Timbo Slice Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 I trim the flat part of the liner off and then it tucks behind the rolled portion a lot easier. Since you're getting rid of the flat portion of the fender essentially (with rolling), there's no need to keep it on the liner. I cut back only as much as I rolled so it still sits flush on the portion that is not rolled. You can't even tell that I did anything, and my fenders and liners on my S60 look like they came that way. Just take your time and you'll get it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 (edited) Gearing up for some more upgrades! After bugging Trent for months to sell me his manifold, I was finally successful. Also bought his cat cams, wastegate and downpipe etc.. Then I was advised to upgrade my valve springs, so I bought these from Swedish mike at Autotech. These require different retainers since Volvo changed the spring design in 99 and the upgraded springs are the newer shape (right). The early RN heads still use the 7mm valves so these are the retainers you need. This got me wondering why I can't use the solid lifters too, but i'm still trying to wrap my head around that. Based on this thread.. and this post specifically, http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=804652&postcount=33 it appears that some of the 6 cyl motors got the solid lifters, updated spring design but retained the cams with 32mm base circle. It wouldn't be suprising if this happened on some of the 5 cyls also. I didn't get the cams that came with the junk head I pulled the retainers from, so i'm going to try get my hands on those. If they do indeed have the same base circle, it might be worth looking more into. Otherwise I just go with my hydros and keep the rpms at 8k Solid lifter on the bottom. I ordered all new timing belt, water pump, tensioners, cam seals, valve stem seals, etc etc.. a few days ago, so just waiting for all that to arrive and then I get to pull my car back apart. Stay tuned..Also cut up and old cam cover to use for setting the cams up.. still trying to figure that one out too, measuring lift with hydro lifters.. Edited February 12, 2015 by BlackT5 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Looks good. Very curious too see what you find out on the solid lifters. It would be nice to run solid lifters. I ordered a set of those springs too, can't wait to get em in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
854TGA+ Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 COP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 (edited) Yep. i'll be converting to coil on plug. I have to fish the wires out from the Nira harness. I'm using the cyl 1 wire to run the ignition coil for the distributor. Can't remember if I even ran the rest through the firewall.Also thinking of going to an alu rad and running an external oil cooler.Need bigger injectors and might buy a Nuke fuel rail and aftermarket fuel pressure regulator/lines.BUT! I also want to be able to actually drive my car this summer, so we'll see how time and budget play out.Once the manifold goes in, I will need to rejig the intake piping to the turbo, some of the intercooler piping and also the exhaust.I'm not sure I wanna run an open wastegate dump either.. Edited February 12, 2015 by BlackT5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin. Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 take a look at the DO88 radiator, their quality is top notch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 (edited) take a look at the DO88 radiator, their quality is top notch Yes it is! And mine was only $275 (got intercooler too, so saved on shipping). Welds are very nice and it is quality control tested. Comes with a metal and plastic drain plug, not to mention how well it was package and got here in 3 days from sweden! Edited February 12, 2015 by Simply Volvo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Is that packing material stuck on the rad?Where do I order? directly from DO88? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Is that packing material stuck on the rad? Where do I order? directly from DO88? Yes that is packing material. I suggest ordering directly through the vendor here do88ab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Nice! So the Cat Cams are for the N head? What about your intake manifold? That will be the next thing you'll need to revise..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Ugh. I wanna do88 intercooler too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 I'm sticking with the hydro lifters and will set the rpm limit to 8k.Started pulling my car apart last weekend..S60r manifold and turbo off..Swapped the 5 bolt T3 .63 housing to the vband T3 .82 housing and test fit the turbo and manifold on a spare motor.Compressor housing hits the water pipe when it's clocked how I want it. Looks like I can get away with putting a small dent in the pipe. The two water ports on the pipe will have to be relocated if I want to fit the 4" intake pipe. I'm going to drag a spare m56 up from the basement and see how it works with the trans mount. I should have just pulled my motor/trans for this shitt, it would be a lot easier to do the timing belt, water pump etc..Pulled the cam cover off to replac the valve stem seals and install the autotech valve springs and different retainers.DoneNow i'm trying to wrap my head around setting up the cat cams. H, i might be sending you a PM. NA intake cam and catcam intake cam with the slots lined up looks to put the lobes in the same general location. (no measurements yet)of course, the bolt holes for the cam gears is way off so i'll have to measure and make my own marks.That's where i'm at.. lots left to do! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Nice! I like your valve seal replacement setup! What pressure did you have to maintain to keep the valves from dropping? What cam timing specs did you get from Trent/his Tuner? Are they set by Lift like Enem Cams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted March 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 I used about 60 psi. A couple of the retainers stuck at first and caused the valve to open. Scared the shit out of me. No cam settings were passed on, but I might call the tuner and see what he says. Best way to set them up will be by lift at tdc. I don't know if there is another way but if you have a suggestion... Here is the spec sheet. http://www.catcams.co.uk/acatalog/7902713.pdf My concern was that my measurements would not be accurate when trying to measure off a hydro lifter. It's strange though, my 98 lifters do not look like the hydro lifters I pulled out of an old 96 turbo head when I was practicing with my valve spring compressor. The buckets are totally different and the 96 were spongy when I pushed on them, mine feel solid. I'll post a pic in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 (edited) Here's my lifter Had some time today and ripped out the old rad in anticipation for the new DO88 rad once the group buy finalizes. Also removed the AC condenser and compressor. How do you disconnect the AC lines at the firewall? or what to use instead of the special tool to release the drier hard line? Edited March 4, 2015 by BlackT5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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