towerymt Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 Skimmed over the thread after reading the first post. I've never seen that either. If the muffler filled with fuel as you mentioned, than it would have to bypass the cat (seems unlikely), and there would be some major electrical or mechanical problem to allow such a thing to happen.So....why are you repairing this car that now has fire damage to the rear axle, rear suspension (bushings?), brakes, exhaust system, interior (?), PLUS some unknown problem with the fuel or ignition system? I'd say it's time to walk away from this one and find another car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 Tower, I appreciate your opinion, thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 Update: Well, I got a piece of the plastic fuel line to repair the damaged section. I tried to get it onto the fuel pump connection, but it was too difficult to just slide it over the nipple....any ideas? heat?Today, I'm going out to see if I can find some type of connector to splice the two pieces of line together. Got a feeling I may have to just buy some brass tubing and make something that will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowV Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 Read the post , I myself would be trying to do the fix to keep the car going . As somebody mentioned the seals on the pinion and fire side axle seal may be in need of being replaced. time will tell. As for the patching of fuel lines .... a possable temp patch .... slipping a bit of copper tubing into the lines and clamping both ends can work .... this is VERY temp ... you've seen what a fuel fire can do .... also recomend replacing the extingusher. Need to clamp the plastic tubing to the copper tight enough to not leak. as for finding the material to do repairs sometimes really good hardwares or a bigger vehical parts supply can be helpful ... as in is there a big truck parts house ( or repair center, or a place that dose repairs on selfpropled campers ) near you .... they often have materials in bulk ( by the foot ) and I really enjoy my "local " NAPA only 10 miles away , well for me anything is at least 10 miles , except the cows .Best of luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 Thanks SV !So I've temp repaired the fuel line and have a fully charged battery. Do I need to crank it for a while, or is there someway to prime it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 I loosened the nut between the rubber fuel line and the fuel rail? on top of the engine and gas did start to come out so I tightened it back up. I've cranked the car several more times, and I'm not getting anything. I did get a little rumble as if it was going to start, the first try within the first 15 seconds, but nothing since. I've never messed with the fuel injectors....guess it's time to learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 Oh yeah, and I'm going to check the junkyard for a fuel pressure regualtor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 Update: cranked her again this morning.... got a rumble a Couple of times, couldn't get her to catch, but it's improving. Got the old exploded front muffler and axle pipe off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowV Posted July 5, 2006 Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 Might want to check to see if the wires to the fuel pump in the tank are intact. A quick hot fire like that can melt insulation / break the strands of wire. I think someone mentioned a Bently manual .... I wish all manuals were that good. It'll walk ya through doing a check on the wiring to the pump, and a few other things to help narrow the chase of what's not working.Could be just a big 'ol air bubble that dosen't want to leave the system. If you getting a few "rumbbles" I would suspect air bubble if that dosen't go away relatively quickly ... I'd make sure the pump is getting the electric it needs ... and then look at the injectors .Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 Update: another morning.... cranked it and actually got it to run for as much as 15 seconds. Had to keep pressing the gas pedal to keep it going. Did hear a backfire and got a little gray/blue smoke, so there's still something wrong. Tested the wires to the injectors and the injector contacts, but couldn't get any reading with the ignition on at position II. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Cleaned the contacts while I was in there and got a slight improvement. Pressure regulator only had a very faint smell of gas at the hose connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 Forgot to mention, I did clean the flame trap, which the hose was totally clogged at the intake manifold. I did this before even trying to start the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 I picked up a used regulator....not sure if it's any better than the one I have, but worth a try. So, is there a trick to putting it back in the fuel rail? Should I take off the O-ring and put it in the hole first, or just let the bolts push the whole thing into that socket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Three Fat Tigers Posted July 6, 2006 Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 Put the o-ring on the FPR, put a little oil on the o-ring, push it into the fuel rail and install the bolts.For reference: http://www.fcpgroton.com/images/0280160294.jpgUse a heat gun for the plastic fuel line, don't get it too hot though.With the ignition on, engine off, you should see 12V+ in one terminal of each injector, the other terminal should show no ground, if either is not true, you need to solve that before attempting to start the car.Also most likely you need to pull and clean or replace the spark plugs, usually when spark plugs are fowled by tons of fuel, this is required.Otherwise: unplug the injectors, spray some starting fluid into the air box cover and and see if it will try to start, if it's really eager to start, then at least you know the ignition and valve timing are likely ok. You might also try this during cranking only with carb cleaner sprayed in to a vacuum nipple, the car should start and run as long as you provide the spray.You might also take a timing light and put it on each plug wire and see if the flashes are regular for all four during cranking.Odds are this is an ignition system failure, most likely suspect would be the speed sensor above the flywheel, next suspect in line would be the powerstage module. Otherwise it might well be a defective fuel ECU.To prime the fuel pumps, jumper the #4 & #6 fuses together, both pumps should run as long as they are jumpered regardless of the ignition switch position. For reference: http://www.threefattigers.com/Protocore/Vo...uelpumpjump.jpgIf you pull the #4 fuse and connect the jumper to the right side of the #4 holder, that should run only the main fuel pump, jumper to the left side to run only the in-tank prepump.Try checking for ODB1 codes: http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2006 Update: Don't forget that when you're giving me advice, I really have no clue what I am doing The first time I tried to test the injector harness I was seeing if current was going between both contacts on the harness connector....probably why I didn't get anything. This time I tried doing it from one harness contact to the car frame....this seemed to work. Both contacts on the same connector would show voltage. With the ingnition off and using the same method....no voltage from either contact on each of the 4 connectors.I haven't the faintest clue how to check the OBD codes even tho I followed the link. There is something in front of the strut that has a black cover with a screw holding that on. And what looks like several brake lines running into it. Is that it? Do I need some special gizmo to plug into it?When I crank the car, I do smell gas from underneath it. I assume this unburnt fuel coming out the now unencumbered exhaust pipe. I don't have a timing light and don't have much of a clue on how to use it properly, tho I know it's supposed to make the part look like it's standing still, but that's abou it."Odds are this is an ignition system failure, most likely suspect would be the speed sensor above the flywheel, next suspect in line would be the powerstage module. Otherwise it might well be a defective fuel ECU."I haven't a clue where these parts are, or how to even begin.Seems to be plenty of fuel pressure so I don't think I need to go thru the prime procedure. Is there a bleeding procedure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S70driver2 Posted July 7, 2006 Report Share Posted July 7, 2006 ive been reading this thread as it goes along and hope you get it all fixed, also i was wondering what whould make a '91 740 muffler snap right before the axle it jsut being weak or what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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