Fudge_Brownie Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 Rotate the brake levers down quite a bit, so that you don't have to cock your wrist back at all to reach them? Maybe some new grips so you can feel comfortable holding on with the minimal amount of effort?I know it might seem unlikely to help, but riding with a death grip on the bars is very tiring. Especially if the grips offer zero impact padding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt b Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 Ok Pros...I need some advise. I've got a GT i-drive 3.0 similar to this one, but with various components upgraded. I stopped riding it several years ago, because of a severe discomfort that I experienced in my right wrist when riding long distances (similar to carpel tunnel, i guess, but without the telltale knot). Now that I'm fat, out of shape and almost 50, I really want to start pounding the miles out again. Got any suggestions on avoiding the wrist pain? Your link is dead but it's no big deal to answer your question. If it's due to the position on the bike, try wearing a splint to keep that area of your wrist slightly less cocked. I would also make it a point to stretch your forearm muscles after a ride, as dumb as it sounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mesoam Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 I just did a quick google on the GT you listed above, looks like it has pretty cramped geometry which could be part of the problem putting more pressure on your wrist Look into diet and cross training as well, lifting weights is a great way to improve endurance on the bike, the stronger your whole body is the less fatigue you will experience. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurgerBob Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 Ok Pros...I need some advise. I've got a GT i-drive 3.0 similar to this one, but with various components upgraded. I stopped riding it several years ago, because of a severe discomfort that I experienced in my right wrist when riding long distances (similar to carpel tunnel, i guess, but without the telltale knot). Now that I'm fat, out of shape and almost 50, I really want to start pounding the miles out again. Got any suggestions on avoiding the wrist pain? Tilt the saddle nose up. Takes some of the pressure off of your hands and puts it on your ass/taint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quiksilver Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 Ok Pros...I need some advise. I've got a GT i-drive 3.0 similar to this one, but with various components upgraded. *SNIP* I stopped riding it several years ago, because of a severe discomfort that I experienced in my right wrist when riding long distances (similar to carpel tunnel, i guess, but without the telltale knot). Now that I'm fat, out of shape and almost 50, I really want to start pounding the miles out again. Got any suggestions on avoiding the wrist pain? Have you heard of Ergon grips? They're not for clydesdale weight weenies, but may help you out. http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/en/ergonomics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing3 Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 They're not for clydesdale weight weenies,l] I represent that comment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurgerBob Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 ^ Have you ever considered riding bare bars? You could shave grams! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing3 Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 i do. my tape only comes 1 wrap past the hoods lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurgerBob Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Oh, but you have the big ass flat top drop bars don't you? I'm a little disappointed in myself. I opted out of a 70-mile ride option for a 40; the area's too hilly for me to be confident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing3 Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Oh, but you have the big ass flat top drop bars don't you? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Since Mike and Alden seem to be on the topic, what do you think is a fair price for this FSR? I was thinking if he can provide receipts of the work done and he throws in the extra's its worth his asking price. Without the extras I was thinking in the $1200 range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mesoam Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 I think 1200 for the whole shebang is better...1: its a specialized 2: it has a lot of just generic specialized components 3: sram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Since Mike and Alden seem to be on the topic, what do you think is a fair price for this FSR? I was thinking if he can provide receipts of the work done and he throws in the extra's its worth his asking price. Without the extras I was thinking in the $1200 range. I think 1200 for the whole shebang is better...1: its a specialized 2: it has a lot of just generic specialized components 3: sram Yep. Travis' points are what I was thinking as I was reading the ad. The mix of SRAM with shimano sucks I'd buy it for 1200, Keep the Mavic wheels if theyre in good shape, sell all the SRAM on ebay and replace with good used XT and also sell the OE wheelset ($150 should be ballpark for that) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 The guys above have more experience, so I can't add much.But I will say that bike would be listed for $900-1200 around here, not accounting for claimed condition, fresh rebuild, or extras.And FYI, it's a 2006 http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/archive/2006/stumpjumperfsr/stumpjumperfsrproIf I'm right that it is an 06, it was spec'ed with a brain. I don't see that in the pictures, and no mention of it in the ad. Not a big deal, just seems odd that he didn't include it in his salespitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mesoam Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 I was also wondering the MANF year...I'd say 1200 max on that now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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