UsmcScott Posted July 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2006 Update: I took the black cover off that box with the brake line looking things.....doesn't look like the right thing....and I can't find the ECU either. I don't think I'm doing that harness/injector test correctly. But I may have had a break thru this morning. I pulled the center wire off the dist cap. Ends up that the end was all corroded and it wasn't even connected. Might be part of my problem.........ya think so ???? S70, maybe the bracket/rubber support rings were missing ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowV Posted July 8, 2006 Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 Well if the coil wire is corroded ... that could cause an interupted ignition senareo .... what a few guys did back when the cars all had carbs ..... run down the raod at 3/4 throttle ..... turn ignition off ... coast for a bit ..... and then turn ignition back on .... BANG ..... they tought it was big fun ..... drops your exhaust system off the vehical if it's week .... or makes the muffler grow in girth ... not recommended for longevity of ones exhaust .Back to the wire .... you may need to replace the spark plug wires and the coil wire .... Keep us posted . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 Well i've ordered a new coil wire and rear rubber brake hose from FCPgroton, and I picked up a front muffler from the junkyard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 Actually, I don't know if "corroded" is the correct term. The brass colored connector was covered in blue crud which I was told is caused by arcing. I did try to salvage the coil wire, but when I stripped it a few inches, I couldn't find any 'wire' inside of it, so I gave up and ordered the new one. I believe these were all replaced during a tune up about 7-8k miles ago.A little interesting background.....the car belonged to my sister back then. She took it to get serviced. IT FELL OFF THE LIFT ! .....went sideways and damaged the front fender. They also cross-threaded one of the spark plugs which was later repaired at a different shop. The shop (a Citgo station) that did the damage went out of business 3 weeks later after being in business for at least several years. Apparently the owner's heroin problem finally caught up with him. But he's got a rich wife that supports him....go figure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbit Posted July 8, 2006 Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 Update: I took the black cover off that box with the brake line looking things.....doesn't look like the right thing....and I can't find the ECU either. I don't think I'm doing that harness/injector test correctly. But I may have had a break thru this morning. I pulled the center wire off the dist cap. Ends up that the end was all corroded and it wasn't even connected. Might be part of my problem.........ya think so ???? S70, maybe the bracket/rubber support rings were missing ????If I'm not mistaken, the ECU is located on the passenger side kick panel. you have to remove the inside door molding at the bottom and the flexible vinyl strip that runs up the side. You should see two brass clips securing the kick panel. Remove those, and the ECU is underneath. The other ignition (EZ ignition) module is located on the firewall on the passenger side. It's a black box about 6"X6". :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Three Fat Tigers Posted July 8, 2006 Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 Sorry I couldn't get to a computer for more than a couple minutes yesterday.You should also order a new distributor cap, it's cheap and not worth taking the chance of a repeat, as it too may have been damaged. Odds are your issue was the coil wire. Also note that with a serious flooding like this, your engine oil will likely be contaminated with fuel, it may no longer be able to offer much protection for the engine, I highly recommend changing it.Your injector connector test results are normal, I was wrong before, both terminals will normally show power. Not relevant to your issue, but it's the fuel ECU switches the injector ground to 12V+ while the engine is not running, I'm not sure if it also does so between ground pulses once it sees the RPM signal from the ICU, I think I could find out with an LED wired between ground and the injector connector ground. So anyway, I think the only way to know for sure if the injectors are firing as apposed to being stuck on, is to either listen to/feel the injectors, they should click during cranking, or use a noid light which is just an LED with the proper resistor to run on 12V+, you could just buy a 12V LED pilot light at radioshack (Radioshack part# 276-270 through 276-272, 276-084 or 276-085), and connect this across the terminals of one injector connector, should flash as the engine is cranked. If it doesn't light up at all, flip/reverse the wires of the led light in case the polarity is wrong and test again, if it then doesn't flash and remains steady off or on, and the ignition system is not suspect, odds are the fuel ECU is defective.black cover off that box with the brake line looking thingsThat is your ABS pump. Your ODB1 test socket looks like the photo provided in the link I posted above.http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htmThis will be somewhere next to the ABS pump, I'd be more specific but I haven't opened the hood of a 240 with ODB1 in 13 months now.It's just too simple to test your codes. It would be pretty difficult to improve on the instructions posted on that link. Pop the cover off the test connector, there is a test lead attached, plug that into socket #2, press the button for more than 1 second but less than 3 seconds and record the led flashes, if you get a 1-1-1, you are done, if not write it down and repeat this process 2 more times, it can store up to three codes. Then repeat all that with the test lead in socket #6.The ECU is behind the right kick panel just in front of the right front passenger door.Minus a timing light, you could at least check for spark, this is done by taking a spare plug and placing it in a wire, grounding the plug on the engine and cranking, keep yourself well insulated, unplug the injectors if you don't want any fuel going through the engine. You could also pull a plug and use it.The spark should be regular and the color should be bright white/blue, not orange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 Thanks TFT and Rabbit,I'm going to work on those things TFT. In the mean time, here's some pics of the damage underneath the rear seat.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 I ordered my parts Fri., ....they're supposed to come today, Tues.. So when I pull the rear rubber brake hose, is fluid going to go everywhere ? Any tips for tackling that project before I begin ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Three Fat Tigers Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 Well hopefully there will be fluid coming out, let it drain the reservoir, and while it's apart, I'd also open the bleed nipples on the rear calipers and let them drain out too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 Update: replaced the coil wire, cleaned the spark plugs, and attached the front muffler only. The car runs... a little rough still, but she's running. It happens that I had changed the oil and filter just before the problem started, so hopefully the current oil will last me thru the repair stages. Next plan is to move the car to a better part of the yard and begin the brake work. How am I going to test for damage to the rear axle parts mentioned earlier? How much brake fluid is going to come out? a quart?Is she running rough because the gas is getting near two months old? I'm considering swapping the old FPR back in as I'm unsure about the uesd one I replaced it with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Three Fat Tigers Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 When you do change the oil, you won't really need to change the oil filter, so put in 3 quarts, start the engine, stop and check your level, add in what you need.I really don't know why it's running rough, I'd start by checking the ODB1 codes. Your fuel would have to be over 6 months old before I'd even remotely suspect it, I have fuel in cars that have sat up for a year that ran 100% perfect on it.Odds are less than a pint of brake fluid will come out, you will likely need a quart size bottle to refill and fully bleed the system.I could be wrong but I really doubt there is any issue with the rear axle, I'd try driving the car and see if you hear any unusual sounds. Odds are the worst case you need an axle bearing and seal, not a really hard thing to change, you might also want to change the fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 OK, I finally found the little diagnostic thing, right where you said it was The cap was off and it was dangling on a wire. I tried following the instructions in the Haynes, but I got no LED light at all. Drove the car slowly up and back down the driveway. Everything seemed "okay" for a first test run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 Well, I'm done for the evening. The car has been moved to a better spot. I raised the right rear and took off the tire. The rubber cap on the caliper bleed valve is still in good shape.....a good sign that the rubber piston seal probably wasn't damaged either. When the car was on fire the wind was blowing most of the fire out the rear right wheel well, so that's where the worst damage was. I've never bled a whole brake system before. Do I have to bleed it "evenly" as in equally from each rear wheel ? Should I bleed it all out the wheels BEFORE removing the rubber brake hose ? Do I have to bleed the front too ? Should I remove the cap from the reservoir first ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 that's strange..... I seem to be unusually low on radiator coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UsmcScott Posted July 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2006 Update: Discovered that the two rubber fuel lines that run to the tank are showing some damage. I'll have to repair or replace both of them too. There's a wire running out of the trunk and up to a "module" that is also connected to the differential sensor. That wire burnt off right at the module....didn't really lose any length tho, but looks like a tough fix as there's not even a stub of wire coming out of the "module". I'm not sure what this wire does? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.