1998 V70 Preventative Care At 80k Old, 8 In Dog Years?

[Mojav]

(please move to the correct topic... thanks!)

Adopted a 1998 V70 GLT White, with Oak interior (3x90) and leather to replace my 1991 940 SE Turbo wagon that was totaled in a minor fender bender - this last April 2006. My 940 was a hot speedy turbo, now being rebuilt as a frankenvolvo ('It's A L I V E ...') by its new owner a mechanic saavy college kid... Sure do like my V70, its got 80k on it and runs pretty good. Doesn't turn as tight as my 940 used to, but its liveable. SUVs suck and I've been a wagon fan for life - wish I even had another V70...

Did a few improvements with more to come:

1) put on a factory euro roof rail - readying it for all my Yak parts, slick new bilsteins all around and changed shock mounts, tires P205? this next winter or spring (no need for snow, just All Weather - if i had my druthers I still like my old mud & snows on my SUV..., cargo net for the dog and kid, oem cargo tray, new oem rubber mats (sloppy family), rehabbing

the leather seats almost everyother day (love that Lexol and 303) and the rubber door seals, engine

rubbers and engine sill rubber near the fuse box... put in new window tint (all

windows -40%. lighter than my 940 but no hearse look - my kid now wants to drive the non-ghetto car) and may replace the drivers seat with one that has a better skin (my leather resurrection can't save the drivers seat... losing battle). All other seats are almost flawless though a little 'dry' , like Calpurnia? . Tailgate needs new brackets... and maybe latch adjustment. I have a rear wing, but still scrounging for connection parts, other wise painted and ready to go... changed out the stock horn for a Hella compact trumpet, but may change to an air .... Changed the cap and rotor, new spark cables, tune up and coil (old one was 'burned'? gray from overheating?).

2) all records maintained on it (was a clean company car) with 79k on it. Regular

service and the TB was changed at 70k. The car had been 'around the block', though kindly maintained. All elec. ABS, fine. everything works.

Planning my next major? maintenance maybe at 85-90k, just to be proacative..

1. serpentine belt? current one seems ok for now...

2. PCV valve and hose probably could be changed. cleaning the flame trap.

3. not sure about switching to synthetic oil or to Mobil-1 ATF?

4. one motor mount is soft, the other ok. but may change sooner than later.

5. AC/ could be colder but works ? anything preventative might be a good idea,

same with the heater core... bad one on my 940 that gushed gallons on my carpet.

Any suggestions on little known items that might need attention ? Ties, ball

joints etc seem ok, no slop - same for the sway bar links. Anything I need to

be proactive with ? outside the usual Volvo maintenance schedules.

'93 Ford Explorer (wife's), '91 Volvo 940 Turbo SE(gone but not forgotten), Chevy S10

Blazer (best offroad, but ready for the family crypt), '80 Toyota 4x4 (RIP), '78 Scout II (RIP), '98 Volvo GLT V70 - creme de la creme....

Mojav

[robert213]

Replace ATF

Replace Brake Pads

Replace Serpentine Belt

Replace Timing Belt

Suspension Components at... http://www.quickbrickmotorsports.com/products.html

Genuine Volvo Service - 850 series 1995-1997

Every 10,000 miles:

Oil Filter & Engine Oil: Replace

Battery Test: Check Electrolyte Level and Clamps

Brake Pads: Check Wear

-- In my experience, OEM Brake Pads must be replaced every 25K miles

Automatic Transmission: Check Shift Control; Check Fluid Level

-- In my experience, ATF must be changed every two years

-- Note 1998 Model Years and older use DEXRON-III

-- Note 1999 Model Years and newer use Mobil/Volvo JWS 3309.

---- It is not synthetic. It is expensive at $18/quart.

Fluid Levels: Check/Adjust (Coolant, brake fluid, power steering and washer)

-- Note Our power steering system uses DEXRON-III, not generic PS fluid

Diagnostic Codes: Check, Reset

Tires: Check for damage and wear (Rotate at customer's request)

Lubricate: Hood Hinges, Door Hinges, Door Striker Plates,

Clean: Power Antenna

Reset: Service Light

Every 20,000 miles:

Brake Hoses: Check

Fuel Lines: Check

Steering, Front & Rear Suspension: Check

Drive Shaft Joints: Check for wear/play

Lubricate Belt Tensioner Pivot Bearing

-- I would guess this means both Serpentine and Timing

Every 30,000 miles:

Air Filter Cartridge: Replace

Spark Plugs: Replace

Brake Fluid: Replace at interval or every two years

Every 60,000 miles:

Drive (Serpentine) Belts: Replace

PCV: Replace Flame Guard, Clean Nipple and Hoses

Every 70,000 miles:

Timing Belt: Replace

Every 100,000 miles:

EGR System: Check and Clean

Fuel Filter: Replace

------------------------------------------------------------

Here is a list of items that have been omitted...

1) ATF: Replace

2) Coolant: Replace

3) Thermostat/Engine Coolant Temp (ECT): Replace

4) Water Pump: Replace

5) O2 Sensor: Replace

6) Ignitor Module: Replace

7) Struts/Spring Seats: Replace

See the remainder of the items in "Stage 0" FAQ post

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=7281

[Mojav]

Robert213, thanks for the info ... much appreciated!!

Mojav

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=7281

[the underlørd]

80K!

jeez.. low miles.

[troyhyde]

This is preventatiive. Doing so would have definitely saved me a lot of grief.

Check your coolant hoses, the heater hoses going to the firewall, and the little hoses attached to the turbo intercooler piping (one is near where the heater hoses attach, the other on the end of the piping near the reservoir). If the heater hoses are soft or the other hoses have expanded (originally they are just a tad larger than fuel line), I would replace them all. Shouldn't cost but about $50 (FCP) and will possibly save you some headaches down the road. Might throw in upper/lower radiator hoses and expansion tank hoses if you are feeling really frisky.

This is fresh on my mind as one of these just popped and left me nearly stranded on a West Texas highway. No big deal, it was only 105 degrees outside.

Might also throw a spare radiator cap in your trunk, these crack without warning. I also have an ECT sensor in my trunk, these seem to break on me every once in a while.

I noticed that relacing motor mounts became an issue quite frequently before replacing the struts and mounts. These are pretty soft and don't take the extra abuse when the struts aren't working 100%. I'd recommend replacing with rubber parts (not silicone) unless you like to feel the engine in the cabin.

Might consider replacement of the PCV system to help avoid a rear main seal leak.

Good luck!

[Mojav]

Much appreciated... Troy.... and Underlord <g>... yeah I know its only 80k ... but with my luck I need all the preventative maint. I can get... my last 940 wagon needed a new head after blowing a heater valve... ouch that hurt.....

thanks to all...

Mojav