czar Posted October 10, 2006 Report Share Posted October 10, 2006 I have a 1986 240 DL Wagon with 215,000 miles.The temperature slide adjuster moves all of the way but it seems that the vents are blowing either outside air or the heater is on full blast. There doesn't seem to be any in-between.i used to have an'82 240 GL Wagon. And seem to remember the same thing with it's heater.The A/C in the current car does not work...by the way. The compressor does not turn on. Fuse is okay.thanks for the help. Eric :ph34r: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmelviØØ7 Posted October 11, 2006 Report Share Posted October 11, 2006 I have a 1986 240 DL Wagon with 215,000 miles.The temperature slide adjuster moves all of the way but it seems that the vents are blowing either outside air or the heater is on full blast. There doesn't seem to be any in-between.i used to have an'82 240 GL Wagon. And seem to remember the same thing with it's heater.The A/C in the current car does not work...by the way. The compressor does not turn on. Fuse is okay.thanks for the help. Eric As for the heat, welcome to the wonderful world of owning a 240. If you find a solution to that problem let me know, I have just learned to deal with it.A/C try junpering the low pressure switch to see if that makes the compressor kick on. If it does I would say your switch is bad, if not I would put money on the compressor. If you are thinking about repairing it, Volvo makes a R134A conversion kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Three Fat Tigers Posted October 11, 2006 Report Share Posted October 11, 2006 You might try another control valve. I've owned quite a number of 240s and not one ever had a problem with varying the amount of heat desired via the heater control lever. AC: If the compressor is turning on, and your pressure switch on the dryer is in good order (hasn't been bypassed) you may well have a defective expansion valve or a bad compressor. I'd put a set of gauges on the car and see what's actually going on. Another slight possibility would be that while the system contains pressure, it is something other than freon, I've seen this before where it showed pressure but actually had very little freon, recharging the system corrected the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmelviØØ7 Posted October 11, 2006 Report Share Posted October 11, 2006 You might try another control valve. I've owned quite a number of 240s and not one ever had a problem with varying the amount of heat desired via the heater control lever. AC: If the compressor is turning on, and your pressure switch on the dryer is in good order (hasn't been bypassed) you may well have a defective expansion valve or a bad compressor. I'd put a set of gauges on the car and see what's actually going on. Another slight possibility would be that while the system contains pressure, it is something other than freon, I've seen this before where it showed pressure but actually had very little freon, recharging the system corrected the issue.And this is why you are the RWD mod. I suck at RWD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadetreemechanic Posted November 19, 2006 Report Share Posted November 19, 2006 Owning a Volvo is a new experience for me, I recently purchased a 1978, 244 DL 2.1. Originally titled in California, I suspect it conforms to the regulations under California's Emision Controls. Last week I had no heat, the blower seemed to work well but cold air, not warm or hot, was comming form the vent and windshield defrost. I reasoned that the thermostat was likely stuck open; so last week, I replaced the thermostat. Now, after replacing the thermostat, I find that I still have no heat. The heater hose get's warm to the touch, the fan seems to be blowing fine when the switch is turned on, etc.. If anyone has some suggestions, concerning a good way for me to troubleshoot the problem, I'd be really grateful..? It's going to be getting really cold in New England here, very soon. I'll need defrost but would also like some heat too..! I'm hopeful that it's not something too complex. I'd like to be able correct the problem, without need for a technician to service it..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeFatTigers Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 Odds are the problem is the heater control valve. This is located at the left front lower corner of the fan/heater box, access by removing the left side panel from the center dash console. With the car warmed up, reach in and see if the hoses on both sides of the valve are hot. Make sure the heater control cable is moving the lever on the heater valve.To remove the heater valve, you just disconnect the control cable, remove the valve from the bracket and then disconnect the hoses, best to clamp/pinch off the hoses first. I'd also place some plastic under the area to catch any fluid. When installing the new valve, make sure the control cable is adjusted so that it fully closes off the heater valve approx 1/8" before the heater control lever reaches the end of it's travel (heat off position).If your car has the original type valve installed, there will be a small copper tube coming off the valve going up into the fan cover, this you want to cut off the valve rather than pull out of the fan housing, if you remove it from the fan housing, you will need to plug a large hole left by this, and the new redesigned replacement valve will not have this component. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffo Posted November 30, 2006 Report Share Posted November 30, 2006 Odds are the problem is the heater control valve. This is located at the left front lower corner of the fan/heater box, access by removing the left side panel from the center dash console. With the car warmed up, reach in and see if the hoses on both sides of the valve are hot. Make sure the heater control cable is moving the lever on the heater valve.To remove the heater valve, you just disconnect the control cable, remove the valve from the bracket and then disconnect the hoses, best to clamp/pinch off the hoses first. I'd also place some plastic under the area to catch any fluid. When installing the new valve, make sure the control cable is adjusted so that it fully closes off the heater valve approx 1/8" before the heater control lever reaches the end of it's travel (heat off position).If your car has the original type valve installed, there will be a small copper tube coming off the valve going up into the fan cover, this you want to cut off the valve rather than pull out of the fan housing, if you remove it from the fan housing, you will need to plug a large hole left by this, and the new redesigned replacement valve will not have this component.+1 Nice write-up. The new style HCV allows for a slight bleed-by when fully closed. They also are flimsier compared to the old style, so if you wind up replacing, be careful how you adjust the cable or you could break the plastic arm that controls the valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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