Simply Volvo Posted June 24, 2015 Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 Your fuel lines look very professional.Quick question,How did you secure them to the chassis? Did they fit under the stock fuel line carrier? Or did you use some sort of hose bracket with self tapping screws.Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted June 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) The -6 lines fit in the stock plastic housings under the car. The main one that runs under and the few retaining brackets that hold the lines over the axle and on top of the tank. You have to drop the tank to get the old lines out and get the new ones in. The tank drops really easily on FWDs.There are a few places where they enter the engine bay where I used big cable brackets to secure them away from the downpipe etc.I pulled the old lines out and was able to loop them with some spare fittings to stop gas from pouring out everywhere.. Just placing my order for Goodrich steel braided PTFE hoses from Pegasus auto racing supply. These guys are absolutely amazing to deal with.I'm debating having them make the lines up with crimp on fittings so they can pressure test them etc.. or just buying their hose and fittings and installing the reusable fittings myself. I'm leaning towards the crimp on so once I get them, I can throw them in and be DONE. Finalizing the order tomorrow morning. Edited July 14, 2015 by BlackT5 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 (edited) I bought a 100' roll of 12mm fuel grade tubing from AutomationDirect, along with rubber hose from McMasterCarr to sleeve it for the long runs. fittings are Derale 92801, AN06 barbed, enlarged to 5/8" ID, pressed into the 12mm line & further retained with oetiker clamps.AN08 braided line with swivel fittings for final run from FPRI bought 10mm tube first, but only used that for the SUR&R feed and return lines to the senders.The 12mm line fits inside the stock conduit. Your steel braided line is going to be too large for that, I believe. Edited July 13, 2015 by lookforjoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted July 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 New PTFE fuel lines are here and look top notch Cost more than the parts car I just bought though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted July 13, 2015 Report Share Posted July 13, 2015 Nice!Did you keep note of the specific lengths to run fore/aft for the FWD style tank? I need to setup some lengths of 12mm tube for another forum member with 850 FWD chassis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted July 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2015 I have the lengths. but they're specific to having the regulator mounted on the rail. The lines were actually a couple inches too long, but it was easy to tuck the slack.I put the new lines in and the fuel smell is gone.Started it up and it was running a bit off, which I figured was just do to the tune but I didn't have much time to look at it. Tried again yesterday and same thing but not too bad. I tried backing it out the driveway but it was stuttering when you put any load in it. Also noticed a pretty significant oil leak from the exhaust side of the cam cover, dripping oil all over the turbo.Pretty obvious that the cam cover would need resealing so I started tearing into it last night. Just wrenchin away when I looked up and noticed a white thing sticking out of one of the coil packs. One of my plugs was broken. Never seen one break like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quiksilver Posted July 13, 2015 Report Share Posted July 13, 2015 One of my Volvo plugs broke exactly like that when I was installing them after my engine swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted July 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2015 I see Volvo sells the little cap that presses into the cam cover. Probably going to take out the second filler neck since I don't like how close it sits to the manifold. I already have the cams dialed in so no real need for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 (edited) I see Volvo sells the little cap that presses into the cam cover. Probably going to take out the second filler neck since I don't like how close it sits to the manifold. I already have the cams dialed in so no real need for it. Save the neck - I might need another EDIT - I have a brand new blanking cap I installed in a cover but never used - I'll trade if you want. You know to press it from the inside I assume. I use a little anearobic schmear when installing Edited July 14, 2015 by lookforjoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted July 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Got the cover off You can see the area where it was leaking, the sealant looks all f*cked. I think it might have gotten oil in it? idkHoping to get my new seals and sealant today so I can clean it up and put it back together.Any tips? I'll clean all the surfaces and wipe with brake clean to get any oil off. I feel like I wanna add a bit extra goop along that edge just to be sure it's going to seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 The sealant actually repels oil, so most likely you didn't have it thick enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 How did you clean the old stuff off? Did you scrape it with razorblades and use sealant remover also?Mine has a couple of seepage spots, but it's been 40K, and they haven't increased, so I'm not about to worry about it until absolutely necessary. I've also considered the idea of switching to the Subaru sealant - it's used for the same purpose, but is not anaerobic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 I've never had a valve cover leak when using the pink goo, except when I forgot to tighten the valve cover bolts . A trick I use for getting the mating surfaces 100% clean is a hardwood block (walnut, oak, cherry) planned flat and faced with a sheet of 220. Spray the sandpaper with a bit of WD40 and start sanding. The size of the block of wood helps you keep the sandpaper perfectly horizontal to the deck and prevents uneven gouging. You can get a very fine surface RA using this method. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Caller Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 Quick question... taking the fact that the anaerobic OEM pink sealant is almost 100$ here, do you know of any other similar products from Reinz or Liqui Moly / Loctite ? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NitroX5 Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 (edited) Sure, I was in the same boat Here it is: Elring AFD 2018 (Same pink anaerobic stuff)or Victor Reinz 703141410 (blue anaerobic stuff) Edited July 15, 2015 by NitroX5 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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