Muffler Exploded '92 240 Wagon Fire Damage Rear Axle

[Three Fat Tigers]

The sensor on the diff cover is for the speedometer, this is also used by the ABS. The wire is just normal wire, a pair of wires that are twisted together to cancel out signal interference. The black box is just a plastic box that surrounds a harness connector, it functions as an anti-tamper device to keep you from tampering with the odometer reading

For reference:

http://www.threefattigers.com/Protocore/Vo...edoBackBox2.jpg

Bleeding Brakes:

Check out a shop manual, I recommend the Robert Bentley 240 service manual, it's very well written and under 32$ delivered from amazon.com, it covers bleeding the ABS system which the Haynes is a bit dodgy on. I've used the mity-vac hand vacuum pump (around 20$ at walmart) for one person bleeding on my '92 245 with no problems.

You don't have to bleed the front brakes, but you might as well do so and take the opportunity to flush the entire system, this should be done every two years anyway, even if you don't drive it. I would bleed the right rear first, then the left rear then the right rear again. As I said above, when you have the rubber line off, you could let the fluid drain out of the calipers, this is not required, you could just do this part while bleeding the brakes. The reservoir cap can be on or off, it's obviously easier with it off as you will need to add fluid during this process. Normally you need at least a quart to flush the whole system, but often you need a little bit more than that, I'd want to have at least an extra pint or two on hand.

[UsmcScott]

Thurs. morning Update: Temporarily completed full muffler assembly.....just need to tighten and tweak. Starting to sound like it's old self now. Replaced the rubber brake hose with no problems.....just need to bleed now. Topped off the coolant....took over 3 quarts !

TFT, I finally got the diagnostic to work....got a 2-3-2....fuel compensation error. Didn't check for other codes yet. My check engine light is on which it's not supposed to be for this error code, so I suspect I have other errors.

Experiencing some hesitation when I step on the gas pedal. Still running a little rough....more work to do, but I'm pretty happy .... so far

Bought the 11mm flare nut wrench for the brake hose..... $5 ....sheesh !

I made a mistake about the path of the wire. It's separate from the sensor anti-tamper 'box', but is located right next to it.

[UsmcScott]

I'm using my old muffler axle pipe. It's broken at the rear muffler, but I used a connector piece to get it to hook up. Any recommendations on what I can seal the joint with???? muffler repair kits ? JB Weld ? I really just need to seal the connections.

[UsmcScott]

OK, did the diagnostic again after swapping back the old FPR.

Still get the 2-3-2 code. Was able to pull a second code this time, 1-2-1 fault in signal for air mass meter.

So what's the next step ?

[UsmcScott]

I'm missing the tailpipe off my rear muffler. I don't remember what it looked like. I see Groton offers an L shape and an S shape. Is there any way to tell which one I need, or does it even matter ?

[UsmcScott]

I tried disconnecting the harness from each injector, one at a time. Each time I did this, the engine would run even rougher. I assume this means that all my injectors are probably good ?

[Three Fat Tigers]

So you got a 1-1-1 with the test lead in socket #6?

On the muffler, I'd take it to a shop and have it welded, I don't know of any other way to have a lasting repair, it shouldn't cost much. They could also make you a tail pipe any shape you want, the 240 normally has an S shaped pipe, IINM the '92 came from the factory powder coated black.

As for the ODB1 codes you have:

Unplug the MAF and and inspect it for any signs of corrosion, then re-seat the connector on the MAF several times. Reset the codes (disconnect the battery for a minute) and see if the codes come back. You might try unplugging the MAF sensor then starting the car and see if it runs better/worse/the same; try also with the oxygen sensor unplugged.

Next would be to test the inputs to the fuel ECU at the ECU connector and if they are within spec, try another ECU and or MAF.

Unplug the LH ECU behind the right kick panel, test between the a good ground point and terminal #13 of the ECU connector. Point the open face of the connector at you, with the wires pointing up, terminal #13 is the 13th hold down the right column. Be very careful when probing the terminals not to damage them.

With the coolant temp at around 60-70º this should read higher than 2200 ohms, and with the coolant at full operating temp, it should read under 400 ohms. Keep the test meter connected for at least 30 seconds, some temp sensors have read fine for the first 5 seconds and then read open after that.

If you read an open circuit, carefully inspect the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor, located below intake runner #3) connector for corrosion, make sure the female terminals haven't come loose inside the plug and have been pushed back into the connector such that they no longer make proper contact. Also test for continuity between the ECT connector female terminals and terminal #13 of the ECU connector.

Otherwise go through all of the inputs to the LH ECU at it's connector, the Robert Bentley manual has a good section on these tests, also run the tests on the MAF sensor. If they all look good, try another fuel ECU, maybe also another MAF sensor, though first I'd take a few minutes and verify your timing belt timing marks are lining up, just in case the belt might have skipped a tooth or three.

The ECU can be sourced from all '89+ 240s, and from '89+ non turbo 740/940 with LH injection (as in not Regina, the Regina cars will have a huge square ignition coil on front of the left strut tower). The ECU part number doesn't matter, whether the car has EGR or not doesn't matter.

The MAF can be sourced from any Volvo with LH 2.4, so that includes all of the above and all '90+ 740/760/940 turbos. The last three digits of the Bosch part number will be 016.

Consider replacing whatever ignition components (cap-rotor-wires-plugs-speed sensor) that you haven't already done. Check the color of the spark from the coil, take a plug wire and insert a spare spark plug in the end, ground the plug on the engine, the spark color should be bright white to blue, not red/orange/yellow. Make sure all connections at the coil are in good order, verify you see full battery voltage at terminal #15 (+).

[UsmcScott]

Thanks TFT ! don't know what I'd do without you

OK.... no, I never got a 111 until now. All I did was replace the MAF, now I get a 1-1-1 in #2 and #6. There appears to be some oil in the air tube between the MAF and the manifold.....possibly related to my previously clogged flame trap ????

The check engine light is now OFF.... yeah!

Hesitation is GONE, but she still idles a little rough. And that 'miss at idle,' seems to still show itself sporadically even at higher RPMs.

[UsmcScott]

I guess I'm going to have to go after the cap and rotor next, and see if that fixes things.

[UsmcScott]

My parts should be here tomorrow (Tues.). I'm little peeved because I just realized this morning I need both e-brake cables and I only ordered one.

I can't figure out if the fuel line is just rubber or reinforced braided stainless steel coated with rubber. Then there's that part that was mounted up above the differential which I haven't figured out yet. I'm attaching some pics showing the fuel line, mystery part which doesn't seem to have any copper wires coming out of it (is it a vent tube?), and the area where the e-brake cable is broken (same place on both hubs).

[Three Fat Tigers]

I'm pretty sure the first and last photos are the vent for the rear axle assembly, IINM the part that bolts on the frame acts as an oil separator/filter. As for the fuel line, I seriously doubt it is reinforced with stainless, though if so, it should react to a magnet.

[UsmcScott]

You and your freaking magnets ! Of course that was a great idea ! My eyes are getting so bad, I couldn't tell what that braided material was made of. And you're right, it's not magnetic.

Gonna be over a 100 degrees today.....doubt I'll be getting any work done on the car in this heat

So how important is that vent which runs into the "trunk" ? and how important is the vent off the axle that runs up to the engine ?

[S70driver2]

S70, maybe the bracket/rubber support rings were missing ????

Well if the coil wire is corroded ... that could cause an interupted ignition senareo .... drops your exhaust system off the vehical if it's week .... or makes the muffler grow in girth ... not recommended for longevity of ones exhaust .

i was driving done the street and going about 3/4-full accel and it just went BANG then the car got really slow and then was ok but after that i kept hearing this clank, the exhaust hitting the axle.

well it just snapped before the hanger. like there is the axle and right before that it broke.

[Three Fat Tigers]

So how important is that vent which runs into the "trunk" ? and how important is the vent off the axle that runs up to the engine ?

I have no idea what the vent is that runs into the trunk. As for the vent off the axil that runs to the engine, by that I assume you mean the vent from the fuel tank which runs to the charcoal canister? if so, it's very important, a huge amount of fumes are pumped through that.

[UsmcScott]

that part I showed a pic of.....it's connected to a 'tube' coming out of the body of the body of the car. Normally, where the trunk would be, but this is a wagon. That's why I put trunk in quotes. On the backside of that piece, it looks like there's another very short tube connection. In the pic, you can see where it was mounted next to a bracket that holds the abs sensor wire.

The other vent is a thin 'pvc' tube that is attached directly to the axle (on top, maybe a 1/3 of the way from the hub) tand runs up to the engine compartment. I believe you said earlier that it might be part of the abs system. About 5 feet of that tube burnt away.