed on two bad pumps that there was a ton of water under this cap ^^^ should i drill holes on this cap as well? this is where all the wiring goes. (please excuse the dirty pump ^^^ - i still need to clean it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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