Tightmopedman9 Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 At least that's what I did. Just make a new plate out of sheet metal without the pass throughs and it won't look too bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 (edited) I talked to KM Cams about setting them up via lift at TDC. I told them I was concerned with the hydrualic lifters the measurements would be off too. They said our engines use a direct lifter type unlike ex Chevy engine with hydros. For the Chevy engine the measurements would be off Go ahead and set them up like solid lifters. Edited March 4, 2015 by Simply Volvo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the info.My concern was this.. 96 850 turbo head. but my lifters don't do this.http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v186/BlackT5/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps3473281c.mp4 Edited March 4, 2015 by BlackT5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Interesting. I don't think my lifters have done that. Maybe they are old and needed servicing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
854TGA+ Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 I mentioned to Mark that I have a couple lifters that do the same thing. Zero lifter tick detected when my motor was together and running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Just checked my lifters again and most don't do it, but I found a couple that do. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Just checked my lifters again and most don't do it, but I found a couple that do. lol Might be time for new ones or servicing. New ones cost like $10 a piece, servicing requires you to slam the lifter very very hard down onto a table and everything should pop out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 I had them all replaced when my motor was built, but I suppose that was 10 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted March 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Here's my 4.4 rail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 -8 AN fittings welded to the oil cooler lines. Will run braided hose to this Earls oil cooler. DO88 aluminum rad should arrive in a week or two. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin. Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 that's super smart given how shitty the OEM oil cooler lines are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Progress is slowwwww. Installed the new water pump, idler pulley. Had to stop when none of my torque wrenches would fit between the frame rail when trying to torque the new timing belt tensioner pulley. Picking up a new torque wrench today. Picked up this TDC locator for $20 shipped off amazon and it works great. Marked true TDC Spun the crank to Volvo TDC and set the cams in the open cover. With the slots aligned, they look to be in the ballpark so it should just be a matter of fine tuning them Wire is just to hold the cams in the cover during placement. Plenty of assembly lube used, don't worry I have not tightened the cover down, but it doesn't look like much room to get the dial gauge on the lifter, especially at the correct angle inline with the valve stem. DO88 rad should be here this week with some new Volvo coils. COP wiring is figured out. Working on adjustments to the big water pipe so I can finish plumbing the turbo. Also starting to mock up the revised intercooler piping.Looking at it now, it might almost be easier to get the dial gauge on the cyl 3 lifters..hmmm 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted April 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Got it all ready to set the cams but the motor seemed too difficult to turn over. Piston clearance was good on all cyls. Seemed like perhaps the cams were binding since it's not the original cover? perhaps the cut up cover was warped? I quickly bailed on the whole idea and pulled it all apart. I'm going to measure off cyl 3 and use my original cam cover. First I had to create access on the exh side. Tapped out the plug and pressed in another filler neck. Dual oil cap status! Time to find tdc on cyl 3 and put things back together..I swear if I ever have to do this shit again, i'm pulling the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 Pretty safe to assume that other cover isn't true for you cams/head since they're line bored. I cut an old cover in segments, which worked better Easier to use #3, I found. Getting the dial indicator to sit on the bucket and not ride on the cam is fun no matter how you do it. . I had to Measure lift at least three times on Each cam to be sure there was no error. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted April 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 I'm trying to decide if I should dry fit it all to measure or just go ahead and put in the seals and anerobic sealant. Leaning toward the latter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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