Seamus Posted May 23, 2006 Report Share Posted May 23, 2006 I drill two. One on eather side of the blower rotor at the lowest point of the motor. Take your old one apart to get the idea.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfeener Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 Seamus is right on. Drill out the aluminum rivets in your old pump and remove the end cover so you can see what you're doing. There's just a vaned wheel in there that sucks in air on one end and blows it out the other end. You want to drill a couple of 1/8 inch holes in the very bottom of the pump into the chamber where the vane is spinning. That's the chamber that gets the water first. It comes down the tube from the SAS valve. No need to drill holes in the end cap with the wires. If you get water up that far your pump was dead a long time ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figawi Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 i drilled one hole to start. when its all hooked up and the pump is running i can hear the air being pumped out of it on the ground. is too much air being pumped out the hole and will it effect my emisssions?now that everything is hooked up the CEL shut off on its own. i assume its all working correctly. Seamus is right on. Drill out the aluminum rivets in your old pump and remove the end cover so you can see what you're doing. There's just a vaned wheel in there that sucks in air on one end and blows it out the other end. You want to drill a couple of 1/8 inch holes in the very bottom of the pump into the chamber where the vane is spinning. That's the chamber that gets the water first. It comes down the tube from the SAS valve. No need to drill holes in the end cap with the wires. If you get water up that far your pump was dead a long time ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figawi Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 i drilled one hole to start. when its all hooked up and the pump is running i can hear the air being pumped out of it on the ground. is too much air being pumped out the hole and will it effect my emisssions?now that everything is hooked up the CEL shut off on its own. i assume its all working correctly. the stupid CEL came on again!!! same code as before. it must be the SAS valve. i thought it was good but i guess its a bad one. i can still hear the air pump coming on so im ruling that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seamus Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 Hey Seamus here! “pfeener” had a good handle on this problem but one of his statements was overlooked. It is the SAS valve that fails and allows condensation from the exhaust to form in the hose and flow down to the pump and eventually to the relay in the 850. Volvo came up with a new SAS valve to help this problem. I don’t have the #s but if you remove the valve and find a cotter pin in the exh side of the valve you have the old one. Bite the bullet and buy a new one and make sure the new one has a disk about the size of a dime inside not a cotter pin…. Hope this helpsSeamusDid you read this?? ^^^^^^ The valve is the CAUSE of the Water problem!! Replace it!!! Make sure the purple vac line is OK as well.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figawi Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 Did you read this?? ^^^^^^ The valve is the CAUSE of the Water problem!! Replace it!!! Make sure the purple vac line is OK as well.. I did see that. i was just hoping i wouldn't have to replace it since im only trying to get it to pass inspection so i can sell it. i thought mine was still good but it doesn't appear that way. i have a new one to put in now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfeener Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 Now that you've got at least half of the system working you can perform a few more checks if you want to positively isolate it to the SAS valve. Remove the hose from the air pump and the purple vacuum line going into the SAS valve. Start the car cold, when the air pump runs you should feel air pumping out the hose from the air pump. (If you only drilled a single 1/8 inch hole you won't lose too much air. If you drilled a 1/2 inch hole you may have an issue.) When the pump turns on the ECM will also apply a ground to the vacuum solenoid and with a vacuum guage attached to the purple hose you should see around 20 inches of vacuum. (you can borrow a vacuum guage from autozone for free) If you have good vacuum at the purple hose and good air flow out of the air pump hose, the SAS valve is definetly your problem. (it's 90% probable that it's your root problem anyway) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figawi Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 i'm biting the bullet and just going to swap out everything. It will put my mind at ease when I sell it to the next buyer. Thanks for all your help guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XC Owner Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 good thread. should be pinned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figawi Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the underlørd Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 Hey Seamus here! "pfeener" had a good handle on this problem but one of his statements was overlooked. It is the SAS valve that fails and allows condensation from the exhaust to form in the hose and flow down to the pump and eventually to the relay in the 850. Volvo came up with a new SAS valve to help this problem. I don't have the #s but if you remove the valve and find a cotter pin in the exh side of the valve you have the old one. Bite the bullet and buy a new one and make sure the new one has a disk about the size of a dime inside not a cotter pin…. Hope this helpsSeamusSeamus, what about installing a one way check valve in the piping from the DP to the SAS valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seamus Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 "down pipe"??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the underlørd Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 "down pipe"???duhr..the pipe that goes from the hot side of the turbo to the cat...earth to seamus.. come in seamus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seamus Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 Earth… Seamus hear! I read you load a clear now .. OK that thought entered my mind but I guess it was to ridicules to consider…. Why don’t you just change the valve to the newer type and drill the holes in the pump. I almost never see the “new” type valve fail and the install will be much cleaner. When I had my ECU flashed I talked to TME about eliminating the airpump system so I can remove it but they would not go for it. :angry: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the underlørd Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 Earth… Seamus hear! I read you load a clear now .. OK that thought entered my mind but I guess it was to ridicules to consider…. Why don't you just change the valve to the newer type and drill the holes in the pump. I almost never see the "new" type valve fail and the install will be much cleaner. When I had my ECU flashed I talked to TME about eliminating the airpump system so I can remove it but they would not go for it. ya, i talked to marco about that too.. i guess if just simply cutting the pipe and installing a valve.. (i work in valve sales, so bear with me) if that would be the easier, (read: cheaper) option.my pump throws the code, and i really have no intention of wasing money on it, since doesn't do shite anyway..Just trying to "think outside the box" on this one.your helps and expertise is greatly appreciated my friend.- kevin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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