freeskier8585 Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 mine just fell off when i did it.... youll also need a torque wrench, 50 ft/llbs for those control arm to chassis mounts and 37 for the ball joint. happy wrenching! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfeener Posted July 26, 2006 Report Share Posted July 26, 2006 Just so you don't get into trouble here. The control arm to sub-frame torque is actually 48 ft/lbs plus another 120 degrees of rotation. Big difference between that and just 48 ft/lbs. Also they must be tightened while in the normal loaded position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymondjiii Posted July 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2006 Just so you don't get into trouble here. The control arm to sub-frame torque is actually 48 ft/lbs plus another 120 degrees of rotation. Big difference between that and just 48 ft/lbs. Also they must be tightened while in the normal loaded position.Normal loaded position == tire on and floor jack removed - correct?Was the torque spec on the bolt by the ball joint correct as the other poster stated?I just checked everything tonight and much to my surprise all of the bolts are easily removed without any lubricant - the only thing is that I can't exactly torque the 2nd bolt (out of the four subframe bolts) unless I take off the engine mount and raise the engine from the oil pan. Decissions. I am going to do this job tomorrow night when my pickle fork arrives. I think it might be better to just estimate the torque of the 2nd bolt rather than screw around with raising the engine for enough clearance for a torque wrench and risk royalying screwing things up.Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfeener Posted July 27, 2006 Report Share Posted July 27, 2006 Easiest way to achieve the "loaded" position is to put the car on jack stands and after you change the control arm, use a floor jack to raise the control arm until it's just about to lift off the jack stand.The ball joint torque is 37 ft/lbs.Yes, I would estimate the torque. Overtight is better than under, in this case.You may also find that the ball joint slips right out without much bother at all. When I did mine, I hit them with some PB Blaster a few days before and I could pull them right out by hand after I removed the ball joint bolt. The ball joint is not wedged in, so if it's not rusted too bad it should come right out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymondjiii Posted July 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2006 Are the torque specs the same for the four bolt control arm?Both Haynes and Chilton say the same as said here but they only discuss the two bolt version and say nothing about the four bolt.On the four bolt version the nut is essentially part of the control arm - there is no seperate nut. At 48 ft/lbs I cannot see getting another 120 degrees of rotation on this type of control arm. (I've tried )Does anyone have the definitive answer on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfeener Posted July 30, 2006 Report Share Posted July 30, 2006 I can't find anything specifically for the 4 bolt version. I check the Volvo 98 S70 manual and AllData and there's no reference. It's really not all that important. You just need to get them tight enough so the inner bushing sleeve doesn't turn in relation to the subframe. I would just tighten them up as close as you can to the spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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